液氨处理对锦纶/棉混纺织物性能的影响

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200607205

纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (06): 128-132.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200607205

液氨处理对锦纶/棉混纺织物性能的影响

张华¹(), 张杰², 高燕³

1. 军事科学院系统工程研究院军需工程技术研究所, 北京 100088
2. 北京邦维高科特种纺织品有限责任公司, 北京 100043
3. 中纺协(北京)检验技术服务有限公司/中国纺织工业联合会检测中心, 北京 100025

收稿日期:2020-06-07 修回日期:2021-03-17 出版日期:2021-06-15 发布日期:2021-06-28
作者简介:张华(1969—),男,高级工程师,博士。主要研究方向为功能纺织材料的开发及其应用。E-mail: stone1992@126.com。

Influence of liquid ammonia treatment on properties of polyamide/cotton blended fabrics

ZHANG Hua¹(), ZHANG Jie², GAO Yan³

1. Institute of Quartermaster Engineering & Technology, Institute of Engineering, Academy of Military Science, PLA, Beijing 100088, China
2. Beijing BW Techtextile Co., Ltd., Beijing 100043, China
3. United Testing Services (Beijing) Co., Ltd.,/CNTAC Testing Center, Beijing 100025, China

Received:2020-06-07 Revised:2021-03-17 Published:2021-06-15 Online:2021-06-28

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

锦纶/棉混纺织物存在易折皱外观不平整的问题,制约了其在高档服装上的应用。为此,以锦纶/棉混纺织物为研究对象,在坯布预处理后染整前对其进行液氨处理,研究了液氨处理对织物拉伸强力、撕破强力、折皱回复角及表面性能的影响。通过平滑感、温暖感及柔软感3个定量指标,评价液氨处理前后锦/棉混纺织物的风格、手感变化情况。结果表明:液氨整理可以提升锦/棉织物的拉伸强力及撕破强力,处理后织物的折皱回复角从218°提升至252.3°,粗糙度波长与振幅之比从50.46降低至44.87,表明液氨处理后织物的抗皱性和平滑感均得到了明显改善;尽管液氨处理未明显改善织物的柔软感,但处理织物的热导率较未处理织物仍有一定程度降低,致使织物接触温暖感有所提升。

关键词: 液氨处理, 锦纶/棉织物, 表面性能, 折皱回复角, 织物手感

Abstract:

Polyamide/cotton blended fabrics prone to wrinkles and uneven appearance limiting their applications in high-quality clothing. Aiming at such problems, a polyamide/cotton blended fabric was taken as the research object, and the greige was treated with liquid ammonia after pretreatment and before dyeing and finishing. The effect of the liquid ammonia treatment on the tensile strength, tear strength, wrinkle recovery and surface properties were evaluated. Three quantitative indicators, i.e. smoothness, warmth and softness, were used to evaluate handle of the polyamide/cotton blended fabric samples before and after liquid ammonia treatment. The results show that the liquid ammonia finishing can increase both the tensile strength and tear strength of the polyamide/cotton blended fabric. The wrinkle recovery angle of the fabrics treated with liquid ammonia increased from 218° to 252.3°, and the ratio of roughness wavelength-to-amplitude decreased from 50.46 to 44.87, which indicates that the crease resistance and smoothness of the fabrics treated with liquid ammonia were significantly improved. Although liquid ammonia did not significantly improve the softness of the fabric, the thermal conductivity of the treated fabric was lower than that of the untreated fabric to a certain extent, resulting in the improvement of the contact warmth of the fabric.

Key words: liquid ammonia treatment, polyamide/cotton fabric, surface characteristic, wrinkle recovery angle, fabric handle

中图分类号:

TS195.513

张华, 张杰, 高燕. 液氨处理对锦纶/棉混纺织物性能的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(06): 128-132.

ZHANG Hua, ZHANG Jie, GAO Yan. Influence of liquid ammonia treatment on properties of polyamide/cotton blended fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(06): 128-132.

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试样	经向拉伸强力		纬向拉伸强力
试样	未经液氨处理	液氨处理	未经液氨处理	液氨处理
二次预定形织物	1 542.0	1 632.3	1 171.2	1 146.7
染色织物	1 574.8	1 591.7	1 198.5	1 097.1
亲水整理织物	1 706.3	1 736.3	1 152.9	1 167.1
成品织物	1 567.8	1 613.9	1 186.7	1 206.1

试样	经向撕破强力		纬向撕破强力
试样	未经液氨处理	液氨处理	未经液氨处理	液氨处理
二次预定形织物	139.3	183.8	96.6	106.6
染色织物	125.7	143.4	74.3	103.1
亲水整理织物	169.8	217.8	92.8	101.1
成品织物	190.5	227.7	146.2	164.6

试样	折皱回复角/(°)
试样	未经液氨处理	液氨处理
二次预定形织物	159.9	166.45
染色织物	154.1	174.90
亲水整理织物	186.1	196.90
成品织物	218.0	252.30

处理前后	挠曲功/ (cN·mm·rad)	压缩功/ (cN·mm)	压缩恢复率/%	压缩刚度/ (cN·mm^-3)	热导率/(W·(m·℃)^-1)		最大热导率/ (W·mm^-2)	表面粗糙度振幅/ μm	表面粗糙度波长/ mm	表面摩擦因数
处理前后	挠曲功/ (cN·mm·rad)	压缩功/ (cN·mm)	压缩恢复率/%	压缩刚度/ (cN·mm^-3)	压缩时	恢复时	最大热导率/ (W·mm^-2)	表面粗糙度振幅/ μm	表面粗糙度波长/ mm	表面摩擦因数
未处理	1 049.06	242.40	0.84	1 397.25	54.46	55.28	1 632.59	30.52	1.54	0.29
处理后	1 023.10	237.74	0.80	1 400.89	53.73	53.84	1 585.72	30.53	1.37	0.28

手感	织物综合手感值
手感	未经液氨处理	液氨处理
平滑感	0.41	0.43
柔软感	0.29	0.29
温暖感	0.45	0.46
综合感	0.39	0.4

液氨处理对锦纶/棉混纺织物性能的影响

Influence of liquid ammonia treatment on properties of polyamide/cotton blended fabrics

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