基于高耐碱高耐氧漂分散染料的涤盖棉织物漂染一浴加工工艺

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20221201701

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为解决涤盖棉织物传统染整工艺流程长、能耗水耗高、生产效率低等问题,使用高耐碱高耐氧漂分散染料构建涤盖棉织物的漂棉染涤一浴一步加工工艺。通过耐碱性和耐氧漂性评价,确定所选用的分散染料在强碱和氧漂条件下的应用稳定性。探究了漂棉染涤一浴工艺中双氧水浓度、漂白阶段保温时间及涤纶染色阶段保温时间对涤盖棉织物棉组分白度值和涤组分K/S值的影响,确定最佳工艺条件为:双氧水质量浓度2 g/L,染色温度130 ℃,保温时间30 min。结果表明,漂棉染涤一浴工艺和传统工艺处理后的涤盖棉织物,棉组分白度值均接近80,涤组分色差值小于1.0,色牢度级别均超过4级,且漂棉染涤一浴工艺加工的涤盖棉织物强力损失更小。漂棉染涤一浴加工工艺可实现涤盖棉织物的短流程清洁加工。

关键词: 分散染料, 涤盖棉织物, 漂白, 染色, 短流程, 漂棉染涤, 一浴加工工艺

Abstract:

Objective The inner cotton component of polyester-covered cotton fabric is soft, comfortable, sweat-permeable and air-permeable, and the outer polyester component is anti-wrinkle and wear-resistant. Polyester-covered cotton fabric is widely used in daily wear, school uniforms, firefighting apparel, sanitation apparel and other fields. However, the conventional processes for bleaching and dyeing polyester-covered cotton fabrics have problems of high consumptions of water and energy, and low production efficiency. This research aims to use a disperse dye with high resistance to alkalis and peroxides to construct a one-bath process for bleaching and dyeing polyester-covered cotton fabrics.

Method The selected disperse dye was evaluated for its resistance to alkalis and peroxides. Experiments were carried out to investigate the influence of hydrogen peroxide concentration, processing time, and processing temperature on the performances of bleaching and dyeing in one bath. The optimal process was defined by monitoring the whiteness of cotton component and the color depth (K/S) value of the polyester component.

Results The synthesized disperse dye was shown to be of high alkali-resistant and high peroxide-resistant type, withstanding dyeing with at 2 g/L NaOH alkali regulator concentration and 5 g/L H₂O₂ (30%) (Tabs.2 and 4). One-bath process for bleaching and dyeing polyester-covered cotton fabrics was designed based on the synthesized disperse dye with high resistance to alkali and peroxide. The influence of H₂O₂ concentrations and temperature maintaining time on the whiteness and K/S value of polyester-covered cotton fabric treated by one-bath dyeing polyester and bleaching cotton process were tested, respectively. Under the conditions of 2 g/L of H₂O₂ (30%) and a temperature maintaining time of 0 min at 100 ℃, the whiteness of the cotton component of the polyester-covered cotton fabric reached 80, almost the same as the whiteness obtained by the conventional process. In addition, the concentration of H₂O₂ (30%) and temperature maintaining time were shown to have no influence on the K/S value of the polyester component (Fig.5). Therefore, the optimal H₂O₂ (30%) concentration was selected to be 2 g/L and the optimal temperature maintaining time 0 min at 100 ℃. In order to further analyze the bleaching and dyeing effect of polyester-covered cotton fabrics under high temperature and high pressure treatment, the influence of processing time on the whiteness and K/S value of polyester-covered cotton fabrics treated with one-bath dyeing polyester and bleaching cotton process were investigated (Fig.7). It was found that the polyester-covered cotton fabrics could be optimally bleached and dyed in one bath under the conditions of 2 g/L of H₂O₂ (30%), 130 ℃ and 30 min. The one-bath process treated polyester-covered cotton fabric lead to a 8% bursting strength loss, showing around CIE whiteness 80 of cotton component and good moisture permeability (Tabs.5 and 6). Meanwhile, the color difference of dyed polyester component treated by the one-bath process and conventional process was lower than 1.0. The dyed polyester component provided by one-bath process had rubbing and washing color fastness of grade 4-5 or above, and sublimation color fastness of grade 4 or above.

Conclusion One-bath process for bleaching cotton component and dyeing polyester component of polyester-covered cotton fabric has been achieved by a disperse dye with high resistances to alkalis and peroxides. The polyester-covered cotton fabrics could be optimally bleached and dyed in one bath under the conditions of 2 g/L of hydrogen peroxide (30%), 130 ℃ and 30 min. Compared with the conventional process, the one-bath process provided a polyester-covered cotton fabric that had less bursting strength loss, a comparable degree of whiteness (around CIE whiteness 80) and an acceptable color difference (ΔE_CMC< 1.0). The polyester-covered cotton fabric processed in one bath had color fastnesses of grade 4 or above. Therefore, the one-bath process of the polyester-covered cotton fabric for bleaching and dyeing has the advantages in shortening process flow, and saving costs in water and energy.

Key words: disperse dye, polyester-covered cotton fabric, bleaching, dyeing, short process, cotton bleaching and polyester dyeing, one-bath process

中图分类号:

TS192.5

王小艳, 马子婷, 许长海. 基于高耐碱高耐氧漂分散染料的涤盖棉织物漂染一浴加工工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(05): 38-45.

WANG Xiaoyan, MA Ziting, XU Changhai. One-bath process for bleaching and dyeing of polyester-covered cotton fabric using disperse dye with high resistance to alkalis and peroxides[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2023, 44(05): 38-45.

图/表 13

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不同碱调节剂下的ΔE_CMC			耐碱类型	等级
CH₃COONa	Na₂CO₃	NaOH	耐碱类型	等级
ΔE_CMC>1.0	-	-	不耐碱	差
ΔE_CMC≤1.0	ΔE_CMC>1.0	-	耐弱碱	中
ΔE_CMC≤1.0	ΔE_CMC≤1.0	ΔE_CMC>1.0	一般耐碱	良
ΔE_CMC≤1.0	ΔE_CMC≤1.0	ΔE_CMC≤1.0	高耐碱	优

染料名称	不同碱调节剂下的ΔE_CMC			耐碱类型	等级
染料名称	CH₃COONa	Na₂CO₃	NaOH	耐碱类型	等级
HAO分散蓝	0.19	0.49	0.55	高耐碱	优
HAO分散红	0.29	0.32	0.34	高耐碱	优
HAO分散黄	0.34	0.52	0.56	高耐碱	优

H₂O₂和NaOH 溶液下的ΔE_CMC	灰卡级别	耐氧漂性	是否可用于漂染一浴工艺
ΔE_CMC>1.0	低于4~5级	差	否
ΔE_CMC≤1.0	不低于4~5级	优	是

染料名称	H₂O₂和NaOH 溶液下的ΔE_CMC	灰卡级别	耐氧漂性	是否可用于漂染一浴工艺
HAO分散蓝	0.88	4~5级	优	是
HAO分散红	0.62	5级	优	是
HAO分散黄	0.82	4~5级	优	是

染料名称	工艺	顶破强力/N	棉组分润湿时间/s	棉组分白度值	涤组分 K/S值	ΔE_CMC
	涤盖棉坯布	1 201	>60	20.30	1.52	—
HAO 分散蓝	传统工艺	1 009	≤1	79.82	25.36	0.65
HAO 分散蓝	漂染一浴工艺	1 106	≤1	78.20	26.15	0.65
HAO 分散红	传统工艺	1 016	≤1	80.35	23.65	0.73
HAO 分散红	漂染一浴工艺	1 098	≤ 1	79.68	24.02	0.73
HAO 分散黄	传统工艺	1 064	≤ 1	78.34	13.41	0.47
HAO 分散黄	漂染一浴工艺	1 115	≤ 1	77.92	13.96	0.47