纺织学报 ›› 2010, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (3): 55-58.

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

鲁锦的手工织造技术

任雪玲;朱苏康   

  1. 东华大学纺织学院
  • 收稿日期:2008-12-10 修回日期:2009-05-14 出版日期:2010-03-15 发布日期:2010-03-15
  • 通讯作者: 朱苏康

Manual weaving technology of Lu Brocade

REN XueLing;ZHU Sukang

  

  1. College of Textile, Donghua University
  • Received:2008-12-10 Revised:2009-05-14 Online:2010-03-15 Published:2010-03-15
  • Contact: ZHU Sukang

摘要:

在对鲁锦深入调查的基础上,对鲁锦的织造技术进行探究,并收集、整理大量的鲁锦图案,用工程技术学的方法探讨了几种典型图案的织造技术,重点分析经线显花技术,认为日本博多织与鲁锦之间在经浮显花技术存在一定历史渊源。通过鲁锦“包袱带”加工,分析独特的“挂经”织造技术。基于鲁锦“七个字”织纹图案,剖析源于古代的一经穿多综的省综穿综方式,并分析鲁锦的挑花技术。认为鲁锦的部分织造技术具有科学性和创造性,是用现代织机无法实现的。

Abstract:

Based on profound investigations of Lu brocade, we explore the weaving technology of Lu brocade by collecting, classifying and analyzing a great deal of patterns, and probe into the weaving technology of several typical patterns by using engineering technology methodology with focus on patterns by warp threads. It is considered that some historical origin exits between Japanese Hakata-or I and Lu brocade in respect of making patterns by warp threads. Through manufacturing of cloth-wrapper band, the unique hanging-warps weaving technology of Lu brocade is analyzed. Based on the weaving pattern of seven characters, we analyze the framework-saving drawing method originating from an ancient method-a warp yarn passing through several frameworks. In addition, the loop transfer technology of Lu brocade is discussed. Finally, we conclude that some weaving technology of Lu brocade are scientific and creative, which can not be implemented by modern loom.

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