纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (10): 152-157.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181100706

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

体表形态凸角对腰围间隙量的影响

应欣1, 程碧莲1, 刘正1,2,3(), 邹奉元1,2,3   

  1. 1.浙江理工大学 服装学院, 浙江 杭州 310018
    2.丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室, 浙江 杭州 310018
    3.浙江省服装工程技术研究中心, 浙江 杭州 310018
  • 收稿日期:2018-11-02 修回日期:2019-06-26 出版日期:2019-10-15 发布日期:2019-10-23
  • 通讯作者: 刘正
  • 作者简介:应欣(1996—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装数字化技术。
  • 基金资助:
    浙江省自然科学基金项目(Y15E050106)

Influence of body surface convex angle on waist section ease

YING Xin1, CHENG Bilian1, LIU Zheng1,2,3(), ZOU Fengyuan1,2,3   

  1. 1. School of Fashion Design Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    3. Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2018-11-02 Revised:2019-06-26 Online:2019-10-15 Published:2019-10-23
  • Contact: LIU Zheng

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摘要：

为揭示人体形态凸角对腰部间隙量分布的影响,通过在补正的标准体型人台上依次穿着差异松量的同款服装,利用[TC]2三维扫描仪和Geomagic软件采集分析着装间隙量数据与特征。通过计算人体法线到服装的距离确定着装腰部间隙量值,分析差异松量下人体体表胸突角和背入角对腰部间隙量分布的影响。实验结果显示:对于放松量在4 cm以下的紧身服装,体表凸角与腰部间隙量呈弱相关关系;对于放松量在6~12 cm的合体服装,胸突角在120°区域、背入角在0°~30°区域,对腰部间隙量分布影响最大;对于放松量大于16 cm的宽松服装,胸突角与腰部间隙量的分布无相关关系,背入角与间隙量分布呈显著性相关关系;回归方程的拟合优度总体较好,30°区域和120°区域回归方程的R2值达到0.95以上。

关键词: 间隙量, 体表形态凸角, 放松量, 腰围截面

Abstract:

In order to reveal the influence of the body surface convex angle on the waist section ease distribution, by wearing the same clothes with various ease on the standard body shape table, the data and characteristics of the clothing ease amount were collected and analyzed by a [TC]2 3-D body scanner and Geomagic software. By calculating the distance from the normal direction of the body surface point, the waist ease value was determined. Then the influence of chest convex angle and back slope angle on the amount of waist section ease under different ease was investigated. The results show that for tight clothing with the ease below 4 cm, the body surface convex angle is weakly related to the amount of waist ease. For the combined clothing with the ease of 6-12 cm, the chest convex angle at 120° region and the back slope angle at 0°-30° region have the greatest influence on the waist ease amount distribution. For loose clothing with the ease more than 16 cm, no correlation exists between the ease amount distribution and the chest convex angle, while a significant correlation exists between the back slope angle and the ease amount distribution. The fit goodness of the regression equation is well, and the R2 value of 30° region and 120° region regression equation is above 0.95.

Key words: ease allowance, body surface convex angle, ease, waist section

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.2

图1

胸突角和背入角 注:α为胸突角; β为 背入角。"

图2

实验人台"

图3

胸突角测量"

表1

胸突角规格参数表"

X1 X2 X3 X4 X5 X6 X7
14.0 24.5 26.5 28.0 28.1 31.2 33.4

表2

样衣规格表"

样衣编号 胸围B/cm 腰围W/cm 臀围H/cm
1# 86 70 86
2# 90 74 90
3# 92 76 92
4# 94 78 94
5# 96 80 96
6# 100 86 100
7# 103 89 103
8# 106 92 106

图4

着装前后人台衣身"

图5

人体法线与服装交点"

图6

腰截面间隙量示意图"

图7

不同胸突角腰围截面图"

图8

不同背入角的腰围截面图"

图9

不同胸突角规格的腰截面间隙量分布图"

表3

不同角度处间隙量的回归方程"

角度/(°) 回归方程 R2值
0 y=1.019x-4.31α+12.13β+0.277 0.935
30 y=1.021x-6.724α+8.632β-0.897 0.968
60 y=0.907x-5.398α+6.954β+1.12 0.776
120 y=1.371x+8.76α-5.381β-0.32 0.979
150 y=0.312x+6.037α-3.768β-0.75 0.879
180 y=0.899x+5.71α-6.018β+1.03 0.907
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