纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (10): 41-45.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200204705

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于原位力学测试的织物折皱回复性表征

胡霄睿1,2, 孙丰鑫1(), 肖彩勤1, 高卫东1   

  1. 1.生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学), 江苏 无锡 214122
    2.江南大学 设计学院, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2020-02-24 修回日期:2020-04-21 出版日期:2020-10-15 发布日期:2020-10-27
  • 通讯作者: 孙丰鑫
  • 作者简介:胡霄睿(1989—),女,讲师,博士。主要研究方向为纺织材料性能表征与织物视知觉理论研究。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(11802104);国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200);中国博士后基金面上项目(2019M651697);中央高校基本科研业务费资助项目(JUSRP11915);江苏省自然科学基金项目(BK20180589)

Characterization of wrinkle recovery of fabrics based on in-situ mechanical testing

HU Xiaorui1,2, SUN Fengxin1(), XIAO Caiqin1, GAO Weidong1   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. College of Design, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2020-02-24 Revised:2020-04-21 Online:2020-10-15 Published:2020-10-27
  • Contact: SUN Fengxin

RichHTML

6

PDF (PC)

115

摘要：

针对现有基于折皱回复角和外观平整度的织物折皱回复性评价方法在织物品种适应性和评价结果稳定性等方面的缺陷,提出织物折皱回复性的原位力学测试方法。通过解析原位力学测试原理,基于所测的力-位移测试曲线,提取用于表征织物折皱回复性的3个评价指标;并通过与织物折皱回复角变异系数的对比分析,说明原位力学测试方法的可靠性和稳定性好于折皱回复角法;采用相关性分析发现,折皱特征指标和织物折皱回复角在0.01水平下显著相关,表明原位力学测试方法可有效评价织物的折皱回复性能,并基于折皱特征指标构建了织物折皱回复角的多元回归模型,可用于织物折皱回复性能的全面、客观表征。

关键词: 折皱回复性, 力学测试, 评价方法, 折皱回复角, 织物形变

Abstract:

In-situ mechanical testing was proposed to evaluate the wrinkle recovery behaviour of fabrics, aiming to overcome the main shortcomings in the existing wrinkle recovery angle testing method and smoothness appearance method in terms of applicability and stability of the measurement. By interpreting the testing process and principle of in-situ mechanical test, three feature indices were extracted for characterizing wrinkle recovery behaviour of fabrics. The reliability and stability of the mechanical method was proved by comparing the significant coefficients of variation between the featured indices and wrinkle recovery angles at the 0.01 level. The correlation analysis was also carried out, and it is proved that the in-situ mechanical test is an efficient method to assess the wrinkle recovery of fabrics. In addition, multiple regression model is established, which could be useful in the comprehensive evaluation of wrinkle recovery properties objectively.

Key words: wrinkle recovery property, mechanical test, evaluation method, wrinkle recovery angle, fabric deformation

中图分类号: 

  • TS101.8

表1

织物基本规格参数"

试样编号 组织 厚度/mm 面密度/(g·m-2) 成分
1# 平纹 0.21 117 棉/粘
2# 平纹 0.22 121 棉
3# 平纹 0.26 113 棉
4# 平纹 0.25 122 棉
5# 平纹 0.33 126 棉
6# 平纹 0.40 203 涤/棉
7# 斜纹 0.49 223 毛/涤
8# 斜纹 0.76 347 棉
9# 斜纹 0.43 194 涤/棉
10# 斜纹 0.55 256 棉
11# 平纹 0.38 161 棉
12# 平纹 0.26 141 涤/棉
13# 平纹 0.21 136 涤/棉
14# 斜纹 0.42 184 毛/涤
15# 斜纹 0.38 208 棉
16# 斜纹 0.42 229 棉
17# 斜纹 0.49 267 棉
18# 平纹 0.45 258 涤/棉
19# 平纹 0.30 171 棉

图1

织物保形性原位力学测试系统示意图"

图2

原位力学测试过程与主要特征阶段"

图3

原位力学测试系统典型的力-位移曲线"

表2

折皱特征指标与织物折皱回复角测试结果"

试样
编号		 原位力学测试法 折皱回复角法
Dfr/mm Fwr/cN Hfr/cN AWR/(°)
1# 5.6 10.9 4.9 96.1
2# 7.5 15.9 9.1 53.4
3# 7.1 12.1 8.3 76.6
4# 8.2 16.3 12.2 52.1
5# 8.1 21.1 8.9 72.9
6# 5.2 9.9 10.7 87.4
7# 0.1 0.6 0.1 159.7
8# 3.2 7.1 5.7 92.7
9# 5.9 10.5 6.1 85.9
10# 6.5 16.2 11.1 72.4
11# 7.3 10.2 7.1 91.9
12# 6.0 22.7 12.8 63.4
13# 5.3 15.3 7.1 88.0
14# 2.6 4.7 3.7 113.5
15# 7.1 11.8 7.7 65.9
16# 8.2 26.1 18.2 35.9
17# 6.4 21.5 14.4 93.2
18# 5.9 13.3 11.8 74.7
19# 5.3 10.3 7.3 84.6

图4

折皱特征指标和折皱回复角CV值比较"

表3

折皱特征指标与折皱回复角的相关性分析"

指标 Dfr Fwr Hfr AWR
Dfr 1
Fwr 0.760** 1
Hfr 0.702** 0.875** 1
AWR -0.875** -0.773** -0.787** 1
[1] PAN N, HE J H, YU J. Fibrous materials as soft ma-tter[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2007,77(4):205-213.
doi: 10.1177/0040517507076748
[2] SKELTON J. Textile materials: recovery from imposed deformation[J]. Science, 1972,177(4050):657-663.
doi: 10.1126/science.177.4050.657 pmid: 17829148
[3] 刘成霞, 韩永华. 模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(3):56-60.
LIU Chengxia, HAN Yonghua. Measurement for fabric wrinkle resistance by simulating actual wear[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(3):56-60.
[4] 赵娜娜, 丁雪梅. 织物折皱回复性表征方法研究进展[J]. 毛纺科技, 2019,47(8):89-93.
ZHAO Nana, DING Xuemei. Progress on characterization method of fabric wrinkle recovery[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2019,47(8):89-93.
[5] 王蕾, 刘建立, 潘如如, 等. 基于视频序列的织物折皱回复角动态测量[J]. 纺织学报, 2013,34(2):55-60.
WANG Lei, LIU Jianli, PAN Ruru, et al. Dynamic measurement of fabric wrinkle recovery angle by video sequence[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2013,34(2):55-60.
[6] XU B, REED J A. Instrumental evaluation of fabric wrinkle recovery[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute, 1995,86(1):129-135.
doi: 10.1080/00405009508631316
[7] HU J, XIN B, YAN H J. Measuring and modeling 3D wrinkles in fabrics[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2002,72(10):863-869.
doi: 10.1177/004051750207201003
[8] 赵立环, 张杰. 织物折皱回复角与其力学性能指标间的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2013,34(10):39-42.
ZHAO Lihuan, ZHANG Jie. Relationship between fabric's wrinkle recovery angle and mechanical properties[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2013,34(10):39-42.
[9] SUN F, GUO M, HU X, et al. Analysis of curve parameters to characterize multidirectional fabric wrinkling by a double extraction method[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2019,89(15):2973-2982.
doi: 10.1177/0040517518805372
[10] ABRISHAMI S, MOUSAZADEGAN F, EZAZSHABI N. Evaluating the crease recovery performance of woven fabrics considering bending behaviour in various directions[J]. Journal of the Textile Institute, 2019,110:690-699.
doi: 10.1080/00405000.2018.1511229
[11] 高卫东, 孙丰鑫, 王蕾. 一种纺织品保形性测量装置及测量方法: 201810026135.3[P]. 2019-07-27.
GAO Weidong, SUN Fengxin. Textile shape retention measurement device and method: 201810026135.3[P]. 2019-07-27.
[12] LU Y, HU X, SUN F, et al. Determination of optimal system parameters to characterize the wrinkle recovery of fabrics by an integrated shape retention evaluation system[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2020,90(1):91-100.
doi: 10.1177/0040517519858770
[13] BUTLER R H, LAMS G R E, PREVORSK D C. Influence of fiber properties on wrinkling behavior of fabrics: part IV: bending recovery of woven fabrics[J]. Textile Research Journal, 1975; 45(5):426-433.
doi: 10.1177/004051757504500513
[14] JUNG P, GRAY G, ROY R, et al. Scaling law for dynamical hysteresis[J]. Physical Review Letter, 1990,65:1873.
doi: 10.1103/PhysRevLett.65.1873
[1] 李新彤, 高哲, 顾洪阳, 丛洪莲. 针织西服面料的挺括风格研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(11): 53-58.
[2] 苏旭中, 魏艳红, 刘新金, 谢春萍. 纺纱方式对织物抗皱性能及拉伸弹性的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(04): 33-38.
[3] 刘玉萍, 卢业虎, 王来力. 被服系统热舒适性研究进展 [J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(01): 190-196.
[4] 魏艳红, 刘新金, 谢春萍, 苏旭中, 张钟唏. 聚酯长丝/棉复合纱斜纹织物的保形性及服用性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(12): 39-44.
[5] 杨书会 王瑞. 纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(04): 46-49.
[6] 刘成霞 韩永华. 模拟实际着装的织物抗皱性测试方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(03): 56-60.
[7] 黄张秘 周翔 邢志奇 张文龙. 棉织物的聚羧酸无甲醛免烫整理[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(01): 94-99.
[8] 吴雄英 张亚雯 袁志磊. 纺织品电磁屏蔽效能评价标准的现状分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(2): 170-176.
[9] 刘成霞 刘婷. 应用小波分析的服装关节部位抗皱性评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(12): 87-91.
[10] 黄三娇 高卫东 王鸿博. 精纺毛织物结构参数与折皱回复性的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(11): 37-41.
[11] 刘宇 沈一峰 杨雷. 新型无甲醛防皱整理剂BTP400在棉织物上的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(08): 77-82.
[12] 张月 王蕾 刘建立 高卫东. 试验参数对棉织物回复角测试结果的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2015, 36(08): 33-37.
[13] 王蕾 刘建立 潘如如 高卫东. 基于视频序列的织物折皱回复角动态测量[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(2): 55-60.
[14] 赵立环 张杰. 织物折皱回复角与其力学性能指标间的关系[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(10): 39-0.
[15] 刘成霞, 徐晶. 基于图像处理的织物多方向抗皱性测试方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(7): 48-52.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号　 京公网安备11010502044800号
版权所有 © 2021 《纺织学报》编辑部
地址： 北京市朝阳区延静里中街3号主楼6层《纺织学报》杂志社　邮政编码：100025　
电话：010-65017711,65917740　传真：010-65016539　Email:fangzhixuebao@vip.126.com
本系统由北京玛格泰克科技发展有限公司设计开发