基于合体两片袖的内旋造型结构设计

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210704607

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为探究袖身内旋造型的形成机制及影响因素,增强合体两片袖的活动性和机能性,从立裁角度提出分割线借量法、袖中线偏移法与袖中线旋转法3种结构设计方法。借助三维虚拟试衣技术进行单变量试验设计,确定每种方法中各变量的取值范围;通过正交试验设计,完成16款袖子的结构设计、虚拟试衣及实样制作;最后建立评价体系,进行主客观评价与分析。结果表明:各变量对内旋夹角影响程度的大小依次为袖中线旋转量、分割线借量、袖中线偏移量;结合动静态指标、主客观评价数据,得到的美观与舒适俱佳的袖子变量组合为分割线借量 0.5 cm, 袖中线偏移量2 cm,袖中线旋转量1 cm。

关键词: 合体两片袖, 内旋造型, 结构设计, 内旋夹角, 三维虚拟试衣, 立裁

Abstract:

Aiming at exploring the forming mechanism and influencing factors of the internal rotation structure of two-piece sleeve and enhancing its mobility and function, three methods were proposed from the draping perspective which are the parting line shifting method, sleeve midline deflection method and sleeve midline rotation method. The value range of each variable for the three methods was determined through the univariate analysis by adopting the 3-D virtual fitting technique. The sleeve pattern of 16 samples from orthogonal experiment were designed for virtual fitting and actual sample making. Subjective and objective evaluation results were analyzed by the established evaluation system. The results show that the influence of each variable on the inner rotation angle was sleeve midline rotation, parting line shifting and sleeve midline deflection in turn. Combined with dynamic and static indicators, as well as the subjective and objective evaluation data analysis, the sleeve sample with variable combination of parting line shifting 0.5 cm, midline deflection 2 cm and midline shifting 1 cm results in the best aesthetics and comfort results.

Key words: fitted two-piece sleeve, inner rotation style, pattern design, angle of inner rotation, 3-D virtual fitting, draping cutting

中图分类号:

TS941.17

鲁虹, 宋佳怡, 李圆圆, 滕峻峰. 基于合体两片袖的内旋造型结构设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(08): 140-146.

LU Hong, SONG Jiayi, LI Yuanyuan, TENG Junfeng. Pattern design of inner rotation styles based on fitted two-piece sleeve[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(08): 140-146.

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参考文献 12

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水平	A 分割线借量/cm	B 袖中线偏移量/cm	C 袖中线旋转量/cm
1	0	1	0
2	0.5	2	1
3	1	3	2
4	1.5	4	3

样衣编号	分割线借量/cm	袖中线偏移量/cm	袖中线旋转量/cm	前袖偏量/cm	后袖偏量/cm	前袖弯拔量/cm	后袖肘归量/cm	内旋夹角/ (°)
Z1	1	2	3	1.67	2.77	0.80	0.30	62.98
Z2	0.5	3	0	2.51	1.72	0.79	0.75	57.34
Z3	0	2	2	1.76	2.61	0.51	0.65	59.34
Z4	0.5	4	2	0.84	3.63	0.59	0.83	62.32
Z5	0	4	1	1.01	3.47	0.30	0.90	59.28
Z6	1.5	1	2	2.21	2.16	0.96	0.56	61.03
Z7	1.5	4	3	0.68	3.72	0.50	0.96	64.86
Z8	1.5	3	1	1.47	2.99	0.79	0.77	61.98
Z9	1	3	2	1.31	3.12	0.68	0.79	60.34
Z10	1	4	0	1.14	3.33	0.68	0.87	58.14
Z11	0.5	1	3	2.02	2.29	0.87	0.64	62.84
Z12	1	1	1	2.38	2.03	0.77	0.52	57.96
Z13	0	1	0	2.51	1.72	0.78	0.35	51.53
Z14	1.5	2	0	2.06	2.38	0.93	0.62	57.28
Z15	0.5	2	1	1.92	2.51	0.93	0.68	58.37
Z16	0	3	3	1.13	3.24	0.31	0.86	62.54

项目	平方和	自由度	均方	F	显著性
校正的模型	147.300^①	9	16.367	13.226	0.003
截距	57 375.819	1	57 375.819	46 366.562	0.000
A	20.044	3	6.681	5.399	0.039
B	18.334	3	6.111	4.939	0.046
C	108.922	3	36.307	29.341	0.001
误差	7.425	6	1.237
总计	57 530.544	16
校正后的总变异	154.725	15

样衣编号	R区	S区	T区	W区	侧举 45°	前举 90°	写字姿势	总和
Z1	3.50	3.50	4.17	3.83	3.83	2.67	3.50	25.00
Z2	4.50	4.83	4.67	4.50	4.17	3.33	4.33	30.33
Z3	3.83	4.50	4.50	4.00	4.17	3.00	3.67	27.67
Z4	3.83	4.50	4.67	3.67	3.83	2.83	3.67	27.00
Z5	4.33	4.67	5.00	4.17	4.00	3.17	3.50	28.83
Z6	3.83	4.67	4.83	4.17	4.33	3.33	3.67	28.83
Z7	3.00	3.33	4.17	3.50	3.67	2.67	3.00	23.33
Z8	4.83	4.33	4.67	4.67	4.33	3.17	3.83	29.83
Z9	3.83	4.67	4.83	3.83	4.17	2.83	3.67	27.83
Z10	4.83	4.50	4.50	4.00	4.00	3.50	4.33	29.67
Z11	3.67	3.67	4.67	3.67	3.83	2.83	3.67	26.00
Z12	4.50	4.33	4.67	4.33	4.50	3.33	4.17	29.83
Z13	4.67	4.67	4.67	4.33	4.17	3.17	4.17	29.83
Z14	4.67	4.83	4.67	4.83	4.50	3.33	4.00	30.83
Z15	4.67	4.67	4.83	4.83	4.50	3.17	4.00	30.67
Z16	3.50	3.83	4.00	3.67	3.83	2.83	3.17	24.83