关键词: 经编成形, 零裁耗, 三维建模, 结构设计, 翻领T恤

Abstract:

Objective Warp-knitted fully-formed clothing has the problems in simple garment pattern, limited style change and cutting cost in production process. Due to its difference from conventional clothing production technology, the common methods to reduce cutting cost cannot be adopted. Therefore, using the characteristics of warp knitting forming technology, through the transformation of the structure of the T-shirt, it is possible to achieve a variety of patterns of the T-shirt production by taking zero cutting loss and diversification into account.

Method According to the dynamic characteristics of the upper limbs of the human body, the knitting sequence was changed from downward to upward, and the feasibility of the production of the zero-cut warp knitted shirt was analyzed. In order to eliminate the tension and lay down the sleeves, hollowing design was applied to the shoulder to meet the requirements arising from a range of activities. On the other hand, the collar, sleeve and body were partitioned and assigned with different pattern stitches, the prototype template was extracted from the parametric human model, and the loose and tight versions of the clothing were adjusted according to the style. As the last effort, the forming effect was virtual displayed and woven.

Results The upper limb was lifted from 180° to the natural droop state when the human body was moving, and the sleeve design was utilized to realize the angle rotation. However, the distance from the shoulder end to the neck socket point would become larger, and the shoulder of the garment would produce a large tensile force while the underarm would produce material accumulation. Therefore, the hollow design was applied to the shoulder. Through the structural design, the hollowing range was made equal to the depth of the sleeve cage, and the pattern structure of the contraction effect was added in the underarm. The underarm fabric was naturally folded and fitted to the underarm when the arm is naturally drooped without excessive accumulation. When the arm is raised, the underarm would be slowly unfolded while the shoulder hollowing is closed. As a result, the comfort level was improved. In addition, the structure of warp knitted fabric was stable, and the loop was not easy to be dispersed after breaking. Based on this feature, the mesh organization was adopted to mark the position. It was designed to make sure that the wearer would cut arbitrarily according to their own preferences without sewing. This feature was shown to improve the interest of consumers' independent design to achieve multi-purpose wear for one garment. It prolonged the service life of the garment, and reduced production loss and raw material waste. By observing the effect of the finished sample clothing, it was found that the effect of warp knitting forming loose T-shirt garments agreed with the expected effect. The fabric of tight T-shirt was stretched when wearing, the sample style was slightly deformed, and the sleeve hollow edge was changed from cone to arc. By comparing the number of grids in flow chart for the process template before and after optimization, it was found that the structure eliminates the raw material cutting cost of about 30%-40% of the reqion, facilitating zero cutting cost and zero sewing production with low-carbon.

Conclusion The structure optimization of the warp knitted fully formed T-shirt and the addition of the lapel structure is studied to achieve the low-carbon production of zero cutting and zero sewing of different patterns. However, the actual clothing effects of different versions of knitting need to be fully considered in production. Through three-dimensional modeling, garment parameters are visualized, which can help timely adjust the plate structure, reduce the cutting cost and time caused by repeated proofing, and shorten the production process flow.

Key words: warp knitted, zero-cut, 3-D modeling, structure design, lapel T shirt