关键词: 直接转化, 间接转化, 余量位移, 余量消解, 解构性结构

Abstract: Starting from the back surplus value forming of the dress basic pattern,many kinds of methods of handling the back surplus value by using pattern design, clothing craftsmanship and fabric performance are analyzed. Structure handling of the dress back surplus value is supposed to use the explicit and direct methods of dart, split line and wrinkle structure handling as the foundation, the viewpoint carring on the multi-ways' surplus value displacement, surplus value remove and surplus value conversion method that combined with the indirect and implicit methods of fabric remodel and technology handling through the synthesis consideration was proposed.,which provide theory basis and the practice instruction for promoting scientific and rationality of the women's wear structural design and promulgating further the clothing structural design rule.

Key words: direct conversion, indirect conversion, surplus value displacement, surplus value remove, deconstructive structure