纺织学报 ›› 2007, Vol. 28 ›› Issue (2): 104-107.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

江南水乡民间服饰符号化元素研究

崔荣荣;高卫东   

  1. 江南大学纺织服装学院 江苏无锡214122
  • 收稿日期:2006-05-12 修回日期:2006-07-18 出版日期:2007-02-15 发布日期:2007-02-15

Study of the folk dress symbolization of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze

CUI Rongrong;GAO Weidong   

  1. School of Textiles and Clothing;Southern Yangtze University;Wuxi;Jiangsu;214122
  • Received:2006-05-12 Revised:2006-07-18 Online:2007-02-15 Published:2007-02-15

摘要: 针对江南吴东水乡民间服饰符号化元素从艺术和文化角度进行研究。采用了符号学的原理进行解析江南水乡民间服饰既是人们的日常生活用品,又是一种表现民俗文化的符号系统。主要表现为2个方面:一是直观表现为拼接的造型符号、多元化的色彩符号、百褶裥面等装饰艺术符号;二是诠释水乡民间服饰的生成、积淀、延续、发展均与水乡稻作文化生活的各种形式,如民间宗教、社会生活、艺术哲学、民俗风情、水乡地理以及人文环境等有着较深的渊源。指出水乡民间服饰既是服用功能性的能指符号,又是民间和民俗文化性所指的意指符号,二者共同构成了江南水乡“美用功能一体化”的地域服饰文化符号系统。

Abstract: From a viewpoint of art and culture,this paper studied the folk dress symbolization of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze.It illuminated in the light of symbology principle that the folk dress of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze was not only daily consumer goods,but also a symbol system of folkcustom culture.On the one hand,it was shown visually by a series of medley plastic signs,color signs,and decorative craft signs of pleats;and on the other hand,it implied notes in explanation of the origination and development of the folk dress,which were closely associated with the rice planting depending lifestyle and culture,such as the folk religion,social life,art and philosophy,local culture,and the geographical and humanity environment of waterside villages.It was concluded that the folk dress was the sign of serviceability and also the sign of folk traditional culture,the two jointly constituted the dress cultural symbol system of waterside villages of Southern Yangtze called ″integration of aesthetics and practicality″.

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