纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (01): 78-83.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200203706

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

乱针绣风格写意机绣产品的研发

温润1,2, 张小荷1, 周思佳1, 马颜雪1,2()   

  1. 1.东华大学 纺织学院, 上海 201620
    2.东华大学 纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
  • 收稿日期:2020-02-18 修回日期:2020-10-09 出版日期:2021-01-15 发布日期:2021-01-21
  • 通讯作者: 马颜雪
  • 作者简介:温润(1982—),男,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为纺织品设计与历史文化。
  • 基金资助:
    上海市社科规划一般课题项目(2020BWY032)

Freehand machine embroidery product development based on random stitching styles

WEN Run1,2, ZHANG Xiaohe1, ZHOU Sijia1, MA Yanxue1,2()   

  1. 1. College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
  • Received:2020-02-18 Revised:2020-10-09 Online:2021-01-15 Published:2021-01-21
  • Contact: MA Yanxue

摘要:

为改变机绣产品因工艺限制而单调生硬的现状,受乱针绣启发,借鉴点彩派绘画原理,开发了一种可表现写意效果的机绣工艺。通过基点针设计,探究基点针大小、针迹间距及数量对图案塑造的协同作用,经分层分色、灰度处理、针迹排布、组合叠加和色纱绣制进行分层组合,使机绣产品实现具有乱针绣风格的写意效果。研究表明:基点针边长与针迹间距比值以2∶1为界,比值越低图案轮廓越清晰,比值越高越适合表现不同轮廓之间的虚化过渡;单位面积内基点针越小,数量越多,图案明度越低;当基点针大小和数量一定时,针迹间距由小到大,可控制图案由深至浅的自然渐变;60组打样针迹灰度值初步建立了写意机绣针法参数库,可实现各层灰度等级与基点针参数的有效对应,使分层组合设计赋予图案层次感与立体感。

关键词: 写意机绣, 乱针绣, 基点针, 针迹间距, 分层组合

Abstract:

In order to overcome the monotone and rigidity in machine embroidery products due to machine limitations, a machine embroidery technique, which can express freehand brushwork effect, was developed, and inspired by random needle embroidery and the dot color painting principle. Through the design of base unit needle, this paper explores the synergistic effect of the size and number of base unit needle and stitch spacing on pattern shaping. Layered combination through layering color separation, gray-scale processing, stitch arrangement, combination and superposition, and color yarn embroidery was carried out to facilitate products with the freehand effect of random needlework styles. It was found that the 2∶1 ratio of base unit needle side length to stitch spacing leads to the optical results, and that a lower ratio is associated to a clearer the pattern outline, whereas a higher ratio relates to virtual transition between different contours. High density of base unit needle stitches per unit area leads to low lightness of the pattern, and when the base unit needle size and quantity are fixed, the stitch spacing from small to large controls the natural gradual change of pattern from deep to shallow. 60 groups of sample stitch gray values preliminarily established the freehand machine embroidery needle method parameter library, which was shown to be sufficient to demonstrate the effective correspondence between the gray level of each layer and the parameters of base needle, creating a layered combination design that gives the pattern a sense of hierarchy and three-dimensional effect.

Key words: freehand machine embroidery, random stitch embroidery, base unit needle, stitch spacing, layered combination

中图分类号: 

  • TS935.2

图1

写意机绣工艺设计模型"

图2

等边三角形基点针"

表1

基点针大小实验"

实验组
编号
基点针大
小(边长)/mm
基点针针迹
间距/mm
1 5 0.2 0.5 0.8 1.1
1.4 1.7 2.0 2.3
2.6 2.9 3.2 3.5
3.8 4.1 4.4 4.7
5.0 5.3 5.6 5.9
2 10
3 20

图3

基点针大小实验打样图"

表2

基点针大小与针迹间距关系实验"

实验组
编号
基点针大小
(边长)/mm
基点针针迹
间距/mm
4 3 1.3 1.7 2.1 2.5 2.9
5 7

图4

基点针大小与针迹间距关系打样图"

表3

基点针大小和数量关系实验"

实验组
编号
基点针大小
(边长)/mm
基点针覆
盖面积
基点针
数量/个
基点针针迹
间距/mm
6 5 S/2 115 2.9
7 10 S/2 29 2.9
8 20 S/2 7 2.9

图5

基点针大小与数量关系打样图"

图6

分层组合设计路线图"

图7

花卉分色图与灰度图"

图8

不同基点针针迹效果图"

图9

基点针针迹打样图与灰度值分布图"

图10

花卉图案打样对比图"

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