纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (07): 151-157.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200503107

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

风速对单双层着装状态下运动服针织面料湿阻的影响

王利君1,2(), 马希明1, 丁殷佳1, 陈诚毅1   

  1. 1.浙江理工大学 服装学院, 浙江 杭州 310018
    2.浙江省服装工程技术研究中心, 浙江 杭州 310018
  • 收稿日期:2020-05-15 修回日期:2021-04-12 出版日期:2021-07-15 发布日期:2021-07-22
  • 作者简介:王利君(1971—),女,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为功能服装及其舒适性。E-mail: wanglijunhz@zstu.edu.cn。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金资助项目(11471287);中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J201801);浙江省服装工程技术研究中心省部级重点实验室开放基金项目(2019FZKF09);浙江理工大学科研启动基金项目(17072191-Y)

Influence of wind speed on moisture resistance of single-layer and double-layer combined sportswear knit fabrics

WANG Lijun1,2(), MA Ximing1, DING Yinjia1, CHEN Chengyi1   

  1. 1. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2020-05-15 Revised:2021-04-12 Published:2021-07-15 Online:2021-07-22

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摘要：

为构建软风范围内单双层着装状态下运动服面料的湿阻预测有效模型,选取常用的12种T恤、8种外套面料,实验测试了4种风速下的面料湿阻,通过聚类分析获取代表性的T恤和外套面料,模拟T恤和外套的双层着装状态,测试不同风速下T恤与外套双层运动服针织面料之间的湿阻。构建了T恤和外套面料湿阻与风速的三阶多项式模型、双层组合面料湿阻与内外层面料湿阻之间的线性模型。研究结果表明:在软风范围内,T恤、外套及其双层组合面料均随风速增大而减小,内层T恤面料湿阻对双层组合运动服面料的湿阻影响更大;T恤、外套面料湿阻预测模型平均绝对百分比误差分别为2.22%、4.85%,双层组合湿阻模型平均绝对百分比误差为3.20%。

关键词: 风速, 运动服, 针织面料, 湿阻, 湿阻预测模型

Abstract:

In order to build an effective prediction model of moisture resistance of single-layer and double-layer combined sportswear knit fabrics in soft wind range, twelve T-shirt fabrics and eight outerwear fabrics which are commonly used were selected for this study. The moisture resistance of fabrics under four wind speeds was tested, and the representative T-shirt and outerwear fabrics were obtained by cluster analysis. By simulating the two-layer dressing state of T-shirt and outerwear, quantitative test of moisture resistance between skin, T-shirt and outerwear under different wind speeds were carried out.The third-order polynomial model of the moisture resistance of T-shirt and outerwear fabric and wind speed, and the linear model between the moisture resistance of double-layer fabrics combination and the moisture resistance of inner and outer layer fabric were constructed. The results show that the moisture resistance of T-shirt, outerwear and double-layer fabrics combination decreases with the increase of wind speed within the range of soft wind, and the moisture resistance of the inner T-shirt fabric has a greater impact on the moisture resistance of the double-layer sportswear fabric combination. The mean absolute percentage error of the prediction models of moisture resistance of T-shirt and outerwear fabric is 2.22% and 4.85% respectively, and the mean absolute percentage error of double-layer fabrics combination moisture resistance model is 3.20%.

Key words: wind speed, sportswear, knit fabric, moisture resistance, prediction model of moisture resistance

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.6

表1

织物规格参数表"

试样
编号 		试样
名称 		组织 成分 线密度/
tex 		密度/(线圈·(5 cm)-1) 面密度/
(g·m-2) 		厚度/
mm
横向 纵向
1# 汗布 纬平针 100%棉 18.22 70 100 156.67 0.54
2# 汗布 纬平针 100%棉 14.58 84 98 157.33 0.52
3# 棉毛布 双罗纹 100%棉 14.58 84 87 199.33 0.68
4# 弹力罗纹布 1+1罗纹 95%棉、5%氨纶 18.29 57 55 237.33 0.85
5# 汗布 纬平针 95%粘胶、5%氨纶 14.58 85 131 189.33 0.46
6# 珠地网眼布 集圈 100%涤纶 8.33 84 121 127.33 0.49
7# 珠地网眼布 集圈 100%涤纶 8.33 75 91 149.33 0.61
8# 珠地网眼布 集圈 94%涤纶、6%氨纶 8.33 76 65 151.33 0.60
9# 四面弹力布 纬平针 70%粘胶、26%涤纶、4%氨纶 15.39 77 114 286.67 0.80
10# 弹力汗布 纬平针 55%棉、40%涤纶、5%氨纶 17.62 79 107 201.00 0.66
11# 畦编布 畦编 100%涤纶 8.33 92 91 141.33 0.55
12# 半畦编布 半畦编 100%涤纶 8.33 90 96 135.67 0.46
13# 弹力罗纹布 2+2罗纹 96%棉、4%氨纶 27.44 55 66 318.33 1.17
14# 绒布 经编起绒 100%涤纶 16.67 89 94 289.00 0.89
15# 卫衣布 衬垫 95%棉、5%氨纶 18.45 71 88 253.67 0.68
16# 棉毛布 双罗纹 94%涤纶、6%氨纶 16.67 86 139 207.67 0.58
17# 四面弹绒布 长毛绒 90%涤纶、10%氨纶 18.45 67 85 221.67 1.32
18# 卫衣布 衬垫 55%棉、45%涤纶 23.12 78 91 234.67 0.87
19# 弹力罗纹布 2+2罗纹 52%棉、42%涤纶、6%氨纶 17.49 60 82 240.33 1.00
20# 弹力罗马布 双罗纹 65%粘胶、30%锦纶、5%氨纶 11.71 91 144 260.67 0.62

表2

织物性能参数"

试样
编号 		织物芯吸高度/cm 干燥速度/
(g·h-1) 		透湿率/
(g·m-2·h-1) 		透气率/
(mm·s-1)
纵向 横向
1# 0.07 0.05 0.10 542.049 1 155.67
2# 0.03 0.03 0.08 519.117 1 080.00
3# 0.10 0.10 0.04 515.901 523.00
4# 4.23 3.93 0.05 533.451 560.33
5# 9.23 8.80 0.06 553.592 723.33
6# 11.43 13.17 0.16 594.582 1 922.00
7# 5.13 4.92 0.11 556.537 1 267.33
8# 14.80 9.23 0.25 551.943 1 959.33
9# 1.23 1.43 0.02 467.609 309.03
10# 12.40 12.47 0.07 577.856 423.57
11# 19.17 17.73 0.25 569.376 1 516.33
12# 15.67 13.13 0.25 564.547 2 055.00
13# 1.33 0.42 0.05 505.065 418.70
14# 0.87 4.47 0.05 506.007 393.33
15# 0.10 0.13 0.10 537.574 887.33
16# 12.17 12.43 0.12 516.748 1 127.47
17# 1.03 1.53 0.09 489.282 567.00
18# 0.05 0.05 0.05 437.008 546.67
19# 0.07 0.05 0.10 499.435 657.67
20# 10.28 11.23 0.09 500.177 873.70

图1

自制网架"

图2

4种风速下T恤面料和外套面料湿阻与风速、标准湿阻的三维关系图"

表3

T恤和外套面料不同阶数多项式拟合结果"

面料 阶数 RMSE MAE R2 MAPE/%
T恤 一阶 4.418 3 4.146 2 0.736 6 35.430 0
二阶 1.822 4 1.621 3 0.955 2 15.370 0
三阶 0.306 0 0.253 6 0.998 7 2.220 0
四阶 0.249 7 0.183 7 0.999 2 1.510 0
外套 一阶 4.491 0 4.146 3 0.723 8 31.553 2
二阶 2.007 1 1.728 0 0.944 8 14.751 9
三阶 0.717 4 0.574 8 0.993 0 4.850 0
四阶 0.717 2 0.565 2 0.993 0 4.748 2

图3

T恤面料与外套面料聚类结果"

表4

风速对双层组合运动服面料湿阻的影响"

试样编号 织物组合 不同风速下湿阻/(m2·Pa·W-1)
0.1 m/s 0.5 m/s 1.0 m/s 1.5 m/s
Z1 A1B1 46.497 27.956 25.350 22.743
Z2 A1B2 44.477 27.036 22.781 19.258
Z3 A1B3 45.938 27.764 24.241 21.818
Z4 A2B1 44.468 27.026 24.053 21.630
Z5 A2B2 43.181 26.289 22.583 20.343
Z6 A2B3 44.642 27.566 23.128 20.338
Z7 A3B1 42.848 24.674 22.067 19.827
Z8 A3B2 40.829 23.204 20.048 17.258
Z9 A3B3 41.373 23.199 21.691 18.718

图4

湿阻预测值与测试值对比"

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