纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (10): 141-147.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210809207

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

纸样技术在全成形斜裙编织工艺中的应用

徐艳华(), 袁新林   

  1. 常州大学 美术与设计学院, 江苏 常州 213164
  • 收稿日期:2021-08-24 修回日期:2022-06-24 出版日期:2022-10-15 发布日期:2022-10-28
  • 作者简介:徐艳华(1973—),女,教授,博士。主要研究方向为针织技术及针织服装设计。E-mail: xuyanhua@cczu.edu.cn。
  • 基金资助:
    教育部人文社会科学研究项目(18YJA760068);江苏省教育科学“十三五”规划课题资助项目(D/2018/01/78);江苏省社会科学基金项目(17YSD001)

Application of paper pattern technology in knitting process of fully formed inclined skirt

XU Yanhua(), YUAN Xinlin   

  1. School of Art and Design, Changzhou University, Changzhou, Jiangsu 213164, China
  • Received:2021-08-24 Revised:2022-06-24 Published:2022-10-15 Online:2022-10-28

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摘要：

为解决全成形斜裙样衣尺寸与客户要求之间误差过大问题,分析了全成形接片结构、编织工艺及尺寸误差产生原因,将梭织服装纸样技术运用于全成形斜裙纸样绘制及其腰口和下摆弧线长度获取中,运用扇形切展法和任意角度扇环法绘制纸样,以纸样剪移法和扇环弧长计算法获取弧线长度,并对2种纸样、2种弧长进行比较分析,演绎出更适用于全成形斜裙腰口和下摆弧线长度的直接理论计算方法。研究表明:扇形切展法与纸样剪移法的组合可用于获取斜裙腰口和下摆弧线的准确长度,而任意角度扇环法与扇环弧长计算法的组合,更可直接理论计算出斜裙腰口和下摆弧线长度,无需复杂而繁琐的纸样绘制、剪切和转移,缩短了试样时间,提高了试样效率。

关键词: 纸样技术, 全成形服装, 斜裙, 编织工艺, 接片工艺

Abstract:

In order to tackle the large error between the size of the fully formed inclined skirt sample and the customer's requirements, the fully formed panels structure, knitting process and the causes of the size error were analyzed. The paper pattern technology used for woven garments is applied to the pattern drawing and the arc length acquisition of the waist and hem for the fully formed inclined skirt. The pattern was drawn by fan-shaped cutting-spreading method and arbitrary angle fan-ring method. The arc length was obtained by the paper pattern cutting-moving method and the fan-ring arc length calculation method. The comparisons between the two types of paper patterns and between the two arcs lengths were carried out. A direct theoretical calculation method that is more suitable for the acquisition of the arc length was deduced. The results show that the combination of fan-shaped cutting-spreading method and paper pattern cutting-moving method can be used to obtain the accurate arc length, while the combination of arbitrary angle fan-ring method and fan-ring arc length calculation method can directly calculate the arc length without complex and cumbersome paper pattern drawing, cutting and moving. The sampling time is shortened and the efficiency is improved.

Key words: paper pattern technology, fully formed garment, inclined skirt, knitting process, panels technology

中图分类号: 

  • TS184.5

图1

全成形裙款式图"

表1

全成形裙子规格尺寸"

参数 参数编号 尺寸/cm
裙长 ① 80
腰宽 ② 32
下摆宽 ③ 125
腰口高 ④ 5
下摆高 ⑤ 5

表2

裙子各部位组织与密度"

部位 组织 横密/
(纵行·(10 cm)-1)		 纵密/
(横列·(10 cm)-1)
裙身 1+1正反针 70.7 121
下摆 1+1正反针+移圈 121
腰口 1+1罗纹 122

图2

裙摆张角与裙片角"

图3

全成形斜裙结构及测量部位"

图4

接片到裙片示意图"

图5

扇形切展法"

图6

任意角度扇环法"

图7

纸样对比图"

图8

纸样剪移法"

图9

扇环弧长计算法"

表3

弧线长度比较"

弧线名称 弧线长度/cm 相对误
差/%
纸样剪移法 扇环弧长计算法
腰口弧线 33.7 33.85 0.45
下摆弧线 133.9 134.16 0.19

图10

全成形斜裙实物效果"

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