再循环棉及涤纶短纤维的成纱性能与面料特征

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20230306301

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为解决再循环纤维产品质量差且难以实现高值高效利用的问题,利用转杯纺及其复合纱技术拓宽再循环棉、涤纶短纤维的利用途径,并提高其产品性能。将再循环纤维与原棉、粘胶、涤纶3种常见的短纤维进行混纺,并在此基础上引入不同比例、线密度的涤纶长丝、醋酯长丝、粘胶长丝纺制长丝/短纤包缠复合纱,分析成纱性能。研究发现:添加长丝可有效地提高再循环纤维转杯纺纱线的各项参数,涤纶长丝复合纱的断裂强度(11 cN/tex)优于粘胶长丝复合纱(8.38 cN/tex),醋酯长丝复合纱的断裂强度(8.16 cN/tex)最弱;涤纶长丝复合纱的条干不匀率(9.93%)与醋酯长丝复合纱(9.79%)差异不大,粘胶长丝复合纱的条干不匀率(10.15%)最差;长丝/短纤包缠复合纱的毛羽明显少于混纺纱,不同长丝之间毛羽差异不大;纱线性能的提高对织物断裂物理指标和吸湿速干性能均有不同程度的改善。

关键词: 再循环棉, 再循环涤纶, 长丝, 短纤维, 复合纱, 成纱性能, 织物性能

Abstract:

Objective Fibers recycled from waste textiles is known for their short length, and hence it is not easy to spin them into yarns again. They can be spun by rotor spinning which is well known for its low requirements raw material quality, but the yarns made from recycled fibers exhibit some disadvantages, such as low strength and poor abrasion resistance. The main objective of this study is to explore a novel method to improve the performance of recycled yarns.

Method Recycled cotton (length 9 mm) and recycled polyester fiber (length 6 mm) were mixed with cotton (length 28 mm), polyester and rayon fiber (length 38 mm) to make blended yarns. Using the same staple fibers, polyester filaments of 5.6 tex(36 f), 8.3 tex(82 f) and 11.1 tex(96 f) were involved to make filament/staple fiber composite yarns. An acetate filament of 8.3 tex(19 f) and a rayon filament of 8.3 tex(24 f) were selected as benchmarks for the newly developed yarns from recycled fibers and polyester filaments. Performance of yarns such as strength, evenness and hairiness were evaluated. Properties of fabrics knitted from these yarns such as strength, abrasion resistance and moisture absorption were examined.

Results The experimental results showed that the filament can effectively improve the performance of recycled rotor-spun yarns. In addition, the yarn quality was improved with increasing percentage of filaments. Staple fiber blended yarns exhibited lower strength than the filament/staple fiber composite yarns, and the staple yarn with the highest mass percentage of recycled fiber (up to 64.46%) showed the lowest strength. Among the filament/staple fiber composite yarns, the ones made with polyester filaments demonstrated the highest strength, followed by that with rayon filaments, and then acetate filament yarn. The filament/staple fiber composite yarns showed better yarn evenness compared with staple fiber blended yarns. There was little difference between the yarns made with polyester and acetate filament yarn, and rayon filament performed worst. The filament/staple fiber composite yarns ended up with less hairiness than the blended yarns. Little difference in hairiness was found between various filament/staple fiber composite yarns. The physical performances, moisture absorption and fast drying properties of the fabrics were better than the fabrics made from the benchmark yarns. The use of filaments in the fabrics improved the transverse and longitudinal breaking strength and elongation, bursting strength and thickness of the recycled fabrics. On the account of the strength and elongation of the recycled fabrics, fabrics made from polyester filaments and staple fibers were the best, followed by fabrics made from acetate filaments and then rayon filaments. The use of polyester/recycled staple yarns led to better the abrasion resistance of fabrics than the acetate and rayon filaments. The involvement of filaments in yarns showed little effect on moisture permeability of the fabrics. The effect of acetate filaments on moisture permeability was worse than that of rayon filaments. Compared to the filaments, the staple fibers had a greater effect on the perspiration permeability of the fabrics. The rayon staple fibers deminstrated the greatest perspiration permeability, followed by polyester staple fibers. For the improvement of moisture absorption performance of recycled fabrics, rayon filaments were the best, followed by the acetate filaments and then polyester filaments.

Conclusion By introducing filaments and various staple fibers to spun with recycled fibers, the disadvantages of recycled yarns was addressed. The physical performance, moisture absorption and fast drying properties of the fabrics made from recycled fibers were optimized. This work provides a new approach to the high value use of recycled fibers. The quantity of waste textiles is increasing year by year. The good efficient, high speed and valuable utilisation of recycled fibers is an inevitable market demand. Among the recycled products, the filament/staple fiber composite yarns with recycled fibers have good prospects for development.

Key words: recycled cotton, recycled polyester fiber, filament, staple fiber, composite yarn, yarn performance, fabric property

中图分类号:

TS111

杨瑞华, 邵秋, 王翔. 再循环棉及涤纶短纤维的成纱性能与面料特征[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(08): 127-133.

YANG Ruihua, SHAO Qiu, WANG Xiang. Spinning performance of recycled cotton and polyester fibers and fabric characteristics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(08): 127-133.

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链接本文: http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/10.13475/j.fzxb.20230306301

http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/Y2024/V45/I08/127

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纱线编号	纱线成分	棉纤维含量/%	粘胶短纤含量/ %	涤纶短纤含量/ %	再循环棉纤维含量/ %	再循环涤纶纤维含量/%	涤纶长丝含量/ %	醋酯长丝含量/ %	粘胶长丝含量/ %	涤纶长丝线密度	醋酯长丝线密度	粘胶长丝线密度	所织织物编号
1#	C/rC/rP	68.34	0	0	19.00	12.66	0	0	0	—	—	—	1^*
2#	C/rC/rP/Pf	58.11	0	0	16.13	10.76	15	0	0	5.6 tex(36 f)	—	—	2^*
3#	C/rC/rP/Pf	52.49	0	0	14.71	9.80	23	0	0	8.3 tex(72 f)	—	—	3^*
4#	C/rC/rP/Pf	47.87	0	0	13.28	8.85	30	0	0	11.1 tex(96 f)	—	—	4^*
5#	R/rC/rP	0	36	0	38.22	25.78	0	0	0	—	—	—	5^*
6#	R/rC/rP/Pf	0	30	0	32.85	22.15	15	0	0	5.6 tex(36 f)	—	—	6^*
7#	R/rC/rP/Pf	0	28	0	29.94	19.06	23	0	0	8.3 tex(72 f)	—	—	7^*
8#	P/rC/rP	0	0	39	36.52	24.48	0	0	0	—	—	—	8^*
9#	P/rC/rP/Pf	0	0	33	31.19	20.81	15	0	0	5.6 tex(36 f)	—	—	9^*
10#	P/rC/rP/Pf	0	0	30	28.04	18.96	23	0	0	8.3 tex(72 f)	—	—	10^*
11#	C/Acf	77.41	0	0	0	0	0	22.59	0	—	8.3 tex(19 f)	—	11^*
12#	C/Rf	77.41	0	0	0	0	0	0	22.59	—	—	8.3 tex(24 f)	12^*
13#	C/rC/Pf	38.71	0	0	38.70	0	22.59	0	0	8.3 tex(36 f)	—	—	13^*
14#	C/rC/Acf	60.57	0	0	16.84	0	0	22.59	0	—	8.3 tex(19 f)	—	14^*
15#	C/rC/Rf	60.57	0	0	16.84	0	0	0	22.59	—	—	8.3 tex(24 f)	15^*