关键词: 旗袍, 服装定制, 纸样自动生成系统, Visual Basic, 人体尺寸

Abstract:

Objective To improve the fitness of customized cheongsam pattern and realize rapid generation of customized pattern, a customized cheongsam pattern generation scheme based on human body size differences was discussed.

Method Firstly, a standard body sample and 27 samples covering various body types were selected from 118 initial screened participants through anthropometric experiments. Then complete the drawing of the standard pattern and evaluate the fitting of the sam-ple clothes,based on the size differences between 27 subjects of various body types and the standard body, a pattern adjustment rule was developed, and the adjusted pattern were evaluated for fitting to verify the feasibility and universality of the adjustment rule. Finally, based on the rules of pattern adjustment, a mathematical model is established. Using Visual Basic programming software, an automatic generation system for cheongsam pattern is established to realize the automatic generation of customized cheongsam pattern.

Results Through human experiments, 27 experimental samples and standard body were selected from 118 initial screened partic-ipants According to the standard body size, draw the basic cheongsam pattern. The sample clothes were made and evaluated for the standard system, and the sample clothes had good try-on effect. According to the characteristics of human body size, 24 anthropometric items are formulated. On the basis of the basic pattern, the pattern adjustment rules are formulated based on the data difference of an-thropometric items between samples, and the pattern adjustment rules are explained from four parts : vertical direction, horizontal direc-tion, shoulder adjustment and armhole adjustment. After 4 steps of adjustment, the adjustment of the experimental sample pattern was completed, and the adjusted 27 patterns were made and evaluated. All the sample effects were consistent with the standard body sample. According to the pattern drawing method and the principle of cubic spline curve, the reference point of the pattern curve is confirmed, and the curve structure line on the pattern is fitted, and the development of the automatic generation program of the custom cheongsam pattern is completed. The human body data of 10 experimental samples were randomly selected and input into the program. The pattern automatically generated by the program was compared with the artificial CAD pattern. The pattern obtained by the two methods showed consistent results in both size data and pattern types.

Conclusion 24 anthropometric items were selected from the three aspects of circumference, length and angle. Based on the size difference of anthropometric items between the experimental sample and the standard sample, the cheongsam pattern adjustment rules were formulated, and the sample clothing experiment was carried out. The results show that the 24 anthropometric items meet the needs of custom cheongsam pattern adjustment, and the pattern adjustment rules based on the data difference of anthropometric items are fea-sible and universal. According to the established pattern adjustment rules, the automatic pattern generation system of customized cheongsam based on Visual Basic can realize the intelligence of individual customized pattern, and the pattern generation effect is con-sistent with CAD drawing. The results show that the automatic pattern generation system developed based on Visual Basic according to the adjustment rules is feasible. This system provides a new approach for large-scale intelligent pattern customization.

Key words: cheongsam, garment customization, cheongsam pattern, pattern automatic generation system, Visual Basic, human body size