文胸罩杯透湿率测定新方法

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20221104001

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

针对现行的织物透湿率测试标准和方法较难测定曲面织物和厚度不均匀织物的局限,导致文胸产品缺乏系统的透湿性能测定方法的问题,本文提出一种新型文胸罩杯透湿率的测定方法胸部模型法。首先展开理论探索,获得纯水蒸发率与空气层厚度、倾斜角度、介质种类的关系;再进行算法程序设计和交互页面设计;最后进行设备稳定性测试和与正杯法透湿率测试方法对比实验,完成其综合可行性验证。结果表明:由该新型文胸罩杯透湿率测定方法测定出的不同罩杯透湿率一方面能够表征其透湿性能差异,另一方面变异系数较小,设备稳定性高;并且该方法得出的透湿率与正杯法测出的透湿率存在较高的一致性。综上得出新型文胸罩杯透湿率测定方法是一种理想的测定文胸产品透湿性能方法。

关键词: 透湿率, 文胸, 文胸透湿率测评, 热湿舒适性, 透湿性能

Abstract:

Objective The current testing standards and methods for fabric water vapor permeability are only applicable to sheet fabrics withuniform thickness and flatness, and cannot measure fabrics with curved surfaces and fabrics with uneven thickness, which leads to the lack of systematic water vapor permeability measurement methods for bra products.

Method This paper proposes a method for measuring the water vapor permeability of bra cups to solve the above problems. The main body of the equipment adopts the idea of "differential method", and consists of multiple slender water vapor permeable columns with a ground area of 1 cm×1 cm that continuously change in inclination angles to form a breast model with an arc-shaped evaporation surface. The innovations of the equipment are as follows: 1. the evaporation surface is designed to fit the cup radian more closely; 2. the sodium polyacrylate solution with a mass ratio of m_PNNa∶m_H2O=1∶500 is used instead of the pure water, which approximately eliminates the water vapor resistance of the air layer above the evaporating liquid surface. According to the relationship between the evaporation rate of pure water and the thickness of the air layer, the relationship between the evaporation rate of pure water and the type of medium, the relationship between different concentrations of sodium polyacrylate solution and the obtained the corresponding curve fitting equations were adopted to calculate the corresponding evaporation coefficients K_air, K_angle and K_PNNNa. Then algorithm and program design were carried out and the Visual Basic programming language was adopted to write the model method cup water vapor permeability calculation program. The program realizes the selection of water vapor permeability area, the input of independent variables such as mass and time, and the calculation of water vapor permeability. During the measurement, under the environmental conditions of temperature of 25 ℃, humidity of 30%, and wind speed of 0.4 m/s, the water vapor permeable column covered by the cup sample with approximately m_PNNNa∶m_H2O=1∶500 sodium polyacrylate aqueous solution (keep the air layer height above the liquid level at 2 mm), the cup sample was fixed on the model with gauze to evaporate 6 h, mass the initial mass G₀, evaporation end mass G₁, evaporation time and evaporation area distribution were reoorded, and then input them into the user interface, and the permeability was calculate of by the program. The water vapor permeability of 4 cup samples with different air-ventilation hole areas was and compared the waster vapor permeability of fabrics measured by the upright cup method.

Results The results show that a strong correlation (R>0.6) exists between the water vapor permeability values of different cups measured by the model method and the value of the hole quantity (R>0.6), indicating that the measurement results of the model method proposed can characterize the differences in the water vapor permeability of cups with different hole areas. On the one hand, the cups of each type were measured three times, and the CV values obtained were all less than 6%. It can be seen that the coefficient of variation of the data measured by the model method is small, and the stability of the equipment is high. And the water vapor permeability of cups made of five kinds of fabrics plain cotton, flax, silk, wool and canvas cotton obtained by this method has a high consistency with the water vapor permeability of the corresponding five fabrics measured by the upright cup method (R>0.6).

Conclusion The water vapor permeability measured by the model method can be adopted to characterize the water vapor permeability of bra cups and fabrics. This test method solves the problem that the water vapor permeability of bra products cannot be measured and characterized at present, and can provide method support for the evaluation of the water vapor permeability of bra products for underwear companies, facilitating companies research on the heat and humidity comfort of bras. Enterprises can find out the problems and deficiencies of research and development products through measurement, and reduce the flow of bras that do not meet the water vapor permeability requirements into the market. For consumers,by marking the water vapor permeability performance data of bra products on product details, consumers can be provided with more convincing and objective consumption guidance.

Key words: water vapor permeability, bra, water vapor permeability evaluation of bra, thermal and wet comfort, facilitating permeability

中图分类号:

TS941.17

王兆芳, 张辉, 丁波, 张淼. 文胸罩杯透湿率测定新方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 176-184.

WANG Zhaofang, ZHANG Hui, DING Bo, ZHANG Miao. Novel method for determining water vapor permeability of bra cups[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(01): 176-184.

图/表 19

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表2

聚丙烯酸钠溶液浓度与蒸发率关系"

m_PNNNa∶ $m H 2 O$	现象	蒸发率/ (g·(h·m²)^-1)
1∶100	凝胶状固体,水完全吸收, 倾斜无流动	59.40
1∶200	凝胶状固体,水完全吸收, 倾斜无流动	62.52
1∶300	凝胶状固体,水完全吸收, 倾斜无流动	63.66
1∶400	凝胶状固体,接近完全吸收, 倾斜轻微流动	66.48
1∶500	凝胶状固体,细微渗水, 倾斜有流动感	67.32
1∶600	凝胶状固体,轻微渗水, 倾斜有明显流动感	64.02
1∶700	凝胶状固体,些许渗水, 倾斜流动感较强	66.66
1∶800	水固交融,较多水未吸收, 流动感接近纯水	68.82
1∶900	明显水状,其特性接近蒸馏水	70.32
纯水	蒸馏水,无色透明液体	74.52

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参考文献 16

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空气层厚度/ cm	蒸发率/(g·(h·m²)^-1 )
空气层厚度/ cm	均值	标准差
0.20	99.82	2.29
0.30	94.32	3.51
0.60	84.37	2.37
1.00	81.89	3.33
2.00	79.47	2.08
3.00	78.49	3.35
4.00	73.71	2.17
4.30	72.47	3.28
4.60	72.57	3.01
5.00	71.52	1.80
5.30	69.47	1.54
5.60	68.93	2.08

倾斜角度/ (°)	透湿柱角度/(°)
倾斜角度/ (°)	A	B	C	D	E	F	G	H	I	J	K
1	4.8	18.2	23.5	31.0	38.1	38.7	43.6	45.6	50.7	51.8	46.9
2	17.8	24.3	33.4	35.1	34.1	33.4	41.2	47.4	48.8	55.0	56.4
3	21.8	32.9	33.7	31.5	30.6	31.8	34.9	41.8	51.5	58.5	64.3
4	31.4	38.8	34.4	29.5	28.3	30.2	36.6	41.1	49.8	58.6	65.7
5	35.9	37.2	39.1	25.3	21.8	23.2	29.5	37.3	47.9	57.7	66.8
6	37.2	44.4	33.6	21.1	15.3	16.1	22.4	32.8	46.1	57.3	68.5
7	40.6	40.1	28.4	17.3	7.0	2.3	10.8	29.1	43.7	56.3	69.3
8	38.1	40.4	27.3	16.2	0.5	5.0	8.9	29.1	41.8	55.8	69.3
9	31.5	44.0	33.8	21.1	10.8	13.7	21.0	30.5	45.0	61.0	—
10	18.5	37.5	39.2	30.2	27.7	26.5	28.5	39.6	54.0	70.0	—
11	4.6	21.4	38.9	40.5	37.0	35.8	42.8	52.0	63.5	—	—
12	—	1.70	15.6	38.9	49.5	49.9	56.7	58.6	—	—	—
13	—	7.10	11.6	23.9	37.0	45.1	—	—	—	—	—

编号	组成成分	孔洞直径/ cm	孔洞数量	孔洞面积/ cm²	边缘厚度/mm	中心厚度/ mm
罩杯a	聚醚聚氨酯	2.5	43	211.07	0.8	5
罩杯b	聚醚聚氨酯	3.0	29	204.99	0.8	5
罩杯c	聚醚聚氨酯	3.0	23	162.58	0.8	5
罩杯d	聚醚聚氨酯	—	—	0	0.8	5

编号	透湿率/(g·(h·m²)^-1)	标准差/(g·(h·m²)^-1)	CV值/%
罩杯a	60.78	3.16	5.20
罩杯b	57.88	0.58	1.01
罩杯c	56.70	2.35	4.14
罩杯d	55.70	1.03	1.85

编号	组成成分	织物组织	厚度/ mm	面密度/ (g·m^-2)
1	100%棉	平纹	0.180	88.8
2	100%丝	平纹	0.232	125.5
3	100%麻	平纹	0.298	202.8
4	100%羊毛	平纹	0.521	228.2
5	100%棉	斜纹	0.412	268.5