纺织学报 ›› 2013, Vol. 34 ›› Issue (8): 42-0.

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

交织对无缝内衣面料结构与伸缩性的影响

陈丽华   

  1. 北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院
  • 收稿日期:2012-08-16 修回日期:2013-03-29 出版日期:2013-08-15 发布日期:2013-08-15
  • 通讯作者: 陈丽华 E-mail:wclh@sina.com
  • 基金资助:

    北京市教育委员会科技计划面上项目

Influence of intertexture on construction and elasticity of seamless underwear fabrics

  • Received:2012-08-16 Revised:2013-03-29 Online:2013-08-15 Published:2013-08-15

摘要: 本文选择了cooldry吸湿速干涤纶、Thermolite保暖涤纶和Tencel再生纤维及氨纶/锦纶弹力包芯纱分别为面纱和地纱,采用平纹添纱组织和N6上机密度设计与织造了4组16种交织物。对织物的纵横向密度、平方米重及厚度,拉伸伸长率及弹性回复率进行了测试与分析,并采用一元方差分析了交织对无缝内衣面料结构规格与伸缩性影响的显著性。结果表明,交织对织物纵横向密度、平方米重及厚度,拉伸伸长率影响均十分显著,对织物弹性回复率影响不显著;织物密度、单米重、厚度及拉伸率较大的交织方式为:面纱、地纱均为弹力包芯纱与非弹力纱间隔1根排列,或织物面纱为非弹力纱,地纱为弹力包芯纱。其研究结果对无缝内衣的设计与开发具有一定的参考价值。

关键词: 交织, 无缝内衣, 织物结构规格, 延伸性, 弹性回复性

Abstract: 16 kinds (4 groups) of intertexture fabrics were designed and knitted with plain plating stitch and N6 looming densities in the program, using cooldry, theermolite, tencel and core-spun spandex/nylon yarns as the face yarn and the ground yarn respectively. The course count, wale count, surface density and thickness, elongation rate, and elastic recovery were tested. The influence of intertexture on the construction, specification and elasticity of seamless underwear fabric was investigatek by analysis of variance. The results showed that intertexture has significant influence on the course count, wale count, surface density, thickness, and elongation rate but little effect on the elastic recovery of the fabrics. For ovtaining fabric with greater surface density, thickness, and elongation rate, it is suggested that the way of intertexture be: core-spun spandex yarn and non-spandex yarn are arranged in an interval of 1 strand as the face yarn and the ground yarn, or non-spandex yarn as the face yarn and core-spun spandex yarn as the ground yarn. The research results provide certain reference for the design and development of seamless underwear.

Key words: intertexture, saamless underwear, fabric construction and specification, extensibility, elastic recovery

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