着装方式的构成因子解析及其组合设计

纺织学报 ›› 2014, Vol. 35 ›› Issue (5): 103-0.

着装方式的构成因子解析及其组合设计

王云仪^1,2,皇甫孝东^1,3,张爱萍^1,2

1. 东华大学服装•艺术设计学院
2. 现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室（东华大学）
3. 东华大学功能防护服装研究中心

收稿日期:2013-04-03 修回日期:2013-12-20 出版日期:2014-05-15 发布日期:2014-05-09
通讯作者: 王云仪 E-mail:wangyunyi607@hotmail.com
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金资助项目；上海市教委科研创新项目；上海市浦江人才计划项目

Analyzing constitutional factors of wearing style and its overall desing

Received:2013-04-03 Revised:2013-12-20 Online:2014-05-15 Published:2014-05-09

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 同一件服装在不同穿着方式下表现出不同的隔热性能。本文将服装的着装方式解构为三个影响因子：服装对人体的覆盖面积；服装开口；服装局部面料堆积。基于这三个影响因子进行了穿着方式可变的功能服装研发。通过穿着实验进行人体工效客观测量和受试者主观感觉评价，针对服装的门襟开口量、衣袖整体的移除及折叠位置、前臂衣袖的移除（上挽）量进行了实验评价，完成了具有不同穿着方式的实验服装的设计方案优化，为定量测评着装方式对服装隔热性能的影响奠定了基础。

关键词: 服装, 着装方式, 隔热性能, 穿着实验

Abstract: The thermal insulation properties of one piece of clothing are different in different wearing methods. The wearing method of clothing was deconstructed into three factors in this paper, including body surface area coverage, clothing openings and sectional fabric wrinkled up. Based on these three factors, a piece of clothing with adjustable wearing methods was developed. The objective tests based on Human Ergonomics principles and the subjective evaluations in wearing trials were conducted. Some key elements were evaluated and optimized in clothing construction design, including the positions of unzipping the placket zipper, the positions of unzipped sleeve attached to the body, and the positions of detaching (rolling up) sleeves on forearms. Finally, the clothing with adjustable wearing methods was developed, which will be used in the following experiments of quantitatively evaluating the effects of the different wearing methods to clothing thermal insulation properties.

Key words: colthing, wearing style, thermal insulation, wearing trial

王云仪皇甫孝东张爱萍. 着装方式的构成因子解析及其组合设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2014, 35(5): 103-0.

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