纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (04): 203-209.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201105507

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数字化服装结构设计技术的研究进展

雷鸽1, 李小辉1,2()   

  1. 1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
    2.东华大学 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051
  • 收稿日期:2020-11-27 修回日期:2021-09-24 出版日期:2022-04-15 发布日期:2022-04-20
  • 通讯作者: 李小辉
  • 作者简介:雷鸽(1997—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为数字化服装结构设计。
  • 基金资助:
    中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232022G-08)

Review of digital pattern-making technology in garment production

LEI Ge1, LI Xiaohui1,2()   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2020-11-27 Revised:2021-09-24 Published:2022-04-15 Online:2022-04-20
  • Contact: LI Xiaohui

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摘要：

为促进数字化结构设计技术在服装制造业中的应用与发展,首先介绍了参数化制版与基于人工智能的二维纸样直接生成方法,以及三维虚拟缝合技术的发展现状;然后系统地概述了包括三维服装自动生成、虚拟立体裁剪、三维基型重建、三维服装模块化重组的虚拟服装模型的设计方法,总结了基于曲面展开的二维纸样获取技术,包括几何展开法、力学展开法以及几何力学相结合的方法。认为数字化服装结构设计技术在简化制版、摆脱经验依赖、实现可视化三维造型与二维平面转化等方面具有巨大潜力;结合人类创新潜能与计算机计算能力,在满足服装个性化与多元化的同时,提高制版准确率、建模精度与效率是未来数字化结构设计的发展方向。

关键词: 服装结构设计, 数字化结构设计, 样板生成, 三维虚拟, 缝合技术, 曲面展开, 参数化制版, 人工智能

Abstract:

To promote the application and development of digital pattern-making technology, this paper starts by introducing the two-dimensional pattern generation technology including parametric design and application of artificial, and three-dimensional virtual suture technology. The methods to generate garment models, including three-dimensional auto-generation, three-dimensional visual draping, three-dimensional reconstruction, and three-dimensional modular reorganization were discussed. Surface development techniques such as geometric development, mechanical development, the combination of geometry and mechanics were summarized. The paper illustrates that the digital garment pattern-making technology has great potential in pattern-making simplification, experience-independence, and the transformation between visual three-dimensional modeling and two-dimensional pattern. The potential development direction of digital pattern-making is to improve pattern accuracy, modeling accuracy and efficiency while satisfying the personalization and diversification of clothing by combining human innovation potential and computer computing power.

Key words: garment pattern-making, digital pattern-marking, pattern generation, three-dimensional virtual, suture technology, surface development, parametric design, artifical intelligence

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.2
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