纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (09): 128-135.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803008

• 染整与化学品 • 上一篇    下一篇

用超高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测-串联质谱法分析畲族服饰中蓝色染料

闫晶1,2, 张寻1, 雷光振3, 范雪荣1()   

  1. 1.江南大学 纺织服装学院, 江苏 无锡 214122
    2.浙江农林大学 设计艺术学院, 浙江 临安 311300
    3.中国畲族博物馆, 浙江 景宁 323500
  • 收稿日期:2018-08-13 修回日期:2018-12-23 出版日期:2019-09-15 发布日期:2019-09-23
  • 通讯作者: 范雪荣
  • 作者简介:闫晶(1979—), 女, 副教授, 博士生。 主要研究方向为畲族服饰文化及技艺。
  • 基金资助:
    浙江省高校重大人文社科攻关计划项目(2014QN028)

Analysis on blue dyes in She costumes by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-tandem mass spectrometry

YAN Jing1,2, ZHANG Xun1, LEI Guangzhen3, FAN Xuerong1()   

  1. 1. School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. School of Art Design, Zhejiang A & F University, Lin'an, Zhejiang 311300, China
    3. Chinese She Museum, Jingning, Zhejiang 323500, China
  • Received:2018-08-13 Revised:2018-12-23 Online:2019-09-15 Published:2019-09-23
  • Contact: FAN Xuerong

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摘要：

为鉴别畲族传统服饰中的蓝色染料成分,运用超高效液相色谱-光电二极管阵列检测-串联四极杆飞行时间质谱分析了4件畲族服饰文物中的染料。通过对染料萃取液的超高效液相色谱分离,结合高分辨率飞行时间质谱数据和二极管阵列检测器采集的紫外-可见光谱数据,以保留时间、化合物精确分子离子质量及紫外-可见吸收光谱对染料进行定性分析。结果显示蓝色系样品均由靛蓝色素染成。结合文物背景可知:清末时丽水地区可能兼有天然靛蓝和合成靛蓝染料;民国时期景宁地区合成靛蓝染色纱线可能已进入民间;新中国成立后景宁地区畲族仍在使用天然靛蓝染料。

关键词: 畲族服饰, 天然靛蓝, 鉴别, 超高效液相色谱, 二极管阵列检测, 串联质谱法

Abstract:

In order to identify blue dye components of the She costume, four historical textiles in the Chinese She Museum were characterized by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry. By means of separation of extractive solution by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography, the qualitative analysis of dyestuff was carried out according to the retention time, the exact molecular mass of the compound and the UV-visible absorption spectrum, from high resolution time-of-flight mass spectrometry data and spectral data collected by diode array detector. The results show that all the blue samples are dyed by indigo blue. According to the background of these cultural relics, the natural indigo and synthetic indigo dyes are probably both used in Lishui area at the end of the Qing Dynasty. The synthetic indigo dyed yarn might be introduced to She people in Jingning area in the early 20th century. The natural indigo dye is still used by She people in Jingning after the founding of the People's Republic of China.

Key words: She costume, natural indigo, identification, ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography, diode array detection, tandem mass spectrometry

中图分类号: 

  • TS193

图1

测试样品"

表1

梯度洗脱体系"

时间/min 体积分数/%
A B
初始 2.00 98.00
0.10 2.00 98.00
8.00 40.00 60.00
10.00 80.00 20.00
12.00 100.00 0.00
12.10 2.00 98.00

图2

各标准品超高效液相色谱图"

图3

各标准品特征色谱峰不同保留时间所对应的二级质谱图"

图4

各标准品的紫外-可见吸收光谱"

图5

1号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图6

1号样品4.36 min处组分的二级质谱图"

图7

1号样品 4.29 min处组分的紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

图8

2号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图9

2号样品二级质谱图"

图10

2号样品紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

图11

3号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图12

3号样品4.36 min处组分的二级质谱图"

图13

3号样品 4.29 min处组分的紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

图14

4号样品超高效液相色谱图"

图15

4号样品二级质谱图"

图16

4号样品紫外-可见吸收光谱图"

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