《宫乐图》中仕女服饰的数字化复原

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20230705901

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

通过数字化手段对古代画作中的人物服饰进行重现可达到简化传统服饰复原流程、节约修复成本等目的。以《宫乐图》中端茶仕女为例探索古代服饰的数字化复原方法论。首先,借助数字化服装制图技术对原画受损部分进行修复,并基于文史资料及服装美学原理,对仕女服款式、结构等信息进行分析和推断;而后,通过数字化制板技术绘制服装样板,运用三维虚拟现实技术对服饰进行数字化还原展示;最后,结合层次分析法及模糊综合评价法构建三层级的评价体系对复原效果进行验证。结果表明,复原后的仕女服不论从服装造型、结构、面料及工艺的还原程度,还是服饰的整体复原效果,其好评占比均达到40%以上,说明本文提出的以古代画作为参考进行的古代服饰数字化复原方法可行,效果满意。

关键词: 宫乐图, 仕女服饰, 数字化复原, 虚拟展示, 多层次模糊综合评价

Abstract:

Objective The traditional process of restoring ancient costumes relies on physical artifacts as a basis, which often leads to cumbersome and time-consuming restoration procedures due to factors such as the condition of cultural relics, restoration processes, and the experience of researchers. The restoration of ancient costumes necessitates broader exploration and the quest for a more scientific methodology to serve as guidance.

Method Taking the tea-serving maiden in the ancient painting of "A Palace Concert" as the subject, a digital approach was adopted to restore the Tang Dynasty women's costumes depicted in the painting. This approach involved painting restoration using digital techniques, inferencing costume styles, sizes and other information through the use of literature and aesthetic principles, sample production using digital pattern-making tools, and virtual costume creation and display using three-dimensional virtual-reality technology. The evaluation system was constructed using the Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) and consists of four primary criteria and eleven secondary criteria. The weights of each criterion were calculated, and the restoration results were evaluated using the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method.

Result A comprehensive evaluation system and criteria for the restoration of women's costumes depicted in the Painting "A Palace Concert" were constructed, including four primary criteria, which were "Overall Styling", "Costume Construction", "Fabric Selection", and "Craftsmanship", as well as eleven secondary criteria to assess the effectiveness of costume restoration. Using the expert assessment method, weights were obtained for both the primary and secondary criteria. The primary criteria assigned 0.243 3 weight to "Overall Styling", 0.378 9 to "Costume Construction", 0.162 3 to "Fabric Selection", and 0.188 0 to "Craftsmanship", among which, "Costume Construction" had the highest weight. The secondary criteria assigned "Costume Bodice" and "Costume Style" with relatively high weights, with values of 0.59 and 0.488 7, respectively. Their comprehensive weights were 0.143 5 and 0.185 2 respectively, indicating that the restoration effectiveness of the costume bodice and style silhouette, which are the main visual perception elements, significantly influence the final restoration outcome of the women's costumes. The virtual restoration results were evaluated for the secondary criteria, and the evaluation degrees of "Very Good", "Good", "Fair", "Poor", and "Very Poor" were obtained for corresponding elements. The evaluation results for the secondary criteria were then integrated and statistically analyzed. It can be observed that all secondary criteria received evaluation degrees of "Very Good" greater than 35%, and there were seven elements "Costume Silhouette", "Costume Sleeves", "Costume Collar", "Fabric Material", "Fabric Color", "Fabric Pattern" and "Piece Seaming" with evaluation degrees greater than 40%. This indicates that the restoration effectiveness for all secondary criteria was rated as "Very Good". Furthermore, the evaluation was recalculated with consideration of weights for the primary indicators and overall restoration effectiveness. All primary indicators were rated as "Very Good", with the breakdown as follows:"Overall Styling" at 40.25%, "Costume Construction" at 41.85%, "Fabric Selection" at 47.68%, and "Craftsmanship" at 42.17%. The final evaluation result for the "Overall Restoration Outcome" was categorized as "Very Good" at 41.32%. These data demonstrated that the restoration of the primary criteria and the overall effect of the Qi-chest Ruqun costume for the tea-serving maiden in the Painting of "A Palace Concert" were highly successful.

Conclusion By using digital techniques for restoration and incorporating literature and other images, combined with the utilization of CLO 3D software, it is possible to achieve digital restoration of ancient women's costumes depicted in the Painting of "A Palace Concert" and provide a viable methodology for exploring the digital restoration of ancient costumes. In terms of evaluation, the "Overall Styling", "Costume Construction", "Fabric Selection", and "Craftsmanship" have varying degrees of impact on the authenticity of virtual costume restoration based on the painting. Among them, the "Costume Bodice" and "Costume Style" have a relatively higher influence, indicating that the overall visual presentation is the most critical factor influencing the effectiveness of costume digital restoration. The final restoration results received evaluations of "Very Good" and "Good," with a combined percentage of over 70%, demonstrating that digital restoration based on ancient paintings can effectively simulate and restore ancient costumes with good visual effects and feasibility.

Key words: painting of "A Palace Concert", women's costume, digital restoration, virtual display, multilevel fuzzy comprehensive evaluation

中图分类号:

TS941

黄智威, 石雅杰, 陆冯, 李青, 薛哲彬. 《宫乐图》中仕女服饰的数字化复原[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(06): 155-164.

HUANG Zhiwei, SHI Yajie, LU Feng, LI Qing, XUE Zhebin. Digital restoration of women's costumes depicted in ancient painting of "A Palace Concert"[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(06): 155-164.

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链接本文: http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/10.13475/j.fzxb.20230705901

http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/Y2024/V45/I06/155

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服饰	颜色	潘通色号
襦	低饱和度、高明度的绿色	SM1-1191
裙、披帛	高饱和度、较高明度的红色	PANTONE 7628 C
系带	低饱和度、高明度的蓝色	COLORO 107-66-11
披帛纹饰	中饱和度、高明度的黄色	NCS S 2040-Y

服装	部位	与身高比例	尺寸/cm
襦	衣长	1∶4	40
	胸围	1∶1.7	96
	袖长	1∶4	40
	袖口宽	1∶8.3	20
裙	裙长	1∶1.11	145
	腰围	1∶1.23	130
	下摆围	1∶0.62	260
披帛	长	1∶1.9	300
披帛	宽	1∶16	10

目标层	标准层	指标层
《宫乐图》仕女数字化复原效果B	整体造型b₁	服装廓形b₁₁ 服装款式b₁₂
	服装构造b₂	服装衣身b₂₁ 服装衣袖b₂₂ 服装领部b₂₃ 服装腋下b₂₄ 服装下摆b₂₅
	服装面料b₃	面料材质b₃₁ 面料颜色b₃₂ 面料图案b₃₃
	制作工艺b₄	布片拼缝b₄₁

标度	定义	内容
1	相同	两项指标重要程度相同
3	略微重要	一项指标较另一项略微重要
5	显著重要	一项指标较另一项显著重要
7	非常重要	一项指标较另一项非常重要
9	至关重要	一项指标较另一项至关重要
2、4、6、8		介于相邻标度之间
倒数	若因素i与因素j之间的重要性之比为a_ij,那么因素j与因素i重要性之比为a_ji=1/a_ij

一级指标	权重	二级指标	权重	综合权重
整体造型	0.243 3	服装廓形	0.41	0.099 7
整体造型	0.243 3	服装款式	0.59	0.143 5
服装构造	0.378 9	服装衣身	0.488 7	0.185 2
		服装衣袖	0.136 8	0.051 8
		服装领部	0.162 9	0.061 7
		服装腋下	0.075 8	0.028 7
		服装下摆	0.135 7	0.051 4
服装面料	0.162 3	面料材质	0.462 3	0.075 0
		面料颜色	0.202 9	0.032 9
		面料图案	0.334 7	0.054 3
制作工艺	0.188 0	布片拼缝	1	0.188 0