纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (05): 155-161.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200901507

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于数量化理论I的男西装款式要素感性评价

李倩文1,2, 王建萍1,2,3(), 杨雅岚1,2, 张冰洁1,2, 李知霖1,2   

  1. 1.东华大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
    2.东华大学 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051
    3.同济大学 上海国际设计创新研究院, 上海 200092
  • 收稿日期:2020-09-04 修回日期:2021-02-18 出版日期:2021-05-15 发布日期:2021-05-20
  • 通讯作者: 王建萍
  • 作者简介:李倩文(1993—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装先进制造。
  • 基金资助:
    中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232020G-08)

Perceptual evaluation of men's suit style elements based on Quantitative Theory I

LI Qianwen1,2, WANG Jianping1,2,3(), YANG Yalan1,2, ZHANG Bingjie1,2, LI Zhilin1,2   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
  • Received:2020-09-04 Revised:2021-02-18 Online:2021-05-15 Published:2021-05-20
  • Contact: WANG Jianping

摘要:

为得到更加契合人的情感需求的服装产品,帮助企业更好地了解消费者的感性心理,以服装中的经典品类男西装为实例,提出基于数量化理论I的服装款式感性评价方案。首先,采用语义差异法获取用户对男西装样本的感性评价,并建立男西装感性意象二维空间;然后,通过分析男西装样本的款式特征,提取对感性意象有关键影响的款式细节设计要素;最后,应用数量化理论I构建感性因子与款式设计要素间的关联性模型。经验证可知,回归模型具有较高的预测精度且符合正态分布,进一步通过案例验证表明该模型可将人的感性需求与男西装款式设计要素进行转化,能够有效地用于男西装款式的感性评价。

关键词: 男西装, 感性意象, 服装款式, 设计要素, 数量化理论I, 情感需求

Abstract:

In order to obtain clothing products that are more in line with people's emotional needs and help companies better understand the perceptual psychology of consumers, a clothing style perceptual evaluation program based on quantitative theory I is proposed taking the classic category of clothing-men's suits as an example. The semantic difference method was used to obtain the user's perceptual evaluation of the male suit samples, and a two-dimensional space of the male suit perceptual image was established. By analyzing the style characteristics of the male suit samples, the style details and design elements were extracted, that have a key influence on the perceptual image. Finally, qua.pngication theory I was applied to construct a correlation model between perceptual factors and style design elements. The verification shows that the regression model has high prediction accuracy and conforms to the normal distribution. Further case verification shows that the model can transform people's perceptual needs with the design elements of men's suit styles, and can be effectively used for the perceptual evaluation of men's suit styles.

Key words: men's suits, perceptual image, clothing style, design element, Quantitation Theory I, emotional needs

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.12

表1

男西装款式要素表"

廓形 内部细节
领子B 串口C 扣子D 驳头E 门襟F 胸袋G 腰袋H 装饰I
H型A1 平驳领B1 高串口C1 1~2粒扣D1 宽驳头E1 方角F1 胸贴袋G1 腰贴袋H1 仿手工线迹I1
X型A2 戗驳领B2 普通串口C2 3粒扣D2 普通驳头E2 圆角F2 胸挖袋G2 腰挖袋H2 缉线装饰I2
V型A3 青果领B3 低串口C3 4粒扣D3 窄驳头E3 抹角F3 无/对称袋G3 无腰袋H3 滚嵌镶宕I3
无装饰I4

图1

部分男西装样本款式图"

表2

因子解释变量总方差的情况"

成分
编号
初始特征值 提取载荷平方和
总计 方差百
分比/%
累积/% 总计 方差百
分比/%
累积/%
1 3.740 62.340 62.340 3.740 62.340 62.340
2 1.644 27.401 89.741 1.644 27.401 89.741
3 0.235 3.911 93.652
4 0.204 3.396 97.048
5 0.101 1.677 98.725
6 0.077 1.275 100.000

表3

因子载荷矩阵"

因子编号 因子命名 感性词对 成分
1 2
1 气质因子 正式的-休闲的 0.228 -0.242
古典的-现代的 0.253 -0.118
华贵的-朴素的 0.207 0.350
儒雅的-粗犷的 0.242 0.101
庄重的-活泼的 0.192 -0.372
2 潮流因子 个性的-大众的 0.116 0.514

图2

样本感性意象空间分布图"

图3

款式要素与感性意象对应图"

图4

各因子标准化残差的直方图 注:图4(a)均值为-4.86×10-17,标准差为0.557,个案数N=30;图4(b)均值为-2.12×10-16,标准差为0.557,个案数N=30。"

图5

各因子正态概率图"

图6

男西装推荐款式图"

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