纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (09): 70-75.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305806

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

动态调湿控温立体针织物拓扑优化设计

袁鲁宁1,2, 王建萍1,2,3(), 张冰洁1,2, 张宇婷1,2, 姚晓凤1,2   

  1. 1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
    2.东华大学 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051
    3.同济大学 上海国际设计创新研究院, 上海 200092
  • 收稿日期:2021-03-15 修回日期:2021-06-10 出版日期:2021-09-15 发布日期:2021-09-27
  • 通讯作者: 王建萍
  • 作者简介:袁鲁宁(1997—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装先进制造。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点专项(2019YFF0302100);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(2232021G-08);上海市浦江人才计划资助项目(2020PJC001)

Topological optimization design of dynamic moisture and temperature control for three dimensional knitted fabrics

YUAN Luning1,2, WANG Jianping1,2,3(), ZHANG Bingjie1,2, ZHANG Yuting1,2, YAO Xiaofeng1,2   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai International Institute of Design and Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
  • Received:2021-03-15 Revised:2021-06-10 Published:2021-09-15 Online:2021-09-27
  • Contact: WANG Jianping

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摘要：

为研发具有优良动态调湿控温性能的立体针织物,采用双股70 dtex(72 f)的DRYARN®纱线与30 dtex DRYARN®纱线包覆30 dtex氨纶长丝为原料,提出了立体针织物拓扑优化设计方法。通过优化设计各控温单元的排列方式,使控温单元按V字、Y字等斜向错位排列,然后采用单面提花工艺对织物进行局部拉伸与压褶以形成褶皱片状结构。结果表明:当人体流汗时,褶皱片状结构里层吸收汗滴并转移至面层以快速蒸发,当人体感到寒冷时,内部空气通道储藏静止空气有效控温;所制备织物的保温率均大于54%,具有出色的控温性能,整体液态水分传递能力达到3级以上,液态水动态传递性能良好,同时保持优良的拉伸回复性能,为冬季运动保暖内衣用立体针织物的研发提供了新思路。

关键词: 功能性针织物, 调湿控温, 立体针织物, 拓扑几何形态

Abstract:

In order to develop a three-dimensional knitted fabric with excellent dynamic humidity and temperature control, 70 dtex(72 f)×2 DRYARN® and 30 dtex DRYARN® wrapped with a 30 dtex spandex filament were selected as raw materials. The topological optimization design method of three-dimensional knitted fabrics was proposed, where the temperature control units were optimized to be arranged in V-shape, Y-shape and other dislocated arrangement, and a folded sheet structure was created by locally stretching and pleating the fabric by using the single-sided jacquard process. The result show that when the human body is sweating, the inner layer of the folded sheet structure absorbs sweat drops and transfers the moisture to the surface layer for rapid evaporation. When the human body feels cold, the inner air channel stores still air and effectively controls the temperature. The insulation rate of the prepared fabrics is more than 54%, and it has excellent temperature control performance. The overall liquid water transfer capacity is more than grade 3, and the liquid water dynamic transfer performance is good, while maintaining excellent tensile recovery performance. It provides a new idea for the research and development of three-dimensional knitted fabrics for winter thermal sports underwear.

Key words: functional knifted fabric, humidity and temperature control, 3-D knitted fabrics, topological geometry

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.61

图1

褶皱片状结构示意图"

图2

控温单元编织意匠图"

图3

控温单元排列方式示意图"

图4

纤维束SEM照片(×200)"

表1

织物组织规格参数表"

织物编号 纱线种类 控温单元
排列方式		 厚度/
mm		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 密度
面纱 地纱 纵密/(横列·(5 cm)-1) 横密(纵行·(5 cm)-1)
1# 70 dtex(72 f)×2
DRYARN®		 30 dtex
DRYARN®
包覆
30 dtex氨纶		 1 3.15 598 189 98
2# 2 2.43 436 159 91
3# 3 3.05 551 169 93
4# 4 3.53 560 153 107
5# 140 dtex
锦纶		 50 dtex
丙纶包覆
20 dtex
氨纶		 1 2.55 623 203 104
6# 2 2.08 490 162 101
7# 3 2.67 578 177 102
8# 4 3.18 630 159 111

表2

织物保暖性能测试结果"

织物编号 热阻/(m2·K·W-1) 保温率/%
1# 81.72 58.09
2# 71.32 54.74
3# 106.50 64.37
4# 91.31 60.76
5# 66.18 52.89
6# 72.68 55.21
7# 88.58 60.04
8# 81.02 57.88

表3

织物吸湿速干性能测试结果"

织物编号 浸湿时间/s 吸水速率/(%·s-1) 最大浸湿半径/mm 液态水分扩散速率/(mm·s-1) 单向传递指数 液态水动态
传递综合指数
表层 底层 表层 底层 表层 底层 表层 底层
1# 7.22 23.86 64.66 107.15 11.25 15.00 0.86 1.79 364.76 0.72
2# 6.52 20.46 41.60 69.17 11.25 13.75 0.98 0.81 371.71 0.63
3# 6.29 17.96 38.88 79.61 10.00 13.00 1.14 1.19 324.45 0.61
4# 13.00 17.56 39.99 84.38 8.00 11.00 0.89 0.76 455.12 0.65
5# 10.66 24.87 28.18 100.57 8.00 12.00 0.74 0.47 319.77 0.58
6# 5.89 35.20 30.83 103.13 9.17 10.00 0.88 0.34 274.99 0.53
7# 19.14 31.75 27.32 94.34 6.00 10.00 0.72 0.54 352.71 0.54
8# 6.43 20.35 62.38 81.01 10.00 13.00 0.96 0.76 242.30 0.52

表4

织物拉伸回复性能测试结果"

织物编号 拉伸回复率/%
经向 纬向
1# 82.22 90.08
2# 88.30 90.18
3# 87.19 89.90
4# 86.47 88.12
5# 67.42 92.04
6# 83.88 94.61
7# 79.75 94.62
8# 88.29 96.29
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