关键词: 传统风格夏布, 剑杆织机, 织造工艺, 手工拈绩纱, 环锭纺苎麻纱

Abstract:

Ring spun ramie yarn and rapier-loom are used to produce grass cloth, imstead of traditional hand-made yarn and hand-loom, for the purpose of decreasing the labor cost and increasing the production dfficiency as well as improving the fabric quality. With 27.8 tex ring spun ramie yarns as warp yarns 90.9 tex hand-made traditional yarns as weft yarns, the grass cloth with traditional characteristic can be produced by modern rapier looms. Compared with the fabric made by traditional way, the grass cloth produced by this modern method has smooth and straight edge and surface, the production cost is only 1/3, and the fabric width can be widen up to 150cm. The comparison and test results show that the features of traditional hanmade grass cloth, such as appearace and mechanical performance can be reatined in the grass colth woven by modern technology.

Key words: grass cloth with traditional characteristic, rapier loom, weaving process, hand-made traditional yarn, ring spun ramie yarn