纺织学报 ›› 2016, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (07): 126-130.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

传统荷包边饰艺术分析

  

  • 收稿日期:2015-05-12 修回日期:2016-03-03 出版日期:2016-07-15 发布日期:2016-07-15

Analysis of trimming art of traditional pouch

  • Received:2015-05-12 Revised:2016-03-03 Online:2016-07-15 Published:2016-07-15

摘要:

为了复原传统荷包工艺艺术的边饰工艺,对江南大学民间服饰传习馆、台州刺绣博物馆300余件荷包传世藏品的边饰进行分类研究,发现荷包边饰主要有编织带镶边、布条滚边和股线绣边3种基本形式。其中,织带镶边在葫芦荷包、扇套、眼镜袋等荷包中常见;布条滚边在江南腰包中最为普遍;股线绣边工艺最复杂,在装饰性强的方荷包、圆荷包中应用最多。可见,风格粗犷的大型荷包以布条滚边为主,精细绣花的小型荷包多以绣边装饰,织带镶边则具有一定的装裱作用。荷包边饰艺术融合了传统纹饰设计、配色、编织与刺绣等工艺。边饰选择遵循衬托点缀和功能适宜原则,荷包的造型类别、装饰风格以及制作材料共同决定了荷包边饰类型。

关键词: 传统荷包, 边饰艺术, 制作工艺, 传承

Abstract:

Trimming art of traditional Chinese pouches, which mainly contains three basic forms: braid-strip welt, cloth-strip rolloff and embroidering trimming, is an integration of pattern design, color design, weaving art and embroidery art. The first one commonly used in cucurbit pouch, fan cover, glasses bag and such; the second widely used in waist pouch from South of Yangtze River; the third craft is the most complex and always used in highly decorated square or round purse. Different pouch category, decorating style and materials affect the trimming type and appearance. The traditional pouch production process has long been forgotten, thus its academic research and protective development are necessary, and the various concerning processes need further study.

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