纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (10): 73-78.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104106

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形毛衫横向编织方式及其成形工艺

王盼, 吴志明()   

  1. 江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2018-11-15 修回日期:2019-06-26 出版日期:2019-10-15 发布日期:2019-10-23
  • 通讯作者: 吴志明
  • 作者简介:王盼(1991—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为全成形产品编织工艺。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题项目(2018-28)

Transverse knitting method and forming process of fully formed sweater

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-11-15 Revised:2019-06-26 Online:2019-10-15 Published:2019-10-23
  • Contact: WU Zhiming

RichHTML

6

PDF (PC)

127

摘要：

为促进全成形毛衫的设计与开发,以四针床电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统为依托,采用实例分析法和实验法,对全成形毛衫横向编织的成形规律进行研究。根据全成形横向编织的特点与优势,选取3个最适宜款式为研究实例,对其工艺设计方法及成形原理进行分析,并通过上机编织实物验证了理论的可行性。结果表明:采用横向编织时,上下装侧缝起底、平收类型要保持一致;编织上装时,可大幅度增加袖子和大身的横向尺寸,实现宽松、随意效果,可通过袖身连同编织和肩部打摺处理,形成蝙蝠袖款式;编织下装时,可在下摆处执行多织来快速拉大腰部与下摆的差量,形成波浪效果。

关键词: 针织技术, 全成形毛衫, 横向编织方式, 成形工艺, 四针床电脑横机

Abstract:

In order to promote the design and development of fully formed sweater, the forming rule of fully formed sweater was studied by means of case analysis and experimentation on the basis of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3. According to the characteristics and advantages of full-formed transverse knitting, three most suitable styles were selected as research examples, and their process design methods and forming principles were analyzed. The feasibility of the theory was verified by the actual weaving on the machine. The results show that when the transverse knitting is adopted, both sides seam types of separates should be kept the same. When knitting upper garments, the lateral dimensions of sleeves and body can be greatly increased to achieve relaxed and random effects, and bat sleeves can be formed by sleeves and body knitting together and shoulder folding. When knitting lower garment, multi-weaving can be carried out at the hem to quickly increase the difference between waist and hem to form the wave effect.

Key words: knitting technology, fully formed sweater, transverse knitting method, forming process, four-bed computerized flat knitting machine

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.64

图1

横向编织成形方式"

图2

横向编织毛衫主要款式"

图3

J、S曲线的4种排列形式及对领部的处理"

图4

蝙蝠袖开衫基础样板及关键部位 1—后中心长; 2—腋下长; 3—后领宽; 4—肩宽; 5—胸宽;6—从肩到腋下之间宽; 7—小肩宽; 8—袖口长; 9—上臂长; 10—袖下长; 11—袖口宽; 12—下摆长。"

图5

含洞腰带与裙腰衬带示意图"

图6

宽松款套头衫示意图"

图7

蝙蝠袖开衫示意图"

图8

喇叭裙示意图"

[1] 王敏. 四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(4):62-63.
WANG Min. Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(4):62-63.
[2] 彭佳佳, 蒋高明, 卢致文, 等. 全成形毛衫在双针床电脑横机上的编织工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2015,36(11):53-54.
PENG Jiajia, JIANG Gaoming, LU Zhiwen, et al. Technical study of whole garment on V-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2015,36(11):53-54.
[3] 邱庄岩, 吴志明, 蒋高明. 全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2018,39(3):56-60,66.
QIU Zhuangyan, WU Zhiming, JIANG Gaoming. Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[4] 彭佳佳, 蒋高明, 丛洪莲, 等. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(11):48-55.
PENG Jiajia, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian, et al. Structure and knitting principle of whole garment[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(11):48-55.
[5] 王敏. 四针床电脑横机全成形技术研究进展[J]. 纺织导报, 2016(9):96-100.
WANG Min. Recent research development on fully fashioned knitting technology of four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine[J]. China Textile Leader, 2016(9):96-100.
[6] 祝细. 电脑横机织可穿针织服装的编织工艺及其性能研究[D]. 天津:天津工业大学, 2011: 5-6.
ZHU Xi. Research of the knitting process and performance for knit&wear clothes on the domestic computerized flat knitting[D]. Tianjin: Tianjin Polytechnic University, 2011: 5-6.
[7] 黄林初. 国产电脑横机织可穿产品的编织研究[D]. 天津:天津工业大学, 2013: 10-12.
HUANG Linchu. Research of the knit & wear technology on the domestic computerized flat knitting machine[D]. Tianjin: Tianjin Polytechnic University, 2013: 10-12.
[8] 杨卫平. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织工艺研究[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2016: 22-29.
YANG Weiping. Investigation on structure and knitting technology of fully fashioned sweater[D]. Shanghai:Donghua University, 2016: 22-29.
[9] 罗璇, 蒋高明, 丛洪莲. 采用局部编织技术的毛衫特殊结构工艺与设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2016,37(2):55-60.
LUO Xuan, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian. Process and design of woolen sweater special structure based on partial technology[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2016,37(2):55-60.
doi: 10.1177/004051756703700106
[10] 丛洪莲, 王迪. 针织毛衫袖型建模与工艺实现[J]. 纺织学报, 2014,35(8):70-74.
CONG Honglian, WANG Di. Modeling and technology realization of knitted sweater sleeve type[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2014,35(8):70-74.
[11] CHOI W, POWELL N B. The development of specialized knitted structures in the creation of resistdyed fabrics and garments[J]. Journal of The Textile Institute, 2008,99(3):253-264.
doi: 10.1080/00405000701404247
[1] 刘博, 丛洪莲. 全成形西服横向编织技术的工艺模型与实现[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(07): 53-58.
[2] 刘博, 丛洪莲. 四针床全成形休闲西服的工艺设计与成形原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(04): 129-134.
[3] 李珂, 吴志明. 基于收针工艺的全成形毛衫分割线设计原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(06): 85-90.
[4] 王盼, 吴志明. 全成形毛衫局部编织原理及其应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(05): 41-46.
[5] 路丽莎, 蒋高明, 罗璇. 全成形毛衫腋下拼角编织工艺及性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(02): 69-75.
[6] 邱庄岩 花芬 吴志明. 四针床全成形编织工艺及其应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(08): 63-70.
[7] 罗璇 彭佳佳 蒋高明 丛洪莲. 全成形毛衫样板设计及成形方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(07): 105-110.
[8] 邱庄岩 吴志明 蒋高明. 全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(03): 56-60.
[9] 蒋高明 高哲. 针织新技术发展现状与趋势[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(12): 169-176.
[10] 彭佳佳 蒋高明 丛洪莲 王敏. 全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(11): 48-55.
[11] 王敏 丛洪莲 蒋高明 彭佳佳. 四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(04): 61-67.
[12] 罗璇 蒋高明 丛洪莲. 采用局部编织技术的毛衫特殊结构工艺与设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(2): 55-60.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号　 京公网安备11010502044800号
版权所有 © 2021 《纺织学报》编辑部
地址： 北京市朝阳区延静里中街3号主楼6层《纺织学报》杂志社　邮政编码：100025　
电话：010-65017711,65917740　传真：010-65016539　Email:fangzhixuebao@vip.126.com
本系统由北京玛格泰克科技发展有限公司设计开发