Abstract: Through analyzing the principle of structure design and providing with practical cases,the paper expounds the method of the notched structure.With the basic lapels′structure design as foundation,the collar type is drawn up when viewing directly and the paper is folded along the back line,disposing of the grading allowance relations between the collar out selvage and the neckline.The research indicates that this method is suitable for style changes of each kind of the lapels′design,flexible in application,easy to learn,and very practical.Being characterized by abandoning the mathematical computation and the experientialism,it makes possible that the collar bottom line and its outer selvage profile vary with moldings,and matches with the collar folding perfectly.It is reasonable in structure and offers high percentage of successful design.