纺织学报 ›› 2007, Vol. 28 ›› Issue (8): 87-90.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

江南水乡妇女服饰的镶拼功能与渊源

张竞琼;钟铉   

  1. 江南大学纺织服装学院 江苏无锡214122
  • 收稿日期:2006-05-15 修回日期:2006-07-21 出版日期:2007-08-15 发布日期:2007-08-15

Source and function of combination on females′ clothes in the area south Yangtze River

ZHANG Jingqiong;ZHONG Xuan   

  1. School of Textile and Garment;Jiangnan University;Wuxi;Jiangsu 214122;China
  • Received:2006-05-15 Revised:2006-07-21 Online:2007-08-15 Published:2007-08-15

摘要: 江南水乡妇女服饰在长期的生产实践中形成了自己的特色,通过分析在大襟衫与束腰等服饰上广泛运用的镶拼工艺和典型款式,发现大襟衫上的镶拼是竖式与横式兼备,另有找袖;束腰上的镶拼有竖式,也有面积较小的点缀式。并就此种款式特点对镶拼工艺的实用功能进行探讨,总结出其生理的实用功能是节省,便于拆换,支托腰力与放置物件;其心理的审美功能是由实用而至美,由比例而至美,由创造而至美,由祈福而至美。而其渊源可以上溯至衣裳连属的深衣,并历经宋、明、清历代沿袭演变而成,这表明镶拼是中国古典服装造型结构与审美机制双重需要的延续。

Abstract: Females′ clothes in the area south Yangtze River have produced their own characters in the long history.Combination is one of the most prominent characters.It refers to a technique that inlays two or more pieces of cloth on the clothes.Combination on the max-chemise includes both vertical and horizontal forms.Combination on waistband can be divided into vertical form and interspersed form.The main function of combination is for practicability.It can be disassembled easily and it can hold some little items.It also has aesthetic functions.The source of combination can be traced back to very early ages,and it was further developed in the Song,Ming,and Qing dynasties.It indicates that combination is the evolution of traditional costume and aesthetic requirement.

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