关键词: 提花织物, 双面织物, 自身接结, 附加纬接结, 呈色特征

Abstract:

Objective In double-face jacquard fabric design under layered-combination design mode, the weave used in two-layer structure with self-stitching is compound full-color weave, and the one used in two-layer structure with central weft stitching is covered full-color weave. Grayscale difference exists between the two full-color weaves, and the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric is determined by the grayscale of full-color weave. Whether the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric will be influenced by stitching methods is the main problem in this paper. The purpose is to provide fabric designers with a better choice of stitching methods.
Method 3 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples with self-stitching, central weft stitching, and central weft non-stitching were produced under the same technical specification, including yarn thickness, color, and yarn density on both sides of the fabric. The compound full-color weave and the covered full-color weave were designed with the same weave repeat (R) and enhancement of weave points (E) to ensure the test comparability. The fabrics were then tested for color influence by the color range, color transition uniformity and color differences.
Results There were 2R/E gray level differences between the compound full-color weave and covered full-color weave. On the fabrics, taking the 6 landmark lines with monochromatic gradient and two-color gradient as an example (Fig.4), the color ranges of the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics with self-stitching and central weft stitching were slightly different. The color range differences between the 2 sets of fabric samples are shown in Tab.4 and Tab.5. All of the differences were in either acceptable or similar range. In terms of color transition, 24 landmark lines were among the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples, and the R2 values of the fitted lines of relevant color values were all greater than 0.7(Tab 6), with 18 of them greater than 0.9. That indicates that the face and back the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics have a uniform transition, namely, the stitching methods have almost no influence on the color transition of double-face jacquard fabrics. In terms of the color difference on the fabric surface, the color difference values of corresponding color blocks were calculated between the fabric samples with self-stitching and central weft stitching(Tab.7 and Tab.8). The average color difference value of the face side was 3.10, and the average color difference value of the back side was 4.11, both of which were within the acceptable range. The color difference values of corresponding color blocks were calculated between the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples with central weft stitching and central weft non-stitching(Tab.9 and Tab.10). The average color difference values of the face and back sides were 1.48 and 0.77 respectively, which represent slight influences. It suggests that the central weft stitching method itself has slight influence on color rendering on the face and back sides of the double-face full-color jacquard fabric.
Conclusion To sum up, there is an acceptable or slight color range difference on the double-face jacquard fabric surface with different stitching methods. It has no significant influence on the uniformity of color transition, and the central weft stitching method does not have significant color influence on double-face jacquard fabrics. This indicates that designers have the freedom to choose the stitching method according to the product needs.

Key words: jacquard fabric, double-face fabric, self-stitching, central weft stitching, color rendering feature