纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (04): 74-79.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200603906

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

纯棉纱线合股数对织物性能的影响

左亚君1, 蔡赟2, 王蕾1, 高卫东1()   

  1. 1.生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学), 江苏 无锡 214122
    2.无锡一棉纺织集团有限公司, 江苏 无锡 214000
  • 收稿日期:2020-06-15 修回日期:2020-12-22 出版日期:2021-04-15 发布日期:2021-04-20
  • 通讯作者: 高卫东
  • 作者简介:左亚君(1994—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为纺织产品改性。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309200);生态纺织教育部重点实验室开放课题基金项目(JUSRP52007A)

Influence of ply number of cotton yarns on fabrics performance

ZUO Yajun1, CAI Yun2, WANG Lei1, GAO Weidong1()   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Wuxi No.1 Cotton Textiles Group Co., Ltd., Wuxi, Jiangsu 214000, China
  • Received:2020-06-15 Revised:2020-12-22 Online:2021-04-15 Published:2021-04-20
  • Contact: GAO Weidong

摘要:

为研究纯棉纱线合股数对织物力学性能和保形性的影响,采用线密度相同的单纱、双股线、3股线、4股线4种股线类型,以适当的经、纬密分别织制成平纹、斜纹、缎纹组织的织物。对织物的拉伸性能、撕裂强力、拉伸弹性、折皱回复性、悬垂性、弯曲性进行测试与分析。结果表明:3股线织物的断裂强力和撕裂强力较大,4股线织物的断裂伸长率较大,双股线织物的拉伸弹性回复率较大;平纹织物仅有双股线织物的折皱回复性优于单股线织物,斜纹和缎纹织物的折皱回复性随合股数的增加均变差;双股线平纹织物悬垂性相对较好,但均没有斜纹和缎纹织物的悬垂性好;单纱织物的弯曲性能比股线织物好。

关键词: 纯棉纱线, 合股数, 织物组织, 力学性能, 保形性

Abstract:

In order to study the effect of the ply number of cotton yarns on the mechanical properties and shape retention of woven fabrics, single, double, triple and quadruple plied yarns with the same fineness were used for making fabrics with appropriate warp and weft densities, using the plain, left twill and satin weaves. The tensile properties, tear strength, tensile elasticity, wrinkle recovery, drapeability and bendability of the fabrics were tested and analyzed. The results show that the fabric with 3-ply yarn has a higher breaking strength and tear strength, the fabric with 4-ply yarn has a higher elongation at break, and the fabric with 2-ply yarn has a greater tensile elastic recovery rate. For the plain weave fabrics, the fabric made from the 2-ply yarn demonstrated better wrinkle recovery than that from single-ply yarn. The wrinkle recovery of the twill and satin fabrics deteriorates as the yarn ply number increases. The plain woven fabric made from 2-ply yarns have good drape, but not as good as the twill and satin fabrics, and fabric using single-ply yarn has better bending properties than other fabrics.

Key words: cotton yarn, ply number, fabric weave, mechanical property, shape retention

中图分类号: 

  • TS101.923

表1

织物试样规格"

织物编号 线密度 组织
经纱 纬纱
A1 9.6 tex 9.6 tex 平纹
A2 9.6 tex 9.6 tex 左斜
A3 9.6 tex 9.6 tex 缎纹
B1 4.8 tex×2 4.8 tex×2 平纹
B2 4.8 tex×2 4.8 tex×2 左斜
B3 4.8 tex×2 4.8 tex×2 缎纹
C1 3.2 tex×3 3.2 tex×3 平纹
C2 3.2 tex×3 3.2 tex×3 左斜
C3 3.2 tex×3 3.2 tex×3 缎纹
D1 2.4 tex×4 2.4 tex×4 平纹
D2 2.4 tex×4 2.4 tex×4 左斜
D3 2.4 tex×4 2.4 tex×4 缎纹

表2

纱线性能"

合股数 线密度 断裂强力/cN 单纱断裂强度/
(cN·tex-1)
股线断裂强度/
(cN·tex-1)
单纱断裂
伸长率/%
股线断裂
伸长率/%
条干CV值/%
单纱 9.6 tex 264.96 27.3 5.73 11.60
双股线 4.8 tex×2 270.15 24.9 27.85 5.50 5.85 11.13
3股线 3.2 tex×3 274.60 22.4 28.31 5.30 6.21 10.27
4股线 2.4 tex×4 268.68 18.8 27.70 4.80 6.81 10.21

表3

织物的断裂强力和断裂伸长率"

织物编号 断裂强力/N 断裂强力CV值/% 断裂伸长率/% 断裂伸长率CV值/%
经向 纬向 经向 纬向 经向 纬向 经向 纬向
A1 1 011.30 420.74 2.0 2.6 15.17 10.17 2.5 1.3
B1 1 022.72 522.16 2.0 1.6 16.31 9.76 1.0 1.4
C1 1 023.58 551.68 4.8 4.4 17.53 11.55 3.4 2.2
D1 888.56 540.16 3.2 3.3 18.08 12.60 1.2 2.0
A2 817.96 403.22 8.1 3.6 8.60 16.65 3.3 1.8
B2 1 130.12 386.30 6.5 5.9 7.95 15.78 4.8 1.1
C2 1 153.76 389.47 5.7 6.3 10.62 16.40 2.5 1.7
D2 1 112.62 432.50 2.3 4.9 11.18 16.56 3.6 2.3
A3 1 154.26 461.04 6.8 3.8 9.17 17.22 2.0 1.2
B3 1 140.96 398.46 2.9 4.9 8.59 17.21 3.7 1.2
C3 1 165.54 411.56 4.7 3.2 10.33 17.80 2.0 2.2
D3 1 116.30 386.16 2.8 3.1 10.52 19.44 1.9 1.0

图1

织物经向和纬向撕裂强力"

图2

织物经向和纬向弹性回复率"

图3

织物折皱回复角"

表4

织物的悬垂性"

织物编号 静态悬垂系数 动态悬垂系数
A1 62.06 63.80
B1 55.85 57.41
C1 58.50 59.52
D1 65.93 66.53
A2 42.90 45.36
B2 44.68 46.90
C2 40.51 42.99
D2 36.60 39.54
A3 40.96 43.28
B3 43.72 45.95
C3 40.49 43.04
D3 40.93 43.54

图4

织物经向和纬向弯曲长度"

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