横编全成形袜子工艺设计与编织原理

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180608307

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (07): 44-50.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180608307

横编全成形袜子工艺设计与编织原理

王盼, 吴志明()

江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏无锡 214122

收稿日期:2018-06-29 修回日期:2019-04-08 出版日期:2019-07-15 发布日期:2019-07-25
通讯作者: 吴志明
作者简介:王盼(1991-),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为全成形产品编织工艺。
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题资助项目(2018-28)

Process design and knitting principle of whole socks on flat knitting machine

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming()

Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China

Received:2018-06-29 Revised:2019-04-08 Online:2019-07-15 Published:2019-07-25
Contact: WU Zhiming

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

针对传统袜子下机需套口缝合、生产成本高的问题,采用双针床电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX3设计系统,从花型设计、工艺参数以及编织工艺3方面对全成形袜子进行研究。根据袜头成形结构不同,提出普通包趾袜、五趾袜、内五趾袜的全成形袜子分类方法,分别探讨了全成形袜子各部段的编织工艺,其中对3种袜头编织工艺进行重点探讨。研究表明:袜头采用局部编织工艺实现圆弧状和内五指袜趾间隔片编织;在袜脚、袜筒编织过程,通过收放针工艺实现圆筒的横向尺寸变化;袜跟在引返编织同时进行收放针,以形成梯形袋状结构;袜口采用罗纹组织并插入弹性纱以防穿着时下滑,并采用平收工艺对袜口进行最后处理。

关键词: 横编, 全成形袜子, 工艺设计, 编织原理

Abstract:

In order to solve artificial sewing and high production costs required by conventional socks, the V-bed computerized flat knitting machine and SDS-ONE APPEX3 design system was adopted to study the whole socks from pattern design, process parameters and knitting process. According to the sox head structure, the whole socks in common socks, toe socks and inner toe socks were proposed. The knitting technology of every part of whole socks was discussed. Three kinds of sox head knitting technology were discussed emphatically. It is found that sox head adopts partial technology to realize the circular shape and spacer knitting of inner toe socks. During the knitting process of sox foot and tube, the horizontal dimension change of the cylinder can be realized by the narrowing and widening process. The sox heel forms a trapezoidal bag structure by partial technology and narrowing and widening process. The sox mouth adopts a rib structure and inserts elastic yarn to prevent slipping when wearing. The final treatment of sox mouth adopts a press-off process.

Key words: flat knitting, whole socks, process design, knitting principle

中图分类号:

TS941.3

王盼, 吴志明. 横编全成形袜子工艺设计与编织原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(07): 44-50.

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming. Process design and knitting principle of whole socks on flat knitting machine[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(07): 44-50.

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编织宽度/ cm	面压值/(N·cm^-2)
编织宽度/ cm	SWG061N2	SWG091N2
60	10	4~5
40	7~9	3~4
30	7~9	1~2
20	1	1
10	1	1
<10	1	1

横编全成形袜子工艺设计与编织原理

Process design and knitting principle of whole socks on flat knitting machine

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