连体服衣下间隙特征指标的确定及其在服装合体性评价中的应用

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102208

纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (09): 137-143.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102208

连体服衣下间隙特征指标的确定及其在服装合体性评价中的应用

王诗潭¹, 汪秀花¹, 王云仪¹^,²()

1.东华大学服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
2.东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051

收稿日期:2020-11-11 修回日期:2021-02-25 出版日期:2021-09-15 发布日期:2021-09-27
通讯作者: 王云仪
作者简介:王诗潭(1992—),女,博士生。主要研究方向为服装人体工效学与功能服装。
基金资助:
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(2232021G-08);东华大学研究生创新基金项目(CUSF-DH-D-2020089)

Determination and application of air gap parameters in coverall fit analysis

WANG Shitan¹, WANG Xiuhua¹, WANG Yunyi¹^,²()

1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China

Received:2020-11-11 Revised:2021-02-25 Published:2021-09-15 Online:2021-09-27
Contact: WANG Yunyi

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为量化表征连体服与人体的空间关系并构建服装合体性的客观评价指标,利用三维人体扫描仪对7种姿势下的裸态人体和着装人体进行扫描。通过三维图像分析确定了受姿势影响的关键部位,并提取了22个衣下间隙指标。以主观合体度评分为标准,确定了9个衣下间隙特征指标,并对不同姿势下特征指标的变化规律进行了探讨。利用因子分析构建了基于衣下间隙特征指标的服装合体性综合评价方程。结果表明:构建的服装合体性评价方程的计算结果排序与主观合体度的评价结果排序一致,具有理想的评估效果;同站姿相比,抬臂和弯腰姿势显著降低了衣下间隙大小,裆长差下降高达64%,且姿势越复杂下降程度越明显;胸背部、臀裆部和腿部是影响连体服合体性的重点区域。

关键词: 衣下间隙, 服装合体性, 连体服, 特征指标, 三维扫描

Abstract:

This study was to quantify the interaction between human body and coverall garments, aiming to create a quantitative index for clothing fit analysis. Naked and clothed human bodies were scanned with 7 postures using a 3-D body scanner. 22 air gap parameters were extracted by 3-D scanned image analysis, from which 9 typical parameters were determined. An evaluation equation of clothing fit based on the typical air gap parameters was finally built using factor analysis. The results indicate that the newly proposed fit evaluation equation offers satisfactory evaluation effect. In addition, it is observed that arm lifting and bending postures would significantly reduce the air gap compared to the standing posture. In particular, the more complex the postures, the wider the range of influence; for instance for arm lifting and bending postures the crotch length decreased about 64%. Chest and back, hip and crotch and leg were identified as the primary regions influencing coverall fit.

Key words: air gap, clothing fit analysis, coverall, parameter, 3-D scanning

中图分类号:

TS941.16

王诗潭, 汪秀花, 王云仪. 连体服衣下间隙特征指标的确定及其在服装合体性评价中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(09): 137-143.

WANG Shitan, WANG Xiuhua, WANG Yunyi. Determination and application of air gap parameters in coverall fit analysis[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(09): 137-143.

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参考文献 13

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检验指标	裆长差	整体厚度	腿部厚度	整体面积差	腰围截面面积差	膝围截面面积差	整体体积差	手臂体积差	腿部体积差
r	-0.892	-0.828	-0.898	-0.861	-0.834	-0.861	-0.868	-0.836	-0.908
P	0.003	0.010	0.003	0.006	0.010	0.006	0.006	0.009	0.002

扫描姿势	裆长差/ cm	整体厚度/ cm	腿部厚度/ cm	整体面积差/cm²	腰围截面面积差/cm²	膝围截面面积差/cm²	整体体积差/cm³	手臂体积差/cm³	腿部体积差/cm³
站姿	11.75	1.56	1.34	3 411.51	316.42	57.96	71 244.37	2 296.61	7 988.69
抬臂105°	8.36	1.63	1.06	3 432.04	309.63	47.51	71 267.32	2 172.57	5 898.66
抬臂135°	8.09	1.54	0.95	3 068.06	316.67	45.48	70 301.27	2 216.54	5 180.62
抬臂155°	7.56	1.474	0.88	2 908.03	288.64	43.74	69 487.95	2 116.46	4 911.12
弯腰动作1	6.01	1.17	0.75	2 276.60	318.20	43.90	65 741.81	2 268.68	4 604.49
弯腰动作2	4.34	1.14	0.58	1 799.98	257.25	39.61	64 185.68	2 168.90	3 107.19
弯腰动作3	4.23	0.99	0.57	1 639.71	238.21	39.42	62 228.11	2 003.06	3 030.31

因子	裆长差	整体厚度	腿部厚度	整体面积差	腰围截面面积差	膝围截面面积差	整体体积差	手臂体积差	腿部体积差
1	0.159	0.291	0.166	0.25	-0.149	0.084	0.260	-0.378	0.100
2	-0.011	-0.240	-0.021	-0.162	0.450	0.094	-0.179	0.782	0.082

姿势	F₁	F₂	F	排序
站姿	0.827	0.253	1.080	1
抬臂105°	0.786	-0.086	0.700	2
抬臂135°	0.276	0.068	0.344	3
抬臂155°	0.422	-0.196	0.226	4
弯腰动作1	-0.885	0.353	-0.532	5
弯腰动作2	-0.846	-0.032	-0.878	6
弯腰动作3	-0.580	-0.360	-0.940	7

指标	Y	X	a	b	R²	P
厚度	裆长差	整体厚度	8.383	-4.80	0.727	0.015
厚度	腿部厚度	整体厚度	0.945	-0.40	0.736	0.014
面积	腰围截面面积差	整体面积差	0.035	199.46	0.644	0.030
面积	膝围截面面积差	整体面积差	0.007	27.16	0.646	0.029
体积	手臂体积差	整体体积差	0.013	1 946.54	0.540	0.022
体积	腿部体积差	整体体积差	0.362	-1 529.95	0.878	0.009

连体服衣下间隙特征指标的确定及其在服装合体性评价中的应用

Determination and application of air gap parameters in coverall fit analysis

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