纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (09): 59-65.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201200507

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

单经双纬组合全显色提花织物的结构交织平衡特征

陆爽怿, 周赳()   

  1. 浙江理工大学 浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心, 浙江 杭州 310018
  • 收稿日期:2020-12-02 修回日期:2021-05-14 出版日期:2021-09-15 发布日期:2021-09-27
  • 通讯作者: 周赳
  • 作者简介:陆爽怿(1996—),男,硕士生。主要研究方向为数码纺织品设计。
  • 基金资助:
    中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J201802);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016)

Balanced interlacement characteristics of compound full-color jacquard structure with single warp and double wefts

LU Shuangyi, ZHOU Jiu()   

  1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2020-12-02 Revised:2021-05-14 Published:2021-09-15 Online:2021-09-27
  • Contact: ZHOU Jiu

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摘要：

为解决组合全显色提花织物因交织不平衡导致织造中断的问题,提出一种交织平衡优化设计方法。以单经双纬结构型为例,设计了横向、纵向与沿半径方向灰度渐变意匠图用于试样,比较并分析使用常规与优化结构试样的上机平稳性、表面效果及经向交织次数标准差。结果表明:使用优化结构的试样与常规结构的纵向渐变试样织造交织平衡;使用常规结构的横向与沿半径方向渐变试样在梭口处不同程度起拱,甚至导致织造停止,下机后织物凹凸起伏,即交织不平衡,需设置低于800根/(10 cm)的上机纬密以避免挤压遮盖的误差,再通过交织次数量化结构交织平衡特性;使用优化结构的试样经向交织次数离散程度相对更接近0,且相邻两纬表达并列非遮盖的斜纹效应,证明了优化设计方法的有效性。

关键词: 单经双纬, 全显色, 提花织物, 交织平衡, 交织次数, 结构设计

Abstract:

In order to avoid weaving interruption caused by unbalanced interlacement of compound full-color jacquard fabrics, a new design method for balanced interlacement was proposed and optimized. For the single-warp-double-weft structure, linear horizontal, linear vertical and radial gray gradient pattern grids were designed for weaving samples. Conventional structures and optimal structures were then compared and analyzed from three aspects: weaving stability, surface effect and standard deviation of warp interlacement frequency. It is evident that all samples made from the optimal structures and the linear vertical gradient samples using the conventional structures demonstrate characteristics of balanced interlacement. Linear horizontal and radial gradient samples woven from conventional structures perform arched status at cloth-fell with different degrees, leading to weaving interruption and bumpy surface in some cases, which represents unbalanced interlacement. To solve this problem, filling density was adjusted to be lower than 800 picks/(10 cm) to avoid the error of covering of adjacent wefts, and the characteristics of structural balanced interlacement were quantified by calculating interlacement frequency. Dispersion degrees of warp interlacement frequency of samples are approaching zero while applying optimal structures, and juxtaposed wefts in optimal structures express non-backed twill effect, proving the effectiveness of the optimal method for balanced structural design.

Key words: single-warp-double-weft, full-color, jacquard fabric, balanced interlacement, number of interlacement, structural design

中图分类号: 

  • TS105.1

图1

三原组织实例"

图2

三原组织第1、2纬与经纱交织结构仿真图"

图3

单经双纬组合全显色数码提花织物设计流程图"

图4

基础组织、配合组织的初始组织及各自全显色技术点"

图5

基础组织全显色组织库"

图6

配合组织全显色组织库"

图7

优选12级组合全显色组织"

图8

1号优选组合组织第1、2纬与经纱交织局部仿真图"

图9

常规14级组合全显色组织"

图10

单经双纬组合全显色数码提花试样实物图"

图11

拱形梭口"

图12

常规14级横向灰度渐变试样布面细节图"

图13

1号常规组合组织第1、2纬与经纱交织局部仿真图"

表1

常规与优化结构试样布面特征比较"

全显色
结构类型		 数码图
渐变类型		 织造
平稳性		 梭口
状态		 布面
平整性		 灰度渐
变效果
常规组合
全显色结构
(14级)		 横向 不平稳 中部呈拱形 不平整 较均匀
纵向 平稳 平直 平整 较均匀
沿半径方向 较平稳 两侧呈微拱形 较平整 较均匀
优化组合
全显色结构
(12级)		 横向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
纵向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
沿半径方向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
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