面料及运动速度对连衣裙三围形态的影响

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604507

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为研究不同面料和运动速度对服装造型的影响规律,选取身材相似的3名受试者和5种常见面料,按照受试者尺寸制作成连衣裙,利用三维动作捕捉仪获取受试者着装状态下,不同运动速度时连衣裙胸围、腰围和臀围表面的坐标点,通过曲线拟合得到三围曲线,并提取曲线面积、曲线周长、横向距离和纵向距离4个参数,作为客观评价连衣裙外观形态的参数。研究得出:面料和运动速度对连衣裙的4个参数均具有显著影响,其中对腰围参数的影响最大,其次为臀围,最后是胸围;短纤纱等不易变形的织物形成的胸围曲线较小,腰围和臀围曲线较大,且三围形态不易受运动速度的影响。

关键词: 面料, 运动速度, 服装造型, 三围形态, 动作捕捉, 连衣裙

Abstract:

In order to investigate the effect of fabrics and moving speed on garment silhouette, 3 subjects with similar figures and 5 commonly used fabrics were selected for the study of one-piece dresses according to the subjects' body dimensions. A three-dimensional motion capture instrument was employed to obtain the coordinate points of the bustline, waistline and hipline when the 3 subjects were wearing the dresses at the different moving speed. By using a curve fitting method, the curves of the bustline, waistline and hipline were acquired and the curve area, curve circumference, transverse and longitudinal distances were obtained as the objective parameters of the dress silhouette. Results show that both fabrics and moving speed have significant influence on the 4 parameters of the dress, of which the effect on the parameters of wastline is the highest, with the hipline the middle and the bustline the lowest. Fabrics made of deformable yarns tend to have smaller bustline, and larger waistline and hipline. Besides, their bustline, waistline and hipline shapes are not easily influenced by moving speed.

Key words: fabric, moving speed, garment silhouette,shape of bustline, waistline and hipline, motion capture, one-piece dress

中图分类号:

TS941.2

陈丽丽, 刘成霞. 面料及运动速度对连衣裙三围形态的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(04): 135-141.

CHEN Lili, LIU Chengxia. Effect of fabrics and moving speed on bustline, waistline and hipline shapes of one-piece dresses[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(04): 135-141.

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参考文献 10

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面料编号	纱线形态	组织	成分	密度/(根·(10 cm)^-1)		面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/ mm
面料编号	纱线形态	组织	成分	经向	纬向	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/ mm
1^#	短纤维	平纹	粘胶	150	108	106.5	0.25
2^#	长丝	平纹	蚕丝	329	272	54.6	0.10
3^#	长丝	平纹	涤纶/氨纶(97/3)	846	511	130.9	0.39
4^#	短纤维	平纹	亚麻	173	171	143.4	0.46
5^#	短纤维	平纹	棉	345	331	110.3	0.39

面料编号	弯曲刚度B/ (cN·cm^-1)	表面粗糙度/ μm	剪切刚度/ (cN·cm^-1)	拉伸比功/ (cN·cm^-1)	悬垂系数/ %
1^#	0.148 4	1.836	0.98	8.45	22.8
2^#	0.003 9	1.133	0.23	15.96	38.6
3^#	0.007 8	1.345	0.67	11.59	51.3
4^#	0.398 7	3.754	3.69	14.82	89.4
5^#	0.139 8	2.246	2.87	12.78	53.7

部位	参数	平方和	自由度	均方	统计量	显著性
	S	2 174.897	4	543.724	2 132.937	0.000
胸围	L	80.876	4	5.219	31.751	0.001
	A	3.769	4	0.942	10.25	0.013
	B	3.774	4	0.943	19.144	0.003
	S	455 599.899	4	113 899.975	580 139.723	0.000
腰围	L	905.540	4	226.385	1 823.570	0.000
	A	47.572	4	11.893	86.801	0.000
	B	113.396	4	28.349	144.011	0.000
	S	2 186.703	4	546.676	193.822	0.000
臀围	L	85.016	4	21.254	190.079	0.000
	A	27.089	4	6.772	46.604	0.000
	B	80.170	4	20.042	61.129	0.000

面料编号	曲线面积/ 像素²	曲线周长/ 像素	横向距离/ 像素	纵向距离/ 像素
1^#	1 869.104	154.592 2	48.928 5	44.249 6
2^#	1 873.343	154.885 0	49.979 9	45.137 3
3^#	1 876.232	154.954 1	50.128 5	45.279 7
4^#	1 855.192	154.332 1	48.213 7	44.617 5
5^#	1 854.733	154.333 8	48.630 5	44.523 9

面料编号	曲线面积/ 像素²	曲线周长/像素	横向距离/ 像素	纵向距离/ 像素
1^#	1 603.691	143.933 9	46.627 5	41.011 8
2^#	1 371.517	133.103 5	44.459 4	37.581 4
3^#	1 356.003	131.528 3	45.206 0	37.469 4
4^#	1 817.685	152.802 4	49.625 8	44.644 3
5^#	1 862.264	154.585 5	49.889 3	45.237 8