纺织学报 ›› 2011, Vol. 32 ›› Issue (11): 100-105.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

服装褶纹元素的演变与立体构成方法探析

蒋红英   

  1. 厦门理工学院设计艺术系
  • 收稿日期:2010-11-01 修回日期:2011-07-12 出版日期:2011-11-15 发布日期:2011-11-15
  • 通讯作者: 蒋红英 E-mail:jhy@xmut.edu.cn
  • 基金资助:

    省级

On History Development and Present Situation of Garments Pleat Veins Based on Apparel Three-dimensional Structure

  • Received:2010-11-01 Revised:2011-07-12 Online:2011-11-15 Published:2011-11-15

摘要: 褶纹元素是服装设计重要的灵感来源。分析褶纹元素的发展演变和构成技术对认识褶纹元素的本质具有重要意义。按照褶纹元素在衣文化史上的演变,将其划分为古希腊古罗马的自由化时期、十九世纪和二十世纪初期的均齐化时期、当今的多元化时期,分析每一时期褶纹元素的特点和构成方式。运用立体构成方法分析当今常见的不同类型衣身褶纹操作步骤,提出在衣身褶纹立体构成过程中要注意褶量构成的分析、起始位置的选择、面料性能与丝绺方向、整体平衡与袖窿松量等操作要领。

Abstract: An inspiration of fashion designing garments pleat veins present its nature clearly through history development and technique means. Based on the development of pleat veins in apparel history, the article makes an introduction of three stages from the liberalization age in ancient Greece and Rome, homogenization period around 19th and early 20th century, to the present pluralization era, each with different styles and technique means. After employing apparel three-dimensional structure to analyze operating steps in different common pleat veins of body piece at present, it goes on to put forward with operation tips from the formation of gathering quantity, the selection of initial position, the fabric performance and direction, the spatial integrity of clothes to armhole curve.

中图分类号: 

  • TS 941.7
[1] 穆慧玲. 传统鲁绣的材质与工艺特点[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(10): 63-0.
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