纺织学报 ›› 2010, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (12): 108-111.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

裁剪适用性解析

魏静;金晨怡;韩阳   

  1. 温州大学美术与设计学院
  • 收稿日期:2009-12-09 修回日期:2010-08-10 出版日期:2010-12-15 发布日期:2010-12-15
  • 通讯作者: 魏静

Analysis on applicability of draping

WEI Jing;JIN Chenyi;HAN Yang   

  1. Fashion Institute, Wenzhou University
  • Received:2009-12-09 Revised:2010-08-10 Online:2010-12-15 Published:2010-12-15
  • Contact: WEI Jing

摘要:

围绕立体裁剪方法使用中涉及的造型、结构、材料、版型、方法等问题,从其适用性的角度进行了解析。通过对内空间“量”的把握与外空间“型”的塑造来实现服装空间的控制;为达到服装结构平衡,重点解决“丝缕、结构、松量”的平衡问题;依靠对面料的变形、加减与组合设计等综合方法,实现服装材料的整合;为解决服装造型均质性,要处理好形态与质量的均衡度问题;提高服装版型质量,关键是对服装版型的准确表达与细部的合理“描述”;实现造型方法的融合要从理念、过程与技术入手,全面融合。通过适用性的研究,旨在加深立体裁剪内涵的理解,尤其对更好地应用立体裁剪技术、拓展其应用领域具有重要意义。

Abstract:

The article analyzes the applicability of draping from such respects as shaping, structure, material, pattern and method which are involved in draping, that is, the control of clothing space should be realized by handling the quantity of inner space and modeling the shape of the outer space to reach the balance of the clothing structure, especially the silk balance, structure balance and ease balance. The integration of texture is realized by transforming, adding, reducing, and composite. The equilibrium degree of pattern and quality is critical to reflect costumes homogeneity. For improving the quality of pattern, it is essential to express the shape accurately and describe the detail reasonably. Idea integration and the integration of process and technology are the core elements to reach modeling compatibility. The article aims at gaining new insights into draping, and has important meaning in opening its application fields.

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