三通道数码纺混色纱色谱体系构建及其彩色纱性能分析

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180906808

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (09): 48-55.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180906808

三通道数码纺混色纱色谱体系构建及其彩色纱性能分析

张婷婷¹, 薛元¹(), 徐志武², 于健², 陈连光²

1.生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学), 江苏无锡 214122
2.巢湖雅戈尔色纺科技有限公司, 安徽合肥 253000

收稿日期:2018-09-27 修回日期:2019-06-03 出版日期:2019-09-15 发布日期:2019-09-23
通讯作者: 薛元
作者简介:张婷婷(1994—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为数字化纺纱。
基金资助:
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(JUSRP5163A);江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目(PPZY2015B147);江苏省高校优势学科建设工程资助项目(苏政办发[2014]37号)

Color system construction of three-channel digital spinning mixed color yarn and performance analysis of colored yarn

ZHANG Tingting¹, XUE Yuan¹(), XU Zhiwu², YU Jian², CHEN Lianguang²

1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
2. Chaohu Youngor Color Spinning Technology Co., Ltd., Hefei, Anhui 253000, China

Received:2018-09-27 Revised:2019-06-03 Online:2019-09-15 Published:2019-09-23
Contact: XUE Yuan

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为研究色纺过程中彩色纤维的显色效应,设计色纺纱的混合模式并对混合效应进行预测。以三通道环锭数码纺纱机为平台,研究以青色(C)、品红(M)、黄色(Y)、黑色(K)、白色(W)5种颜色为粗纱基础色,通过单通道、双通道和三通道这3种混纺模式及梯度调控色纺纱在色相、明度与饱和度变化的机制,构建CMYKW五基色混色色谱体系;基于五基色混色色谱,优化设计红、黄、青三基色明度及饱和度梯度变化的混色纱外观,以此为依据设计纺纱工艺并生产6种明度与饱和度梯度变化的混色纱;测试此混色纱的强力、条干和毛羽,分析不同混纺比对数码混色纱在强力、条干及毛羽的影响。结果表明:完整的色谱体系可直观快速得到目标颜色的CMYK值,提高打样效率;随着混纺比差异增大,混色纱的条干、断裂功与强力的恶化越严重,有益毛羽会减少并且有害毛羽会增多。

关键词: 数码环锭纺, 数控混色, 混色纱色谱体系, 纱线性能

Abstract:

In order to study the color development effect of colored fibers in the color spinning process, the mixing mode of the mixed color spinning was designed and the mixing effect was predicted. Using the three-channel ring digital spinning machine as the platform, the five primary colors of cyan (C), magenta (M), yellow (Y), black (K) and white (W) were used as the primary color of the roving, and the hue, brightness and color of the color spinning were controlled by different mixed color spinning modes such as single channel, double channel and three channels. The mechanism of saturation gradient change was adopted to construct a mixed color chromatography system of CMYKW five primary fiber. The appearance of the mixed color yarns with red, yellow and cyan primary color brightness and saturation gradient was designed. Based on this, the spinning process was designed and six kinds of mixed color yarns with brightness and saturation gradient changes were produced. The strength, strip and hairiness of the six types of mixed yarns were tested, and the effects of the blending of the color fibers on the strength, the stem and the hairiness of the three-channel digital mixed yarn were analyzed. The results show that the complete chromatographic system can obtain the CMYK value of the target color intuitively and quickly, and improve the proofing efficiency of the color yarn. As the difference in blending ratio increases, the drying, breaking work and strength deterioration of the mixed yarn will be more serious, the beneficial hairiness will be reduced and the harmful hairiness will increase.

Key words: digital ring spinning, digital control color mixing, mixed yarn color system, yarn performance

中图分类号:

TS104.1

张婷婷, 薛元, 徐志武, 于健, 陈连光. 三通道数码纺混色纱色谱体系构建及其彩色纱性能分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(09): 48-55.

ZHANG Tingting, XUE Yuan, XU Zhiwu, YU Jian, CHEN Lianguang. Color system construction of three-channel digital spinning mixed color yarn and performance analysis of colored yarn[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(09): 48-55.

图/表 21

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双基色混纺比模型"

基色	双混色									基色
A	$a 1$	$a 2$	$a 3$	$a 4$	$a 5$	$a 6$	$a 7$	$a 8$	$a 9$	B

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参考文献 10

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模式编号	C	M	Y	K	W
S1	100	0	0	0	0
S2	0	100	0	0	0
S3	0	0	100	0	0
S4	0	0	0	100	0
S5	0	0	0	0	100

模式编号	喂入通道1	喂入通道2	模式编号	喂入通道1	喂入通道2
D₁	M	Y	D₆	W	C
D₂	M	C	D₇	K	M
D₃	Y	C	D₈	K	Y
D₄	W	M	D₉	K	C
D₅	W	Y	D₁₀	K	W

模式编号	喂入通道1	喂入通道2	喂入通道3	模式编号	喂入通道1	喂入通道2	喂入通道3
T₁	M	Y	C	T₇	M	Y	K
T₂	M	C	Y	T₈	M	C	K
T₃	C	Y	M	T₉	C	Y	K
T₄	M	Y	W	T₁₀	K	W	M
T₅	M	C	W	T₁₁	K	W	Y
T₆	C	Y	W	T₁₂	K	W	C

细纱编号	粗纱混纺比	A粗纱牵伸比
细纱编号	粗纱混纺比	E_z	E_h	E_q	E_z	E_h	E_q
1	10:90	221.27	10.8	20.49	24.59	1.2	20.49
2	20:80	110.63	4.8	23.05	27.66	1.2	23.05
3	30:70	73.76	2.8	26.34	31.61	1.2	26.34
4	40:60	55.32	1.8	30.73	36.88	1.2	30.73
5	50:50	44.25	1.2	36.88	44.25	1.2	36.88
6	60:40	36.88	1.2	30.73	55.32	1.8	30.73
7	70:30	31.61	1.2	26.34	73.76	2.8	26.34
8	80:20	27.66	1.2	23.05	110.63	4.8	23.05
9	90:10	24.59	1.2	20.49	221.27	10.8	20.49

编号	红青混纺比	条干 CV值/%	纱疵/(个·m^-1)
编号	红青混纺比	条干 CV值/%	细节	粗节	棉结
1	1:9	15.99	0.0	9.0	5.5
2	2:8	14.75	0.0	7.5	5.0
3	3:7	14.02	0.5	5.0	4.5
4	4:6	13.71	0.0	6.0	5.0
5	5:5	12.58	0.0	1.5	2.0
6	6:4	13.23	0.0	4.5	3.5
7	7:3	14.39	0.0	7.5	3.5
8	8:2	15.02	1.5	7.0	4.0
9	9:1	15.39	0.5	8.0	4.5
10	10:0	12.02	0.0	1.0	2.0

三通道数码纺混色纱色谱体系构建及其彩色纱性能分析

Color system construction of three-channel digital spinning mixed color yarn and performance analysis of colored yarn

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编号	红与青质量混比	伸长率/ %	断裂功/ (cN·cm^-1)	强度/ (cN·tex^-1)
1	1:9	5.2	644.7	16.9
2	2:8	6.4	689.1	17.3
3	3:7	6.8	729.1	18.2
4	4:6	7.3	738.7	19.8
5	5:5	7.8	758.5	21.9
6	6:4	6.9	728.1	18.9
7	7:3	6.7	711.6	18.5
8	8:2	5.6	688.4	17.5
9	9:1	4.8	649.8	16.7
10	10:0	8.9	768.7	23.7

混纺比	S₁₊₂	S₃	混纺比	S₁₊₂	S₃
1:9	7 423.3	459.9	6:4	8 443.3	379.9
2:8	8 046.7	509.9	7:3	8 213.3	386.6
3:7	9 030.1	493.3	8:2	7 763.3	473.3
4:6	8 183.3	356.7	9:1	7 011.2	359.9
5:5	8 444.0	390.3	10:0	8 153.3	195.1

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