柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱及其织物性能

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181000708

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (10): 48-55.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181000708

柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱及其织物性能

许多¹, 卫江², 梅剑香², 张心伶³, 张又青⁴, 徐卫林¹, 刘可帅¹()

1.武汉纺织大学新型纺织材料绿色加工及其功能化教育部重点实验室, 湖北武汉 430073
2.武汉裕大华纺织服装集团有限公司, 湖北武汉 430415
3.湖北省纤维检验局, 湖北武汉 433100
4.香港德永佳集团有限公司, 广东东莞 523138

收稿日期:2018-10-08 修回日期:2019-05-14 出版日期:2019-10-15 发布日期:2019-10-23
通讯作者: 刘可帅
作者简介:许多(1996—),男,硕士生。主要研究方向为新型纺纱技术。
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金项目(51403161);国家杰出青年科学基金项目(51325306)

Properties of soft-spun viscose hard-twist yarn and fabric thereof

XU Duo¹, WEI Jiang², MEI Jianxiang², ZHANG Xinling³, ZHANG Youqing⁴, XU Weilin¹, LIU Keshuai¹()

1. Key Laboratory of Green Processing and Functional Textiles of New Textile Materials, Ministry of Education, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
2. Wuhan Yudahua Textile and Garment Co., Ltd., Wuhan, Hubei 430415, China
3. Hubei Fiber Inspection Bureau, Wuhan, Hubei 433100, China
4. Texwinca Holdings Co., Ltd., Dongguan, Guangdong 523138, China

Received:2018-10-08 Revised:2019-05-14 Online:2019-10-15 Published:2019-10-23
Contact: LIU Keshuai

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为更好地探究柔洁纺技术对粘胶强捻纱质量和其机织物服用性能的影响,对相同工艺参数下粘胶强捻柔洁纺纱线与环锭纺纱线的均匀度、毛羽、单纱强力、捻缩率和表观结构进行测试对比,同时分析了相同规格柔洁纺和环锭纺粘胶强捻纱织物的强伸性、顶破性能、撕破性能、透气透湿性、吸湿性、柔软性和抗起毛起球性能。结果表明:柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱的毛羽少,条干均匀,强力高,捻缩率低;相比环锭纺粘胶强捻纱织物,柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱机织物的强伸性、顶破性能、撕破性能、透气透湿性、柔软性和抗起毛起球性显著提高,但吸湿性有所降低;柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱具有柔顺、整洁、牢固等特点,其机织物的综合服用性能优于环锭纺。

关键词: 柔洁纺, 粘胶, 强捻纱, 纱线性能, 织物性能

Abstract:

In order to better explore the improvement of the viscose hard twist yarn and the wearability of its woven fabrics, yarn uniformity, hairiness, yarn strength, contraction rate and apparent structure of soft-spun and ring-spun viscose hard twist yarn were tested and compared under the same process parameters. The strength, bursting properties, tearing properties, air permeability, moisture permeability, softness and pilling resistance of the same specifications of soft-spun and ring-spun viscose fabrics were tested. The results show that the soft-spun viscose hard twist yarn has less hairiness, uniform strips, high strength and low contraction rate. Moreover, compared with the spun viscose fabrics, the soft-spun viscose woven fabric has significantly improved in tensile strength, bursting performance, tearing property, air permeability and moisture permeability, softness and pilling resistance, but the hygroscopicity is lowered. The soft-spun viscose hard twist yarn has the characteristics of smoothness, neatness and firmness, and the comprehensive wearability of the soft-spun fabric is superior to that of the ring-spun one.

Key words: soft spinning, viscose, hard twist yarn, yarn property, fabric property

中图分类号:

TS104

许多, 卫江, 梅剑香, 张心伶, 张又青, 徐卫林, 刘可帅. 柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱及其织物性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(10): 48-55.

XU Duo, WEI Jiang, MEI Jianxiang, ZHANG Xinling, ZHANG Youqing, XU Weilin, LIU Keshuai. Properties of soft-spun viscose hard-twist yarn and fabric thereof[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(10): 48-55.

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试样纺纱方式	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	经密/(根·(10 cm)^-1)		捻度/ (捻·(10 cm)^-1)
试样纺纱方式	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	经向	纬向	捻度/ (捻·(10 cm)^-1)
环锭纺	103	180	221	150
柔洁纺	105	182	222	150

名称	纺纱方法	3 mm毛羽根数	3 mm毛羽 CV值/%	断裂强力/cN	断裂伸长率/%	断裂强力 CV值/%	条干 CV值/%	+140%棉结/ (个·km^-1)	+200%棉结/ (个·km^-1)
管纱	环锭纺	80.28	61.17	283.51	11.59	9.51	12.11	195	55
管纱	柔洁纺	20.94	126.52	310.52	12.89	9.75	11.31	101	25
筒纱	环锭纺	92.83	13.98	279.23	11.81	6.50	12.11	240	70
筒纱	柔洁纺	46.17	32.14	297.04	12.11	8.32	11.59	122	35

织物纺纱方式	纬向拉伸强力/N	伸长率/%	断裂时间/ s	经向撕裂强力/N	顶破强力/ N	预破伸长率/%	顶破时间/ s
环锭纺	99.3	11.30	6.79	18.32	286.43	60.63	24.21
柔洁纺	105.8	13.90	8.36	20.15	313.92	60.94	24.34

织物纺纱方式	伸出长度/mm	弯曲长度/mm	弯曲刚度/ (cN·cm)	厚度/ mm
环锭纺	18.20	9.10	7.61×10^-5	0.24
柔洁纺	16.06	8.03	4.28×10^-5	0.23

柔洁纺粘胶强捻纱及其织物性能

Properties of soft-spun viscose hard-twist yarn and fabric thereof

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