仿蜻蜓翅膀结构的冬季针织面料研发及其性能

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20220704401

纺织学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (09): 75-83.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220704401

仿蜻蜓翅膀结构的冬季针织面料研发及其性能

丁雪婷¹^,², 王建萍¹^,²^,³(), 潘婷¹^,², 姚晓凤¹^,², 袁鲁宁¹^,²

1.东华大学服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051
2.东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 200051
3.同济大学上海国际设计创新研究院, 上海 200092

收稿日期:2022-07-14 修回日期:2023-01-12 出版日期:2023-09-15 发布日期:2023-10-30
通讯作者: 王建萍(1962—),女,教授,博士。主要研究方向为服装先进制造。E-mail:wangjp@dhu.edu.cn。
作者简介:丁雪婷(1997—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装数字化研发。
基金资助:
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(2232022G-08);上海市科学技术委员会“科技创新行动计划”“一带一路”国际合作项目(21130750100);国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点专项项目(2019YFF0302100);上海市浦江人才计划资助项目(2020PJC001)

Development and performance of dragonfly wing structure like winter knitted fabrics

DING Xueting¹^,², WANG Jianping¹^,²^,³(), PAN Ting¹^,², YAO Xiaofeng¹^,², YUAN Luning¹^,²

1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
3. Shanghai International Institute of Design and Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China

Received:2022-07-14 Revised:2023-01-12 Published:2023-09-15 Online:2023-10-30

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为研发具有优异热湿舒适性的冬季针织面料,研究蜻蜓翅膀宏微观结构,选用150 dtex(144 f )石墨烯锦纶复合长丝作为面纱,Dryarn^®聚丙烯纤维/氨纶(30 dtex/30 dtex)包覆纱作为地纱,设计出4种仿蜻蜓翅膀结构针织物,同时编织一种1+2假罗纹组织针织物作为对照组,每种针织物分别采用3种上机密度。对针织物的保暖性、透气性、透湿性及液态水分管理能力进行测试与分析,联合浓缩映射法和功能评价值法综合分析针织物的热湿舒适性。结果显示:仿蜻蜓翅膀结构的针织物各项性能总体上优于1+2假罗纹组织针织物;仿生针织物的结构和密度会影响其热湿舒适性,其中以横密为104纵行/(5 cm)、纵密为159横列/(5 cm)的具有乳突结构仿生针织物热湿舒适性最优,适用于冬季针织运动内衣。

关键词: 仿生功能针织物, 针织运动内衣, 针织面料, 蜻蜓翅膀结构, 热湿舒适性, 功能评价值

Abstract:

Objective Warm retention knitted sports underwear has always been a hot winter product, but different from other daily clothing, knitted sports underwear is more likely to accumulate sweat in the process of strenuous exercise, leading to discomfort and negatively affecting athletes' performance. Many knitted fabrics are difficult to ensure the effective export of sweat on the basis of ensuring warmth, so it is necessary to design and develop knitted fabrics to improve the hot and wet comfort of knitted sports underwear.

Method Using graphene yarn of 150 dtex (144 f) as surface yarn, Dryarn^® polypropylene yarn/spandex covered yarn (30 dtex/30 dtex ) as inside yarn, 4 knitted fabrics with imitated structural features were developed following the study of macrostructure and microstructure of dragonfly wings, and 1+2 false rib weave knitted fabric was set as control group. Each knitted fabric designed 3 densities with P10, 0 and N10, corresponding to step motor value of 90,100 and 110,respectively. Warmth retention property, air permeability, moisture permeability and liquid water management ability of knitted fabrics were analyzed, and then comprehensively analyzed hot and wet comfort combined with concentrated mapping method and functional value evaluation.

Results All 4 types of bionic knitted fabrics were evaluated for hot and wet performance. Under the same fabric density, the warmth retention of papillary structure fabric was the best (Tab. 2), and under the same bionic structure, the warmth retention property of bionic knitted fabrics was increased with the decrease of density. Under the density 0 and N10, the air permeability of papillary structure fabric performed better (Tab. 3), and under the density P10, the air permeability of quadrilateral structure fabric is the best. Under the same bionic structure, the air permeability of bionic knitted fabrics was improved with the decrease of density. Under the same fabric density, the moisture permeability of hexagonal structure fabric stoodout (Tab. 4), whilst under the same bionic structure, the moisture permeability of bionic knitted fabrics was enhanced with the decrease of density. Under the N10 density, the liquid water management ability of hexagonal structure fabric was the best (Tab. 5), and under the same bionic structure, the liquid water management cap ability of bionic knitted fabrics increased with the decrease of density. The evaluation of the hot and wet comfort of knitted fabrics by a single index was not comprehensive enough, so combining concentrated mapping method and functional evaluation value made a comprehensive evaluation of many related factors, and analysis of the hot and wet comfort performance of knitted fabrics were conducted comprehensively. Under the same bionic structure, the smaller the density of bionic fabrics, the better the comprehensive performance have. At the same density of bionic fabrics, the comprehensive performance of bionic fabrics was better than twill tissue fabric, and at any density, except that the hexagonal structure fabric at P10 density was seen to be inferior to the twill fabric at N10 density, the comprehensive performance of other bionic fabrics was better than twill fabric at any density. For all fabrics, the comprehensive performance of papillary structure was the best with N10 density.

Conclusion By imitating the non-smooth surface texture of dragonfly wings, 4 bionic knitted fabrics are designed with concave and convex texture, which increases the thickness of fabrics and thus improves their warmth preservation, bionic knitted fabrics contact with the human skin to form a microclimate regulation space, the space can store hot air flow emitted by human body to achieve the thermal effect, and the space can improve the fluidity of gas to achieve the effect of rapid perspiration. The 4 types of bionic knitted fabrics demonstrate excellent hot and wet performance, and are suitable for winter knitted sports underwear, providing direction and fabric options for winter knitted sports underwear development.

Key words: biomimetic functional knitted fabric, knitted sports underwear, knitted fabric, dragonfly wing structure, hot and wet comfort, functional value evaluation

中图分类号:

TS941.71

丁雪婷, 王建萍, 潘婷, 姚晓凤, 袁鲁宁. 仿蜻蜓翅膀结构的冬季针织面料研发及其性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2023, 44(09): 75-83.

DING Xueting, WANG Jianping, PAN Ting, YAO Xiaofeng, YUAN Luning. Development and performance of dragonfly wing structure like winter knitted fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2023, 44(09): 75-83.

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参考文献 19

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织物编号	外观结构	步进电动机值	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/ mm	横密	纵密
A11	六边形结构	P10	380.4	1.544	117	197
A12		0	374.8	1.551	114	188
A13		N10	367.2	1.560	112	181
A21	四边形结构	P10	467.9	2.099	109	179
A22		0	453.6	2.184	106	172
A23		N10	440.2	2.196	103	164
A31	乳突结构	P10	473.1	2.839	113	172
A32		0	442.7	2.967	108	164
A33		N10	426.8	3.114	104	159
A41	褶皱波浪结构	P10	459.3	2.653	102	167
A42		0	450.8	2.852	100	160
A43		N10	445.2	3.042	97	152
B1	1+2假罗纹组织	P10	357.9	1.069	114	188
B2		0	354.4	1.146	110	176
B3		N10	348.1	1.210	94	158

织物编号	热阻/ (m²·K·W^-1)	传热系数/ (W·(m²·℃)^-1)	克罗值/ (10^-3 clo)	保温率/%
A11	34.455	29.050	222.25	37.89
A12	37.490	26.690	241.85	39.89
A13	42.740	23.510	275.70	43.30
A21	47.905	20.875	309.00	45.89
A22	48.535	20.610	313.10	46.21
A23	50.865	19.705	328.10	47.63
A31	56.555	17.685	364.85	50.03
A32	72.210	13.850	465.80	56.11
A33	74.260	13.470	479.00	57.33
A41	53.120	18.820	342.70	48.47
A42	54.200	18.485	349.60	48.95
A43	55.320	18.080	356.90	50.22
B1	21.795	48.915	140.60	27.82
B2	25.580	39.090	165.00	31.81
B3	30.370	32.930	195.90	34.97

织物编号	透气率/(mm·s^-1)
A11	45.616
A12	57.749
A13	70.904
A21	70.680
A22	71.316
A23	74.224
A31	62.588
A32	74.118
A33	78.406
A41	50.602
A42	52.113
A43	62.602
B1	36.327
B2	42.721
B3	51.187

织物编号	透湿率/(g·m^-2·(24 h)^-1)
A11	730.91
A12	752.20
A13	777.04
A21	640.44
A22	669.43
A23	697.21
A31	677.69
A32	712.85
A33	760.54
A41	716.72
A42	727.37
A43	750.43
B1	693.66
B2	659.95
B3	729.14

织物编号	WTB/s	ARB/(%·s^-1)	R/%
A11	3.77	41.10	248.24
A12	8.86	97.94	359.72
A13	9.37	71.09	460.22
A21	4.33	38.31	301.12
A22	6.20	43.01	341.65
A23	6.34	53.08	387.89
A31	8.17	67.78	199.23
A32	6.77	45.03	243.98
A33	6.63	49.25	303.89
A41	5.18	34.57	197.22
A42	7.77	90.10	231.45
A43	5.78	56.77	277.22
B1	4.39	58.77	312.55
B2	6.18	61.03	337.18
B3	6.26	66.30	373.59

仿蜻蜓翅膀结构的冬季针织面料研发及其性能

Development and performance of dragonfly wing structure like winter knitted fabrics

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