近代民间肚兜形制及其手工修复针法

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为研究肚兜的形制与手工针法，通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆和婺源博物馆馆藏肚兜进行了深入的考察与分析，对肚兜形制和缝制手工针法技艺进行分类，探索性地恢复了肚兜的历史文化记忆。研究出修复保留传统肚兜的纯手工方法，本着遵循田野考察实践，访寻民间手工制作艺人，探寻了肚兜的文化内涵本源，并对遗留下来的残缺肚兜采用传统手工针法进行尝试性修复，证明了手工修复的可能性与优越性，为年久残次的纺织服装品提供参考的修复跨径。

关键词: 肚兜, 形制, 手工, 技艺, 针法

Abstract:

In order to study the shape and manual stitch on the bellyband, mainly by deep investigation and analysis on the bellyband of Folk costume Teach and Learn Studio of Jiangnan University and Wuyuan Museum, the bellyband shape and tailoring manual stitch skill of partial repaired bellyband are classified, which exploraatorily recover the historical and cultural memory of bellyband. The pure manual methods of repairing and preserving of traditional bellyband are found out. Based on following the fieldwork practice, and wisiting the folk handmade artists, exploring the origin of cultural connotation of bellyband, and trying to repair the remaining incomplete bellyband by rsing the traditional craftsmanship stitch to recover, it is proved that the manual repair is possibile and superior. This provides reference for repair path of the old and defective textile garments.

Key words: bellyband, shape, handwork, skill, stitch

许平山张竞琼曾宪锋袁金龙. 近代民间肚兜形制及其手工修复针法[J]. 纺织学报, 2016, 37(3): 132-137.

参考文献 10

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[10]	国家文物局博物馆与社会文物司.博物馆纺织品文物保护技术手册[M]. 北京:文物出版社, 2009,(7): 90-93 The department of museum and social cultural relics of the State Bureau of Cultural Relics. The cultural relics protection technology handbook of museum textile[M]. Beijing: Cultural Relics Publishing House, 2009,(7): 90-93 ,
[1]	周丹. 当代肚兜服饰的演变研究[D]. 湖南师范大学硕士论文,2011-04 Zhou Dan. Study on the evolution of contemporary bellyband[D]. Master's thesis of Hunan Normal University, 2011-04
[2]	王群山. 近代汉民族肚兜纹饰刍议[J].饰,2004,(4):40-42 Wang Qunshan. My humble opinion in Modern Chinese bellyband ornamentation[J]. Qrnaments, 2004,(4):40-42
[3]	亓延. 近代齐鲁民间大襟服装的技艺及民俗文化[J]. 纺织学报, 2010,(11):116-121 Qi Yan. Art and folk culture of modern Qilu folk Dajin clothing[J]. Journal of textile, 2010,(11):116-121
[4]	潘建华.女红[M]. 北京：人民美术出版社, 2009.5 Pan Jianhua. Sewing[M]. Beijing: People's Fine Arts Publishing House, 2009.5
[5]	潘建华.云缕心衣[M]. 上海:上海古籍出版社, 2005.7 Pan Jianhua. Cloud wisp vest[M]. Shanghai: Shanghai ancient books publishing house, 2005.7
[6]	王虹. 陕西刺绣肚兜[J]. 上海工艺美术, 2005,(6):94-95 Wang Hong. Shaanxi embroidery bellyband[J]. Shanghai arts and crafts, 2005,(6):94-95
[7]	汤婕妤. 清代肚兜纹样[J]. 艺苑, 2012,(3):99-100 Tang Jieyu. The Qing Dynasty bellyband pattern[J]. Art gallery, 2012,(3):99-100
[8]	黄强. 中国内衣史[M]. 北京:中国纺织出版社, 2008,(1): 116-120 Huang Qiang. Chinese Underwear History[M]. Beijing: China Textile Press, 2008,(1): 116-120
[9]	苏洁. 析肚兜之东风西渐[J]. 武汉科技学院学报, 2005,(2): 9-11 Su Jie. Analysis the East West of bellyband[J]. Journal of Wuhan University of Science and Engineering, 2005,(2): 9-11
[10]	国家文物局博物馆与社会文物司.博物馆纺织品文物保护技术手册[M]. 北京:文物出版社, 2009,(7): 90-93 The department of museum and social cultural relics of the State Bureau of Cultural Relics. The cultural relics protection technology handbook of museum textile[M]. Beijing: Cultural Relics Publishing House, 2009,(7): 90-93 ,
[1]	周丹. 当代肚兜服饰的演变研究[D]. 湖南师范大学硕士论文,2011-04 Zhou Dan. Study on the evolution of contemporary bellyband[D]. Master's thesis of Hunan Normal University, 2011-04
[2]	王群山. 近代汉民族肚兜纹饰刍议[J].饰,2004,(4):40-42 Wang Qunshan. My humble opinion in Modern Chinese bellyband ornamentation[J]. Qrnaments, 2004,(4):40-42
[3]	亓延. 近代齐鲁民间大襟服装的技艺及民俗文化[J]. 纺织学报, 2010,(11):116-121 Qi Yan. Art and folk culture of modern Qilu folk Dajin clothing[J]. Journal of textile, 2010,(11):116-121
[4]	潘建华.女红[M]. 北京：人民美术出版社, 2009.5 Pan Jianhua. Sewing[M]. Beijing: People's Fine Arts Publishing House, 2009.5
[5]	潘建华.云缕心衣[M]. 上海:上海古籍出版社, 2005.7 Pan Jianhua. Cloud wisp vest[M]. Shanghai: Shanghai ancient books publishing house, 2005.7
[6]	王虹. 陕西刺绣肚兜[J]. 上海工艺美术, 2005,(6):94-95 Wang Hong. Shaanxi embroidery bellyband[J]. Shanghai arts and crafts, 2005,(6):94-95
[7]	汤婕妤. 清代肚兜纹样[J]. 艺苑, 2012,(3):99-100 Tang Jieyu. The Qing Dynasty bellyband pattern[J]. Art gallery, 2012,(3):99-100
[8]	黄强. 中国内衣史[M]. 北京:中国纺织出版社, 2008,(1): 116-120 Huang Qiang. Chinese Underwear History[M]. Beijing: China Textile Press, 2008,(1): 116-120
[9]	苏洁. 析肚兜之东风西渐[J]. 武汉科技学院学报, 2005,(2): 9-11 Su Jie. Analysis the East West of bellyband[J]. Journal of Wuhan University of Science and Engineering, 2005,(2): 9-11
[10]	国家文物局博物馆与社会文物司.博物馆纺织品文物保护技术手册[M]. 北京:文物出版社, 2009,(7): 90-93 The department of museum and social cultural relics of the State Bureau of Cultural Relics. The cultural relics protection technology handbook of museum textile[M]. Beijing: Cultural Relics Publishing House, 2009,(7): 90-93

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