棉/形状记忆氨纶纬编免烫衬衫面料制备及其性能评价

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20211202701

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为改善纬编衬衫面料的折皱回复性能,利用温敏型形状记忆氨纶与棉纱设计了平纹、单珠地、双珠地3款面料,并对面料进行3种不同预定形温度处理。分别对形状记忆氨纶的转变温度、形状记忆性进行表征,同时对面料的折皱回复性、形状记忆性、弹性回复性、缩水性进行评价。结果表明,当环境温度达到32.45 ℃及以上时,即人体体温就可触发形状记忆氨纶的形状记忆功能;形状记忆氨纶的使用可改善纬编衬衫面料的折皱回复角与弹性回复率,当形状记忆氨纶含量为8.4%时,折皱回复角与弹性回复率可分别提高20.5%、14.35%。

关键词: 形状记忆氨纶, 棉纱, 纬编衬衫面料, 温敏, 转变温度, 折皱回复, 弹性回复

Abstract:

Objective Although the existing cotton shirt fabrics offer good comfort and breathability, it is difficult to meet the dimensional stability requirements for shirt end-use. It is often necessary to finish the cotton shirt fabrics for shape retention without the need of ironing. Such finishing technique often uses chemical reagents for treatment, which will not only affect the comfort and softness of cotton shirt fabrics, but also remain some chemical substances in the fabric. This paper aims to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics by incorporating shape memory spandes fibers.

Method In order to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics, plain, single bead and double bead fabrics were knitted by using a cotton yarn incorporating temperature-sensitive shape memory spandex. Three different predetermined temperature treatments were carried out on the fabrics. The transition temperature and shape memory performance of shape memory spandex yarn were characterized, and the wrinkle recovery, shape memory performance, elastic recovery performance and shrinkage performance of the fabrics were evaluated.

Results The results showed that when the temperature reached 32.45 ℃ and above, the shape memory function of shape memory spandex could be triggered by the body temperature. The deformation fixation rate of shape memory spandex was 93.5%, and the shape recovery rate was 91.0%, indicating good shape memory performance of the spandex fiber and the effectiveness of the shape memory spandex in improving wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate of weft knitted shirt fabric. When the content of shape memory spandex was 8.4%, the wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate were increased by 20.5% and 14.35%, respectively. The properties of fabrics with different pre-determined temperatures were also found different, and the fabrics at pre-determined temperature of 195 ℃ demonstrated the best dimensional stability.

Conclusion The human body temperature is used as the triggering temperature of shape memory spandex to trigger the characteristics of shape memory spandex, so that the weft knitted cotton shirt can be automatically smoothed after wearing, achieving the iron-free effect and providing a reference for the development of shirt fabric.

Key words: shape memory spandex, cotton yarn, weft knitted shirt fabric, thermosensitive, transition temperature, wrinkle recovery, elastic recovery

中图分类号:

TS182.5

王雅倩, 万爱兰, 曾登. 棉/形状记忆氨纶纬编免烫衬衫面料制备及其性能评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(05): 125-131.

WANG Yaqian, WAN Ailan, ZENG Deng. Preparation and performance evaluation of weft knitted ironing-free shirt fabric based on cotton/shape memory spandex[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2023, 44(05): 125-131.

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参考文献 11

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组织结构	原料A与 B的比例	横密/(纵行· (5 cm)^-1)	纵密/(横列· (5 cm)^-1)	面密度/ (g?m^-2)
平纹	8.4：91.6	80	180	158
单珠地	4.3：95.7	70	170	142
双珠地	3.1：96.9	67.5	195	166

试样编号	横密/(纵行· (5 cm)^-1)	纵密/(横列· (5 cm)^-1)	面密度/ (g?m^-2)
1^#	90	150	176
2^#	87.5	150	173
3^#	90	152.5	177
4^#	77.5	147.5	146
5^#	77.5	150	148
6^#	80	150	150
7^#	67.5	175	165
8^#	65	175	166
9^#	65	177.5	167

试样编号	纵向		横向
试样编号	形变固定率/%	形状回复率/%	形变固定率/%	形状回复率/%
1^#	63.28	70.52	62.84	71.94
2^#	65.87	67.38	62.59	68.89
3^#	68.56	68.02	65.18	68.23
4^#	70.63	63.45	69.03	65.56
5^#	71.41	63.03	70.74	64.57
6^#	72.03	60.57	71.38	62.46
7^#	72.38	57.34	71.56	58.34
8^#	73.24	56.01	72.23	57.47
9^#	74.54	54.56	73.91	55.89

试样编号	缩水率(21 ℃)/%		缩水率(37 ℃)/%
试样编号	纵向	横向	纵向	横向
1^#	-3.6	-5.8	-4.5	-6.1
2^#	-3.3	-4.7	-4.2	-5.8
3^#	-2.7	-3.6	-3.8	-5.2
4^#	-4.3	2.2	-5.1	1.8
5^#	-4.5	1.3	-5.3	1.1
6^#	-5.9	0.9	-6.6	0.6
7^#	-4.2	2.0	-5.5	1.7
8^#	-5.1	1.6	-6.3	1.3
9^#	-5.8	1.0	-6.5	0.5
10^#	-2.0	-4.7	-2.1	-4.6