纺织学报 ›› 2009, Vol. 30 ›› Issue (06): 104-106.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

泡泡袖袖山褶皱凸起量的影响因素

林彬;李哲   

  • 收稿日期:1900-01-01 修回日期:1900-01-01 出版日期:2009-06-15 发布日期:2009-06-15

Influencing factors of drape raised quantity of bubble sleeve

LIN Bin; LI Zhe   

  • Received:1900-01-01 Revised:1900-01-01 Online:2009-06-15 Published:2009-06-15

摘要: 探讨面料性能和袖山剪开量对泡泡袖造型效果的影响。采用5种性能迥异的面料,分别测量出其厚度、悬垂性、面密度、硬挺度等物理性能。结构设计中,在原型袖袖山处加放不同的参数,绘制泡泡袖样板;以袖山褶皱凸起量为主要因素,测量相关数据,并分析得出结论:当袖山剪开量偏小和中等时,面料的厚度和面密度对褶皱凸起量影响最大;当袖山剪开量偏大时,面料悬垂率越大,褶皱凸起量越小;面料性能一定时,褶皱凸起量的大小随着袖山剪开量的增大而增大。

Abstract: Influence of fabric properties and garments structural parameters on the modeling of bubble sleeve was discussed. Five kinds of fabrics with different properties were used in the experiment;their physical properties such as thickness, drape, areal density and stiffness were measured. In structure design, bubble sleeve pattern was drawn by adding different amount at the sleeve cap of prototype sleeve. Taking the drape raised quantity of sleeve cap into main consideration, after analyzing related measurement data, it was concluded: when slashing amount of sleeve cap is small and medium, the thickness and areal density of the fabric have the most influence on drape raised quantity of bubble sleeve. When slashing amount of sleeve cap is relatively large, the more the drape, the less the drape raised quantity. When the fabric properties are constant, drape raised quantity increases with the increase of slashing amount of sleeve cap.

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