关键词: 马面裙, 鱼鳞百褶裙, 襕干裙, 凤尾裙, 形制演变

Abstract: Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese horse-face skirt collected in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum, this research is to describe and analyze the structure and the tailor technology of the hundred-pleat skirt, Striped skirt and the phoenix-tail skirt in the early republic of China. It points out that the garment sculpting from loose type with more pleats to fit type with less pleats, the pattern from a over-elaborate skirt cut in many pieces to a simple skirt cut in four pieces, the tailoring from the traditional two-dimensional molding to western three-dimensional ways., Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese horse-face skirt collected in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum, this research is to describe and analyze the structure and the tailor technology of the hundred-pleat skirt, Striped skirt and the phoenix-tail skirt in the early republic of China. It points out that the garment sculpting from loose type with more pleats to fit type with less pleats, the pattern from a over-elaborate skirt cut in many pieces to a simple skirt cut in four pieces, the tailoring from the traditional two-dimensional molding to western three-dimensional ways.

Key words: horse-face skirt, hundred-pleat skirt, one-piece dress, phoenix-tail skirt, molding development