关键词: 合体袖, 内旋结构, 扭力, 结构设计, 立体裁剪, 平面制板

Abstract:

The fit-sleeve achieved from the conventional pattern-making methods couldn’t satisfy the human arm motion comfoet and aesthetic problems. In order to solve this peoblem, the design principles of torsion used in the state of internal rotation and the pattern make of the designs of internal rotation wereanalyzed. combined fashion trends of Europe with the data structure analysis, comprehensive research on the internal rotation state, roundness, angles, cambered angles and the front slopes of the sleeves, were made by draping experiments. The research suggests that the torsion of internal rotation for fit-sleeves with one-piece or two-piece can be generated by changing the length of the front sleeve line, and increasing the front sleeve line curve, and the blocking process is to combined restore the length and form difference. Based on the traditional physical designs and models, the new pattern-make is formed, which improves the traditional structure design and the version of the fit-sleeve, and increases the clothing comfort and beauty.

Key words: fit-sleeve, internal rotation, torsion, structure design, draping, pattern making