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Table of Content

    15 February 2025, Volume 46 Issue 02
        
    • Fiber Materials
      Preparation and performance of photoresponsive long-afterglow phosphorescent fibers with spirooxazine doping
      WANG Xiaoyan, YANG Shukang, XIAO Guowei, DU Jinmei, XU Changhai
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  1-9.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240800301
      Abstract ( 79 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (7916KB) ( 41 )   Save
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      Objective Photoresponsive luminescent fibers represent a promising new type of optical functional material for applications in optics, sensing, and biomedicine. Many efforts have been focused on photochromic fibers and fluorescent fibers to develop photoresponsive fibers. However, long-afterglow luminescent fibers as a type of photoresponsive fibers are still rare, partially related to the process complexity, dependance on advanced technologies, specialized equipment, and high preparation costs.

      Method In this work, spirooxazine (SPO) with photochromic properties and long-afterglow material isophthalic acid (IPA) were introduced into the polyurethane spinning solution through doping. A stimuli responsive luminescent polyurethane fiber was prepared using wet spinning. The effect of doping amount of IPA on the long-afterglow luminescence performance of fibers was investigated. The dynamic multi-color long-afterglow luminescence properties of polyurethane fibers were characterized by the phosphorescence spectra, long-lived phosphorescence lifetime and the afterglow luminescent images.

      Results The fluorescence emission positions of polyurethane fibers with different mass fractions of isophthalic acid (IPA) were found almost the same, with a significant fluorescence emission characteristic peak at 404 nm. However, the fluorescence emission band of the fibers was relatively broad when the doping mass fraction of IPA was below 10%, and it became noticeably narrower when the content exceeded 10%. The phosphorescence emission intensity of polyurethane fibers gradually increased as the mass fractions of IPA increased. However, there was no significant improvement in the phosphorescence intensity, the afterglow duration and the luminance of the polyurethane fibers when the mass fraction of IPA increased from 12.5% to 15.0%, indicating an optimal doping IPA mass concentration was 12.5%. The afterglow luminescent polyurethane fibers displayed a bright green afterglow lasting over 7 s after the UV light was removed. In addition, the long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of polyurethane fibers with different mass fractions of (IPA) was also investigated. IPA emitted at 500 nm with a long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of 1 667 ms when excited at 315 nm. It was found that the long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of polyurethane fibers containing different mass fractions of IPA were almost the same as that of IPA, indicating that the long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of polyurethane fibers doped with IPA was not significantly changed. Additionally, the long-afterglow luminescence color of polyurethane fiber was regulated utilizing the photochromic properties of spirooxazine (SPO) in order to obtain the polyurethane fibers with dynamic multi-color long-afterglow luminescent over time. There was a significant fluorescence emission characteristic peak at 404 nm for the polyurethane fibers co-doped with IPA and SPO (IPA/SPO/polyurethane fibers). While the phosphorescence emission characteristic peak of IPA/SPO/polyurethane fiber had a blue shift, moving from 500 nm to 435 nm, because of the light response characteristic of SPO. IPA/SPO/polyurethane fibers emitted blue fluorescence under 365 nm UV irradiation. After turning off the UV irradiation, the polyurethane fibers exhibited a dynamic process of rapid recovery from blue to white under daylight. In the dark, polyurethane fibers quickly displayed a blue afterglow lasting about 1 s. It turned cyan after 3 s and finally turned green. The luminescence intensity of polyurethane fibers gradually decreased and disappeared after 7 s.

      Conclusion Isophthalic acid (IPA) is proven to be an excellent energy donor for the molecular doping systems. It can be doped into polyurethane spinning to endow polyurethane fiber with long-afterglow luminescence properties. The polyurethane fiber exhibited the best long-afterglow luminescent performance when the addition amount of IPA was 12.5% of the mass concentration of the polyurethane spinning solution. The long-afterglow luminescence color of polyurethane fiber was regulated utilizing the photochromic properties of spirooxazine (SPO). The polyurethane fibers co-doped with IPA and SPO (IPA/SPO/polyurethane fibers) exhibited excellent photochromic and long afterglow luminescence properties. The color of polyurethane fiber quickly changed from colorless to blue upon UV irradiation. After the UV light was turned off, it exhibited a dynamic long afterglow luminescence gradually changing from blue to green, with a luminescence duration of about 7 s. The polyurethane fibers not only provide visual photochromism but also regulate its dynamic multi-color long afterglow performance over time.

      Fabrication and mechanical reinforcement of self-coagulated regenerated silk fibroin micro-nanofiber membranes
      ZHAN Kejing, YANG Xin, ZHANG Yinglong, ZHANG Xin, PAN Zhijuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  10-19.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240907801
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      Objective The dissolution of silk fibroin protein disrupts its multi-order structure, leading to a decline in the mechanical properties of fibers, which in turn limits the application of micro-nano silk fibroin fiber membranes. By reconstructing the micro-mesoscopic structure of regenerated silk fibroin (RSF), this research aims to enhance the mechanical properties of RSF materials, thereby expanding their potential applications in the biomedical field.

      Method In this study, we simulated the microenvironment within silkworm glands and induced liquid-liquid phase separation in the regenerated silk fibroin (RSF) solution through a salt ion system. Silk fibroin nanofibri-llars (SFNF) of various geometric dimensions were employed as reinforcements for the RSF material. By employing electrospinning, we fabricated mechanically enhanced, self-coagulating RSF micro-nano fiber membranes.

      Results Sodium citrate (Na3Citrate) solution was found the optimal system for inducing self-coagulation of RSF aqueous solutions. When the concentration of Na3Citrate exceeded 0.6 mol/L and the concentration of the RSF solution was above 2%, the RSF aqueous solution began to undergo self-coagulation. This process intensified with increasing sodium citrate concentration. However, when the concentrations of both Na3Citrate and RSF were excessively high (i.e., RSF above 16%, Na3Citrate above 1.2 mol/L), the degree of self-coagulation became excessive, leading to the rapid formation of flaky precipitates within 20 minutes of solution preparation. With increasing concentration of Na3Citrate, the entanglement of RSF macromolecular chains became more compact, leading to an increase in the β-sheet structure of the RSF solution from the initial 33.8% to 51.1%. This enhancement in internal flow resistance resulted in increased viscosity of the RSF solution, thereby improving its spinnability. At a Na3Citrate concentration of 1.0 mol/L, a voltage of 22 kV, a flow rate of 0.2 mL/h, and a spinning distance of 16 cm, the fiber diameter and coefficient of variation (CV) were minimized, suggesting good spinning stability and a high specific surface area of the fibers. After incorporating SFNF of varying geometric dimensions, the spinning solution retained good spinnability. Compared to the RSF fiber membrane, the mechanical properties of the RSF-SFNF micro-nano fiber membrane were significantly enhanced. The tensile strength of RSF-SFNF130 was increased from 0.46 MPa to 0.49 MPa, and the elongation at break of SF-SFNF100 was improved from 2.06% to 3.54%. The ethanol treatment caused no significant changes on the surface of the fiber membrane. The content of β-sheet structure within the fiber membrane was increased to 50.0%, which ameliorated the solubility issue of RSF fiber membranes in water. The hemolysis rate was 2.58%, demonstrating good blood compatibility.

      Conclusion Within the salt ion system, Na3Citrate exhibits the most potent induction effect on the liquid-liquid phase separation of RSF. The β-sheet structure of the RSF solution increases from an initial 33.8% to 51.1%, which correspondingly enhances the overall viscosity and spinnability of the RSF solution. The incorporation of SFNF significantly improves the mechanical properties of RSF micro-nanofiber membranes, where the elongation at break is increased from 2.06% to 3.54%, and the tensile strength is elevated from 0.46 MPa to 0.49 MPa. Furthermore, the fiber membrane demonstrates good blood compatibility with a hemolysis rate of 2.58%, indicating promising potential for application in the field of wound dressing.

      Electrospun polyacrylonitrile separator for self-charging supercapacitors
      ZHAO Chao, JIN Xin, WANG Wenyu, ZHU Zhengtao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  20-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240907701
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      Objective This study aims to address the poor hydrophilicity, low voltage, and rigid structure of piezoelectric separators in self-charging systems that lead to energy loss. The research focuses on substituting traditional polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) with polyacrylonitrile (PAN) piezoelectric nanofiber membranes in self-charging supercapacitor (SCSPC), in order to enhance the piezoelectric and self-charging performance of the devices. This innovation is crucial for advancing flexible and integrated energy storage solutions.

      Method The study employed electrospinning technology to produce PAN and PVDF nanofiber membranes. The process involved the polarization and stretching of PAN fibers to achieve excellent hydrophilicity, high piezoelectric performance, and superior mechanical properties. The electrochemical performance of the resulting SCSPC was evaluated through cyclic voltammetry (CV), galvanostatic charge-discharge (GCD) tests, and piezoelectric output measurements. The structural and morphological properties of the fibers were analyzed using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and dynamic contact angle testing.

      Results The PAN nanofibers exhibited significant improvements over PVDF in several aspects. For morphology and mechanical properties, the PAN fiber membrane had a uniform diameter (450 nm), higher porosity (60%), and greater mechanical strength (8.2 MPa) compared to the PVDF counterpart (2.7 MPa). The higher porosity facilitated efficient electrolyte infiltration, and the superior mechanical strength ensured durability under mechanical stress. In terms of hydrophilicity, the PAN membranes demonstrated exceptional hydrophilicity with a contact angle of 0°, compared to the hydrophobic nature of PVDF whose contact angle 121°. This feature would enhance the ionic conductivity within the SCSPC. On piezoelectric performance, the PAN-based devices generated a higher piezoelectric voltage output (4.4 V) and maintained stability over 20 000 cycles, while the PVDF devices showed lower output of 2.9 V and reduced stability after 13 000 cycles. For electrochemical performance, the PAN-based SCSPC exhibited a high specific capacitance of 138 mF/cm2 at a current density of 2 mA/cm2, significantly outperforming the PVDF-based SCSPC whose specific capacitance was 42 mF/cm2. The designed PAN-based devices retained 94.2% of their capacitance after 5 000 compression cycles, compared to 55.1% for the PVDF-based devices uder the same cyclic loading. In terms of self-charging capability, the self-charging voltage of the PAN-based SCSPC reached 132.8 mV under mechanical stress, far exceeding that of the PVDF-based systems (84.6 mV) and traditional piezoelectric nanogenerators with rectifiers (32.3 mV). This demonstrates efficient mechanical-to-electrical energy conversion without additional rectifiers, reducing energy loss.

      Conclusion The study highlights the superior performance of the PAN piezoelectric nanofiber membranes over the traditional PVDF membranes in SCSPC. The enhanced hydrophilicity, mechanical strength, piezoelectric output, and electrochemical stability of PAN-based devices demonstrate their potential for flexible, high-performance energy storage applications. The findings suggest that the PAN nanofiber membranes are promising candidates for developing advanced self-charging technologies, overcoming the limitations of conventional materials and paving the way for practical applications in wearable and portable electronics. This research provides a foundational understanding for the future design and implementation of efficient, self-powered energy systems.

      Preparation and properties of humidity-responsive cellulose/polyurethane composites based on waste textiles
      YANG Lu, MENG Jiaguang, CHEN Yuqing, ZHI Chao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  26-34.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240904901
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      Objective With the improvement of life quality and hence the increasing demand for textiles, a large amount of textile waste is generated globally each year. Recycling and reusing this waste is crucial for developing low-cost, sustainable, high-performance, and renewable materials. This study focuses on creating humidity-responsive composite materials from recycled waste contton and polyurethane (PU) textiles, aiming for high-end applications.

      Method A cellulose/polyurethane composite film with humidity-responsive properties was developed using cellulose extracted from waste textiles. The process began with the pretreatment of waste cotton fabrics through bleaching and activation. Afterward, the fabrics were dissolved in LiCl/dimethylacetamide(DMAc) solvents, regenerated into a cellulose film, and dried. The cellulose film was then mechanically crushed to produce uniform cellulose powder (the average particle size is 0.17 mm). Next, the cellulose powder and polyurethane material were separately dispersed in a dimethylformamide(DMF) solution. Among them, the mass fraction of cellulose powder is 0, 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, respectively. These were then mixed in a mold to form the cellulose/polyurethane composite film. Last, the morphology characteristics of the composite film were observed using scanning electron microscopy and the mechanical properties of the composite film were tested using a universal testing machine. In addition, based on the mechanism of humidity response of the cotton/PU composites, the humidity responsiveness of the composite film was analyzed.

      Results Humidity-responsive cellulose/polyurethane films were successfully prepared using the mold forming method. The microstructure of the composite film shows rough surface characteristics, which is because the addition of cellulose filler changes the internal structure of the composite film and generates a new surface area on the surface of the composite film. Furthermore, chemical structural analysis further confirmed the effective incorporation of cellulose into the PU matrix during making the cellulose/polyurethane composites. A cellulose/polyurethane film with a thickness of (0.18±0.02) mm was shown to easily withstood a weight of 1 000 g without being damaged. This capacity is 34 000 times higher than the weight of the film itself, and showed good mechanical properties. This is due to the tight bond between the polyurethane matrix and the cellulose powder, which can support the good mechanical properties of the composite film. In addition, the cellulose/polyurethane composite film demonstrated a tensile strength of 19.23 MPa. This strength is believed to be from the abundant hydrogen bonds present in the film, which enhance its overall integrity. By introducing cellulose materials, the composite film exhibited excellent humidity driving performance. Cellulose polymer chains form layered networks through intermolecular and intramolecular bonds, facilitated by the abundant hydroxyl groups in cellulose macromolecules. This unique structure imparts hygroscopic and expansive properties to cellulose fibers, causing them to react to water molecules. As humidity increases, water molecules quickly diffuse into the composite film, which allows cellulose to absorb significant amounts of water, causing it to expand, providing the driving force for the deformation of the film. As the content of cellulose continued to increase, the response bending angle of the film became larger, while the time needed to reach the maximum bending angle was shortened. When the mass fraction of cellulose was 30%, it showed good molding effect and driving performance. Specifically, it showed a rapid response time of 15 s, a recovery time of 32 s, and a bending angle of 136.3°. This excellent humidity response is due to the hydrophilic nature of cellulose and the elasticity of polyurethane, which together facilitated the absorption and desorption of water molecules.

      Conclusion The humidity switch can expand or contract as cellulose absorbs or desorbs water molecules. This process generates a driving force for film deformation. Consequently, it effectively enables reversible shape actuation and recovery. This occurs by desorbing or absorbing water molecules, allowing for reversible shape driving and recovery. Additionally, the composite film was applied to simulate a "mechanical gripper" and successfully completed the grasping operation of objects. This method of reusing waste textiles has opened up new avenues for the application of cellulose materials in the fields of intelligent driving. The rapid humidity-responsive composite films have great application potential in intelligent drive structures.

      Preparation and properties of composite proton-exchange membrane based on polyvinylidene fluoride/polydopamine/UiO-66 nanofibers
      ZHANG Xinwei, LI Ganghua, LI Linwei, LIU Hong, TIAN Mingwei, WANG Hang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  35-42.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240704001
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      Objective Proton-exchange membrane (PEM) as a key component of fuel cells represent an important area of research that drives the rapid development of new energy technologies. The exchange of protons depends on the proton carriers and pathways within the membrane, making the optimization of these two structures crucial for achieving efficient proton transport. Current research primarily focuses on simple functional structures of metal-organic frameworks (MOF) and nanofibers, with slow improvements in proton conductivity. To tackle the challenges associated with proton transport in PEMs, a strategy has been put forth that involves the creation of a multi-scale micro-phase interface structure and multifunctional acid-base ion domains. The multi-scale architecture of the MOF composite nanofibers (physical microenvironment) and the functional ion domains situated between the MOF, fiber matrix, and polymer matrix (chemical microenvironment) markedly influence the performance of the proton exchange membrane. The study also investigates the synergistic effects of these physicochemical structures on proton transport.

      Method Polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) nanofibers were prepared using electrospinning technology. Following this, the nanofibers were subjected to a polydopamine (PDA) chemical treatment within a buffer solution, succeeded by the in situ growth of a metal-organic framework (MOF) under conditions of high temperature and pressure. This process yielded nanofibers featuring a multi-scale micro-phase interface structure and multifunctional acid-base ion domains. Finally, a dense composite proton exchange membrane was fabricated using a sulfonated polyphenylsulfone (SPSF) solution through a compatible immersion method.

      Results The results of EDS mapping showed that PDA was chemically bonded onto the nanofibers. Scanning electron microscopy images clearly revealed the presence of MOF particles, indicating good results from the in-situ growth treatment. Performance tests of the composite membrane demonstrated that the multi-scale micro-nanofiber structure significantly increased the interfacial interaction area of the micro-phases and effectively modulated the proton transport sites within the membrane through acid-base ion interactions, thereby enhancing the overall performance of the composite proton exchange membrane. The prepared proton exchange membrane exhibited an improved water uptake of 55.56%, with swelling limit of 18.32%. The proton conductivity of the composite membrane reached 0.165 S/cm, representing an increase of 100.97% compared to the SPSF membrane. The methanol permeability coefficient was significantly reduced with as low as 2.139 × 10-7 cm2/s of methanol permeability, achieving an 11-fold increase in selectivity compared to the SPSF membrane.

      Conclusion The multi-scale microphase interface structure based on in-situ growth of MOF nanofibers and the synergistic construction strategy of multifunctional acid alkali ion domains is proven to effectively enhance the comprehensive performance of proton exchange membranes from both structural and functional perspectives, and promote the development of the next generation of novel nanofiber composite proton exchange membranes.

      Regulation of electronic properties of cellulose polymer by oxygen atom doping
      WANG Enqi, GUO Mengsheng, XU Ruliu, CHEN Fengqi, FAN Wei, MIAO Yaping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  43-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240906701
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      Objective Cellulose is a complex macromolecular polysaccharide formed by glucose units connected by β-1,4-glycosidic bonds. It is a natural polymer compound primarily found in plant cell walls, gaining attention for its unique biocompatibility, renewability, and environmental friendliness. The molecular chains of cellulose can intertwine like ropes, forming various structural morphologies. Cellulose has several allomorphic crystalline forms, which lead to diverse physical properties. Generally, at the molecular level, cellulose has various forms of external defects, including disorder in molecular chain arrangement and the presence of voids, cracks, and impurities in its microstructure. On the one hand, the defects would weaken the mechanical properties of celluloses and severely affect the chemical stability and reactivity. On the other hand, the defects in the cellulose such as impurities change the electrical properties. As one example, the doping of oxygen (O) in the cellulose would transform the polymer from an insulator to a semiconductor. However, the basic mechanisms at the electronic scale of the cellulose are still unclear.

      Method To deepen the understanding of the changes in electrical characteristics of cellulose after doping, in this work, we investigated the regulation of electrical properties by O doping through the first-principles calculations based on the density functional theory. Calculations were carried out using the Vienna Ab-initio simulation pack-age (VASP). The energy cutoff for the plane wave basis set was set to 450 eV, and the interactions between ionic cores and valence electrons were described using the projector augmented wave (PAW) method. For the exchange-correlation functional, the generalized gradient approximation (GGA) with the Perdew-Burke-Ernzerhof (PBE) functional was employed. During structural relaxation, the force convergence criterion was set to less than 0.01 eV/Å, and the total energy convergence criterion was set to less than 1.0 × 10-5 eV.

      Results The results indicate that the perfect cellulose has a band gap of 4.938 eV, showing almost no conductivity and exhibiting insulating properties. The conduction band minimum is located to the left of the high-symmetry point D, while the valence band maximum is situated to the right of point D, indicating an indirect band gap. The energy bands are more curved between 5 eV and 8 eV, while they are relatively flat between 0 eV and -8 eV, showing a higher degree of electron localization. When carbon (C) atoms in cellulose were replaced by oxygen (O) atoms, significant changes occurred in its electrical properties. Secondly, when the O2 atom replaced C1 or C3, the band gap of the system decreased significantly, exhibiting semiconductor characteristics. The interaction was changed accordingly between the replaced atom and surrounding atoms, resulting in enhanced electronic localization. The density of states was relatively flat between 0 eV and -10 eV, with a high degree of electronic localization primarily contributed by the p orbitals of O1 and O2. Thirdly, when the O2 atom replaced C2 or C4, the valence band of the system shifted toward the conduction band, even surpassing the Fermi level, displaying half-metallic characteristics. Compared to undoped cellulose, the density of states near the Fermi level changed significantly, primarily contributed by the O2 atom, but with a smaller effect on the conduction band. When the O2 atom replaced C5, the system still behaved as an insulator, the band gap of the system increased and the energy bands remain relatively curved between 5 eV and 6 eV, while being flat between 0 eV and -9 eV, with a high degree of electronic localization.

      Conclusion In summary, the replacement of C atom in cellulose with O atom significantly alters its electronic properties due to the higher electronegativity of O, which tends to form stable covalent bonds with surrounding C atoms, thereby limiting electron transitions. However, different substitution sites exhibit distinct properties. Therefore, when preparing and functionally modifying cellulose, the substitution sites of O atom should be given special consideration. By applying doping effects to cellulose, its electrical properties can be significantly altered, offering new insights for the application of cellulose in the engineering field of electronic devices.

      Melt-blown process and structural characterization of bio-typha polylactic acid medical protective materials
      ZHAO Ke, ZHANG Heng, CHENG Wensheng, ZHEN Qi, BU Qingyun, CUI Jingqiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  51-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240802901
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      Objective Medical protective materials serve as the last defense line for the safety of medical and healthcare personnel. A densely packed micro-porous structure with high directional alignment plays a significant role in preventing the penetration of liquids. This paper reports a study on the structural design of the melt-blown microfibrous material inspired by the typha, and experimentally analyzes the lophotrichous structure parameters and medical protective performance of this material. The aim is to achieve a green and efficient medical protective material.

      Method In this study, we utilized polylactic acid (PLA) modified by paraffin wax (PW) blending as the primary material, and fabricated lophotrichous structural PLA microfibrous membranes via the in-situ drawing melt-blown process. Simultaneously, the sample structures were characterized using scanning electron microscopy. Additionally, we conducted experimental analyses on the medical protective performance using liquid contact angle measuring instrument, fully automatic hydrostatic pressure tester, and W3-type cup method water vapor permeability tester.

      Results In terms of micro-morphology, the PLA microfibrous fabrics exhibited a lophotrichous high-orientation structure along the direction of the stretching force. This structure provided orientation for liquid rolling on its surface. Moreover, an increase in the drafting ratios and the PW mass caused reduction in fiber diameter distribution and orientation angle distribution of the samples, providing a dense, porous structural foundation for easy liquid rolling on the surface. Concurrently, the characteristic parameters of the lophotrichous structure, such as the microfibers ratio, the oriented distribution, and feature spacing, were characterized by the features of PLA microfibrous fabrics with a fiber diameter less than 3 μm and an orientation angle less than 30°. A quadratic regression equation was established to describe the variation of these lophotrichous structural parameters with process parameters which had a confidence level of 0.97. The results indicated that when the drafting ratios was 3.0, the microfibers ratio increased to 18.88%, and the longitudinal static contact angle and static water pressure increased to 147° and 2 721 Pa, respectively. Compared to samples with the PW mass of 1%, the inclination angle and water vapor permeability of the PW-5% sample decreased by 48.36% and 10.35%, respectively. As the drafting ratios increased from 1.8 to 3.0, the oriented distribution in the samples increased from 35.01% to 63.24%, while the horizontal static contact angle and static water pressure increased from 140° and 2 083 Pa to 155° and 2 597 Pa, representing increases of 10.71% and 24.68%, respectively.

      Conclusion The PLA microfibrous membranes with a lophotrichous highly oriented structure, prepared using the in-situ drawing melt-blown process, have tremendous application potential in the medical protective field. Among these, the PLA microfibrous fabrics, due to their dense pore structure, exhibit superior liquid barrier properties and outstanding biodegradability, meeting the requirements as green and efficient medical protective materials. This offers reference for the structural design of medical protective materials.

      Preparation and properties of porous sound absorption materials made from polyester/ethylene-propylene fibers
      WANG Rongrong, ZHOU Zhou, FENG Xiang, SHEN Ying, LIU Feng, XING Jian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  61-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240908101
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      Objective Noise pollution is listed as one of the four major pollutants in the world, along with water pollution, air pollution, and solid waste pollution, which seriously endangers human health. Therefore, it is of great importance to study sound absorption materials with simple processes and universal applicability. PET/ES fiber porous sound absorption nonwoven materials were prepared by using polyethylene terephthalate fiber (PET) and polyethylene/polypropylene bicomponent fiber (ES) as raw materials, using the needling process in combination with hot air bonding technology.

      Method PET and ES fibers of different ratios (9∶1, 8∶2, 7∶3, 6∶4, 5∶5 for PET/ES fibers) were mixed, and the fibers were weighed in different qualities (20 g, 40 g, 60 g, 80 g, 100 g), and the fibers were opened, carded, and then needled to obtain the PET/ES composite fiber mesh. The PET/ES composite fiber porous sound absorption nonwoven material was prepared by the hot air bonding with regulated hot melt temperature (135 ℃ and 145 ℃) and bonding time (10, 20, and 30 min). With a scanning electron microscope, pore size analyzer, electronic fabric strength machine, and noise vibration test system, the morphological characteristics, pore size and its distribution, mechanical properties, and sound absorption properties of the PET/ES fiber porous sound absorption nonwoven materials were characterized.

      Results PET and ES fibers had good microscopic morphology, no obvious cross-linking between fibers, and the distribution of fiber diameters was more concentrated. The melting point of PET fibers was at 250 ℃, and the ES fibers had two melting points at 129 ℃ and 160 ℃, respectively, which indicated that in the ES fibers with the skin-core structure the polyethylene fibers (PE) were on the surface layer and polypropylene fibers (PP) were in the core layer. The mechanical properties of the sound absorption materials were significantly improved with the increase of hot air bonding temperature and bonding time (2 044% compared to the pre-hot reinforcement). The prepared sound absorption materials all had high porosity (above 80%, up to 91.22%), and the porosity tended to increase with the increase of fiber feeding and ES fiber content. In addition, the average pore size and standard deviation of pore size of the sound absorption materials decreased with the increase of fiber feeding and ES fiber content (up to 83.16% for pore size and 82.26% for standard deviation of pore size). The mechanical properties of the material are affected by the ratio and feeding amount of PET/ES fibers. An increase in fiber feeding caused increase in the surface density and thickness of the material, resulting in a significant increase in tensile stress of the sound absorption material. The increase in ES fiber content resulted in an increase in the number of bonding points between neighboring fibers within the fiber network, which led improvement of the structural stability of the fiber network, and enhancement of the tensile stress of the material. The ratio of PET/ES fibers and the amount of feeding had a significant effect on the sound absorption coefficient of the material, which was more obvious at low frequencies when the proportion of ES fibers was low, and the sound absorption coefficient of the material at high frequencies was significantly improved with the increase of ES fiber content.

      Conclusion In summary, the prepared PET/ES fiber porous sound absorption materials demonstrated high porosity, and the mechanical properties of the sound absorption materials are significantly improved with the increase of the hot air bonding temperature and bonding time. In addition, the ratio of PET/ES fibers and the amount of feeding had a significant effect on the sound absorption coefficient of the material, which was better at low frequencies when the proportion of ES fibers was low, and the sound absorption coefficient of the material at high frequencies was significantly improved with the increase of ES fiber content. The materials developed in this study require a simple preparation process and demonstrate strong universality, which provide reference significance for the development of new multi-frequency band sound absorption materials.

      Textile Engineering
      Influence of fiber channel symmetry on dual-feed-opening rotor spinning flow field and yarn characteristics
      LI Ling, SHI Qianqian, TIAN Shun, WANG Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  69-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240904101
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      Objective The design of the double fiber channels in dual-feed-opening (DFO) rotor spinning technology broadens the range of materials for spinning. The fiber channel is a key component that connects the opening roller and the rotor in the rotor spinning unit. However, studies on the airflow field and yarn characteristics of DFO rotor spinning when the spatial positions of the two fibers channels are not symmetrically distributed have not been reported to date.

      Method Building upon previous research on DFO rotor spinning with a fiber channel angle of 180°, this study constructed a control equation system for the airflow problem inside a DFO rotor spinning unit based on the Realizable k-ε turbulence model, and discretized and solved the control equation system for unstructured grids using the finite volume method and SIMPLE algorithm. Based on the established numerical model, this study delved into the impact of the symmetry of the two fiber channels on the internal airflow field distribution within the DFO rotor spinning unit. Additionally, image processing techniques and experimental testing were utilized to compare and analyze the specific effects of the symmetry of the fiber channels on yarn characteristics.

      Results The fluent module in Ansys 19.0 software was used to simulate the internal flow field of DFO rotor spinning units with fiber transport channel angles of 180° and 110°, respectively. The convergence residual was set to 0.000 1.Simulation results indicated that the tapered structure of the fiber channels caused the external airflow to accelerate continuously as it enters the two channels, reaching a maximum velocity of over 100 m/s at the channel outlets. When the two fiber channels were asymmetric, the outlets were in close proximity, and collision of the two high-speed airflow exiting the channels were observed,which resulted in a noticeable low-velocity airflow zone between the outlets. The airflow underwent significant energy transformation within the fiber channels, with a decrease in pressure potential energy and an increase in kinetic potential energy. The high-speed airflow exiting the channels impacted the rotor's sliding surface, creating a localized high negative pressure area. The asymmetry of the two fiber channels caused the airflow, upon entering the rotor, to concentrate more in the areas near the two fiber outlets, leading to a pronounced negative pressure high-pressure zone. When the centers of the fiber channels were symmetric, the two types of fibers entered the rotor condensing trough in a 1∶1 ratio, and their movement and arrangement were relatively orderly and uniform, so the area occupied by the two types of fibers on the yarn surface was very close to the theoretical value of 1. After the fiber exchanged feeding method, the curves of the two samples showed little difference. When the two fiber outlets were not centrally symmetrically distributed, the distance between the two channel outlets was very close. During the process of two types of fibers flowing out from the two outlets and entering the rotor, the high-speed rotation of the rotor caused a covering phenomenon between the fibers flowing out from the two outlets. According to the image processing results of the yarn appearance, the fibers flowing out from outlet 2 were more likely to cover the fibers in outlet 1, resulting in a distinctive yarn appearance. The tensile properties, evenness, hairiness index, and number of defects of DFO rotor spun yarns with symmetric fiber channels were superior. When the angles of the fiber channels are the same, changing the fiber feeding method had little effect on the yarn performance.

      Conclusion The internal airflow velocity and static pressure distribution in the fiber channels in the two types of rotor spinning units showed certain similarities. However, when the fiber channels were not centrally symmetric, the airflow distribution within the rotor became unstable and uneven. Due to the close proximity of the two channel outlets, high-speed airflows were prone to collision, leading to the formation of local negative high-pressure zones, which could cause fiber entanglement and affect the orderly arrangement of fibers in the yarn. A balanced flow field distribution is conducive to the orderly arrangement of fibers, reducing fiber entanglement, and improving yarn quality. In the rotor spinning device with a 110° channel angle, fibers entering from channel 2 tend to be distributed more on the yarn surface, and there was a difference in the area occupied by the two types of fibers, which was related to the uneven distribution of the airflow field within the rotor. The study confirmed the feasibility of DFO rotor spinning with non-centrally symmetric fibers transfer channels, providing a theoretical basis for the development of new types of rotor yarns with unique appearance characteristics.

      Performance analysis of embedded low-torque composite yarns based on self-twisting spinning
      ZHANG Ruicheng, ZHANG Wenqing, LÜ Zhe, XU Duo, LIU Keshuai, XU Weilin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  78-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240907501
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      Objective The yarn quality produced from a single component often faces limitations imposed by the material itself. These limitations can be addressed by utilizing a combination of multiple materials to enhance the performance. Composite yarns are typically manufactured using methods such as ring spinning, which results in high twist rates and substantial residual torque. These factors contribute to an increased number of kinks which necessitates additional processes to reduce residual torque, thereby incurring higher time and resource costs. In contrast, self-twisting spinning leverages the principle of de-twisting during yarn formation, naturally reducing residual torque and offering significant research potential.

      Method This study utilized a composite filament approach to investigate the properties of self-twisted yarns, aiming to control the yarn structure and produce low-torque, high-quality composite yarns. Wool fiber and nylon filament served as the raw materials, the improved S300 self-twist spinning system was used for large-scale manufacture of embedded in-phase self-twisted yarns and heterogeneous self-twisted yarns. A stress analysis was conducted on the in-phase self-twisted yarns to examine the influence of the angle and spacing of the embedded filaments on the self-twist torque of the composite yarns. Additionally, the effects of filament and roving spacing on the yarn formation performance of both types of self-twisted yarns were analyzed.

      Results Eight groups of spun yarns were rigorously tested using 3-D microscope, evenness tester, hairiness tester, strength tester, and hanging kink test. When the spacing between the filament and the roving was set at 0 mm, the resulting yarns formed a core structure, exhibiting poor quality due to uncontrolled hairiness. At a spacing of 2 mm, the yarns became wrapped yarns, in which the filament exerted inward pressure on the fibers to control the surface fibers and enhance internal strength. This configuration provided optimal strength and evenness properties, validating the effectiveness of the compound twisting followed by retwisting yarn formation scheme. As the spacing between the filament and roving increased, the orientation of the filament was decreased, leading to improvement of the wrapping effect on the fibers and enhancement of the surface hairiness control. However, the filament struggled to maintain internal tensile resistance, resulting in a gradual decline in strength. Furthermore, an increase in the self-twisting torque of the embedded composite self-twisted yarns led to non-uniform twisting distribution, adversely affecting the yarn evenness. When the spacing became excessively large, the filament and roving could not effectively compound under the grip of the twisting roller. On the contrary, they converged at the hook, resulting in a unique yarn formation structure characterized by an initial twist followed by a retwist. In this specific configuration, referred to as Scheme D, both filaments periodically migrated toward the same side. During half a twist cycle, the left filament moved away from the fibers while the right filament remained close, causing the right single yarn to wrap around the yarn body and form a composite single yarn. The left single yarn twisted with the composite yarn, but the filament could not regulate the internal and external transfer of fibers effectively.

      Conclusion The embedded self-twisted yarns significantly reduced the residual torque to below one kink in composite yarns. The optimal configuration for achieving superior tensile properties and yarn structure was identified at a filament-roving spacing of 2 mm. In comparison, heterogeneous self-twisted yarns exhibited better evenness and tensile properties than the homogeneous self-twisted yarns. Therefore, the heterogeneous self-twisting spinning method is preferred in practical production. When the spacing between filament and roving exceeded 6 mm, achieving a tensile homophase self-twisted yarns displayed a unique structure with both core and wrapped characteristics, achieving a strength of 7.39 cN/tex, surpassing that of close heterogeneous self-twisted yarns.

      Three-dimensional simulation of yarn core based on two planer mirrors
      MA Yunjiao, WANG Lei, PAN Ruru
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  86-91.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240904401
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      Objective Market demand for textiles is ever-increasingly diversified, and the performance of yarns, as an early product in textile production, impact final product quality. It is feasible to simulate the performance and structure of yarns under different materials and processes, which can be used to guide the flexible production of textiles. This endeavor is crucial as it helps optimize the production process, reduce costs, and improve the quality and consistency of textile products, thereby enhancing the competitiveness of the textile industry.

      Method Based on the imaging principle of two-planar mirrors, this research proposed a three-dimensional simulation method for yarn cores. The yarn's real image and four virtual images from mirror reflection were captured as multi-perspective images, which represent the five views of yarn. After applying the Otsu thresholding, morphological opening and dilation methods, the smooth yarn core binary images were acquired. Next, five circles were drawn with the widths of yarn core in five perspective images as diameters, respectively. Then, according to the geometric principle of mirror reflection, the circles obtained from each perspective were moved to fit the yarn core cross-section.

      Results To verify the effectiveness and accuracy of the proposed method, the cross-sectional area and the coefficient of variation of the reconstructed yarn model were calculated. Given the widespread use of the USTER® TESTER 5 in yarn appearance evaluation, we decided to compare the measured values obtained from our method with its measurement results. This comparison serves as a means to evaluate the accuracy of the proposed method’s modeling at the two-dimensional. In addition, the measured values were also compared with three-dimensional measurement method to evaluate the effectiveness of the proposed method at the three-dimensional level. At the two-dimensional level comparison, the measured values of the proposed method were compared with the USTER®TESTER 5 measuement results. The cross-sectional area of the reconstructed three-dimensional model of yarn was measured. The results showed that the correlation coefficient between the average cross-sectional area of the reconstructed yarn model and the diameter measured by the USTER®TESTER 5 was as high as 0.996, and the correlation coefficient between the coefficient of variation of cross-sectional area and the coefficient of variation of the uniformity of the yarn measured by the USTER®TESTER 5 was 0.834. At the three-dimensional level comparison, the results were compared with the three-dimensional measurement method instead. The correlation coefficient between the measured values of the proposed method and the three-dimensional measurement method was 0.965, which indicates the positive correlation of the measured values. In addition, the uniformity of short segments can be observed from the change in area. By using the proposed method, the task of simulating the three-dimensional model of yarn cpuld be fulfilled, and the synthesized three-dimensional model was close to the irregular shape of a cylinder, which could effectively reflect the unevenness of yarn. This fully demonstrated the feasibility of the reconstruction method for the three-dimensional model of yarn core.

      Conclusion This paper presents a method for constructing a three-dimensional model of yarn based on the assumption of irregular circular cross-section of yarn. The obtained results demonstrate a high correlation with the USTER®TESTER 5 at the two-dimensional level and a positive correlation with another three-dimensional method at the three-dimensional level, thereby clearly indicating the effectiveness of the proposed method. In addition, the simulated yarn model enables the observation of structural characteristics from different angles, allowing for acquisition of more detailed information and thus presenting excellent application prospects. However, a major drawback of this method is relatively slow for reconstruction, which needs to be furthrt improved. Such a method has significant implications for the textile industry, as it provides a more accurate and detailed way to analyze and understand the properties of yarns, which can ultimately lead to improved product quality and performance.

      Hyper basis function-based adaptive inverse non-singular method for constant-tension yarn transport
      WANG Luojun, PENG Laihu, XIONG Xuyi, LI Yang, HU Xudong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  92-99.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240904301
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      Objective In high-speed and precision knitting process, the complex dynamic behavior of yarn transmission not only affects the accuracy of tension control, but also increases the complexity and maintenance cost of the system. It is hence necessary to explore new control methods to improve the accuracy and reliability of yarn tension stability control. Sensorless tension control method reduces the dependence on sensors. By optimizing the structure and material of the yarn transmission mechanism, the influence of adverse factors such as vibration and friction is reduced, and the production efficiency and product quality of the circular machine are improved.

      Method The yarn motion during knitting was decoupled into two independent systems using the inversion method, and an inverse non-singular terminal sliding mode controller was designed to improve the sliding mode surface to make the yarn real-time tension error converge quickly in a short time. The hyper basis function (HBF) neural network was introduced into the interval state observer of the yarn transmission system, which was close to the random response caused by the changes of parameters such as weft storage radius and the inertia of the knitting area.

      Results The designed HBF neural network interval observer was used to estimate the boundary value of the moving yarn system. After the operation of the three controllers, the controller designed in this research was shown to stabilize the tension in 1.6, which is significantly better than the 3.5 s of the conventional sliding mode and the 2.4 s described in related literature, and the adjustment time was reduced by 57% and 33% respectively. The experimental results showed that the sliding mode controller designed in this paper has faster response and higher tracking accuracy, which is significantly better than the other two controllers. The traditional proportional-integral-differential (PID) controller performed the worst for the yarn relaxation problem when the moving yarn system is started, while the improved sliding mode controller can stabilize the winding speed faster. In addition, the terminal sliding mode controller designed in this paper can quickly restore the tension stability after the random disturbance is added in the 8th s of the system movement, showing excellent robust performance. The sliding mode controller quickly converges the tension error to zero within 1.6 s after the start-up of the winding system. Compared with the other three controllers, the sliding mode controller has the optimal response speed and adjustment ability, ensuring that the tension control system can recover to steady state operation in a short time. It obviously improves the steady-state operation ability and dynamic adjustment ability of the yarn system, so as to realize the constant tension control of the yarn. Through experiments, it can be verified that the method in this paper can quickly and accurately follow the change of the target tension, and has low sensitivity to external interference. Even in the face of the sudden change of the tension setting, it can effectively inhibit the overshoot, show stronger stability and response speed, and has better robustness, faster response speed and higher control accuracy in the actual production environment, which is more in line with the production requirements.

      Conclusion The relationship between yarn tension and motion speed is established by modeling the motion yarn system of yarn feeder and loop forming mechanism. The neural network technology is used to approximate the influence of unknown time-varying parameters, and an interval observer is constructed based on it to realize the effective observation of key state variables. The traditional nonsingular fast terminal sliding mode controller is improved. By designing a new sliding mode surface function, not only the finite time convergence of tracking error is guaranteed, but also the convergence rate is accelerated. Combined with the inversion control algorithm, the robustness and stability of the system are significantly enhanced. Simulation and experimental results show that the proposed RBF neural network interval observer can accurately track the system state and improve the control accuracy. Compared with the traditional method, the improved sliding mode controller shows faster error convergence speed and higher response efficiency.

      Simulation of flow field and fiber straightening in reconstructed fiber transport channel in rotor spinning
      ZHANG Dingtiao, WANG Qianru, QIU Fang, LI Fengyan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  100-105.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240906601
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      Objective The geometry of the fiber transport channel in rotor spinning will change the distribution of the internal airflow field, and the airflow field greatly influences morphological changes in fiber movement. To study the influence of the fiber transport channel on the straightening effect of hooked fiber, the distribution state of the airflow field in the channel before and after reconstruction was simulated by using the fluid mechanics numerical simulation method.

      Method A Laval tube fiber transport channel model was designed using SolidWorks software, and airflow motion state inside the reconstructed channel was simulated by Fluent, and the flexible hooked fiber model was established by EDEM. Based on the airflow field data obtained from Fluent simulation calculation, combined with the solid-liquid two-phase flow coupling method in EDEM, the shape change of hooked fibers in the airflow of the fiber transport channel was simulated to study the effect of different types of hooks on the straightening process of hooked fibers.

      Results The maximum air velocity difference between the reconstructed fiber transport channel and the original is 6.63%, but high-speed airflow in the reconstructed fiber channel is relatively large, especially the area of high-speed airflow L3 section near the outlet is obviously larger than the original fiber channel outlet. When improving the movement of fibers in the fiber transport channel, the hooked fiber reached the high-speed airflow area earlier and the speed of the fiber head was increased, beneficial to the straightening of the hooked fiber. The hooked fiber in the reconstructed fiber channel was basically straight, while the fiber in the original fiber channel was not straight even when fiber reached the exit. According to the result of the straightness, the airflow field distribution in the reconstructed fiber transport channel was more conducive to the straightening of the hooked fiber. In comparison with the tradiational fiber transport channel, straightness of trailing right hooked fibers Ⅱ is increased from 88.70% to 97.80%.

      Conclusion The airflow field of the reconstructed fiber transport channel in rotor spinning has a larger area of high-speed airflow compared with that of the original channel, which is more effective in accelerating the straightening of hooked fibers. Hooked fibers in the reconstructed fiber transport channel reach the channel outlet earlier and straighten better than in the original channel. The straightening effect of the reconstructed channel on the trailing hooked fiber is more obvious. The study analyzed the hooked fiber straightening process through numerical simulation, which guides the design of key components such as rotor-spinning fiber transport channels.

      Construction and sensing performance of capacitive torsion sensor made from electrospinning fiber core-spun yarn
      FAN Mengjing, YUE Xinyan, SHAO Jianbo, CHEN Yu, HONG Jianhan, HAN Xiao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  106-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240505101
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      Objective With the rapid development of micro-electromechanical systems, torsion sensor has been widely used for effectively monitoring mechanical behavior in complex environments. The current torsion sensor is not satisfactory because of its rigidity, structural complexity and high price. Therefore, in order to meet different requirements and further expand its application space, a capacitive torsion sensor based on electrospinning fiber core-spun yarn (EFCY) with excellent flexibility and transduction properties was proposed.

      Method A four-needle water bath electrospinning method was used to prepare the EFCY with silver coated nylon (SCN) as the core, and polyacrylonitrile (PAN) electrospinning fiber as the sheath. The EFCY was prepared using the following electrospinning conditions: the mass fraction of the spinning solution was 12%, the spinning rate was 0.36 mL/h, the voltage was 18 kV, the drawing distance was 100 mm, the winding rate was 33 cm/min, and 4 needles were arranged in a straight line above the core yarn. The performance of the EFCY was analyzed, and a capacitive torsion sensors was constructed by using two EFCYs (Sensor 1# with the initial distance between the two EFCYs was 0 mm and Sensor 2# with the initial distance between the two EFCYs was 4 mm) with the SCN as electrode and. The effects of the initial distance and twisting speed on the capacitance of the sensors were discussed, and its repeatability was tested.

      Results The coating layer of EFCY was complete in structure and uniform in thickness (about 21.4 μm). The average diameter of the electrospinning PAN fibers was about 249.60 nm. Compared with SCN, the mechanical properties of EFCY were improved to some extent. The torsion sensor shows good sensing performance. When the initial distance between the two EFCYs in the sensor increases from 0 mm (Sensor 1#) to 4 mm (Sensor 2#), the initial capacitance of the sensor decreases from 7.28 pF to 2.63 pF. With the increase of twist, the capacitance of the two sensors showed a trend of gradual increase. When the twist of the two sensors exceeds 4 twist/cm, the capacitance changes tend to be consistent. When the twist reached 13-14 twist/cm, the electrospinning fiber coating layer would be destroyed under the action of extrusion pressure and friction, thus damaging the sensor structure and making it ineffective. In the range of 60-160 r/min, continuous twist-untwist-reverse twist-untwist cycle tests were carried out on the sensor at 6 different speeds. The results showed that the maximum value of Cp/C0(real-time capacitance/initial capacitance) increased significantly after 2-3 cycles at the speed of 60 r/min, showing initial instability. Subsequently, under different speeds, the maximum value of Cp/C0 is basically stable at about 3.4, which is almost not affected by the increase of speed. A cycle test of about 7 000 s at a speed of 160 r/min and a maximum twist of 5 twist /cm showed that the sensor maintained high sensing stability after the first few cycles.

      Conclusion EFCY with SCN as core yarn and PAN electrospinning fiber as coating layer was prepared by four-needle water bath electrospinning method, and the capacitive torsion sensor was constructed based on EFCYs. The properties of yarn are analyzed, and the sensing principle and properties of torsion sensor are discussed. The results show that the surface of SCN core yarn is covered by electrospinning fiber coating layer completely and uniformly, which can provide an ideal dielectric layer for the sensor. The capacitance value of torsion sensor increases with the increase of twist, and the limit twist can reach about 13 twist /cm. Under different test conditions, the sensor shows excellent repeatability. The sensor has an excellent application prospect in the field of flexible electronics for torsion monitoring.

      Preparation and performance of all-fabric iontronic flexible pressure sensor
      ZHANG Rui, YE Suxian, WANG Jian, ZOU Zhuanyong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  113-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240904601
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      Objective With the rapid development of smart wearable technology, flexible capacitive pressure sensors have been widely applied in various fields. However, traditional sensors suffer from low sensitivity and poor breathability, which seriously affect their performance and wearing comfort. Hence, this paper presents a breathable iontronic flexible pressure sensor based on the use of nonwoven fabrics, aiming to improve the deficiencies of existing capacitive sensors.

      Method A breathable all-fabric iontronic flexible pressure sensor was prepared by using nonwoven fabric as the base material, carbon nanotube-modified nonwoven fabric as the electrode layer, and ionic liquid-treated nonwoven fabric as the dielectric layer. The sensor was characterized and analyzed using SEM, TH2830 LCR digital multimeter, and a self-developed tensile tester.

      Results Three different contents (20%, 35% and 50%) of ion/fabric dielectric layers were prepared. The sensitivity and sensing performance of the sensors with these three different contents of ion/fabric dielectric layers were comparatively investigated. The results indicated that the sensor with 50% ion/fabric dielectric layer exhibited the highest sensitivity. This is attributed to the fact that the sensor reduced the distance between the upper and lower electrodes under external pressure. Meanwhile, with the increase in the content of ionic liquid adhered to the fiber surface, under the effect of the enhanced electric field, the number of pairs of charges accumulated at the electrode-dielectric layer interface will increase, thereby enhancing the response capacitance value. The sensor with 50% ion/fabric dielectric layer had a sensitivity as high as 2.89 kPa-1 within the range of 0-1.19 kPa and a sensitivity of 0.17 kPa-1 within the range of 1.19-224 kPa. Simultaneously, it demonstrated a wide sensing range (0-224 kPa), short response and recovery times (50/50 ms), strong durability (> 1 000 cycles), air permeability (225 mm/s), and superhydrophobic properties, with a water contact angle of 159.5°. Additionally, this sensor sh owed favorable non-contact performance, with a non-contact sensitivity of 1.43×10-3 cm-1.

      Conclusion The above characterizations suggest that the sensing performance of the iontronic flexible pressure sensor fabricated with the nonwoven fabric modified by 50% ionic liquid has been significantly enhanced. Under non-contact sensing, this sensor can distinctly recognize the speed and distance of the contacted object. Under pressure sensing, it can rapidly and precisely perceive the variations in human joint movement and motion angles. Therefore, this work opens up a new path for flexible capacitive sensors and has great potential in the field of human motion monitoring.

      Preparation and properties of interfacial solar steam generators with special-shaped spacer knitted structures
      QI Luman, MENG Jiaguang, YU Lingjie, ZHI Chao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  122-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240905301
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      Objective The interface solar steam generator (ISSG) has received widespread attention as a novel, sustainable water resource acquisition method with low energy consumption, low cost, and environmental friendliness. Among them, the ISSG based on textile production technologies such as weaving, knitting, and non-woven offers advantages of low cost and industrialization readiness. By designing a special knitted spacer structure to integrate the photothermal evaporation layer, water supply structure, and floating layer through weaving in 2-D or 3-D forms, it is expected to achieve a good combination of high-efficiency light absorption and conversion, rapid and stable water supply, and excellent thermal management, thereby effectively enhancing the evaporation performance of the ISSG.

      Method Based on the designability of knitted spacer fabrics, the photothermal evaporation layer was knitted with polyester composite fibers covered by graphene/carbon nanotubes, and the floating layer was woven with polyester filament. The spacer yarn prepared by two-dimensional knitting technology on KBL-24-2-90 high-speed knitting machine was used to connect the photothermal evaporation layer and the floating layer. A self-floating weft knitted profiled spacer fabric interface solar steam generator (SWF) was prepared on MN-TYPE knitting machine generator. The water transfer performance, light absorption performance, evaporation performance and wastewater treatment performance were studied and analyzed.

      Results Through the water transfer experiment of the spacer yarn prepared by two-dimensional knitting technology, it was found that the liquid transmission speed of the spacer yarn was 1 cm/min, and the results showed that the spacer yarn could achieve rapid moisture transfer. The SWF evaporator was able to run without light for 900 seconds, and the light absorption rate in the UV-visible to near-infrared light region was as high as 96%. The SWF evaporation performance was tested using a simulated light source consisting of an AM 1.5 filter and an xenon lamp, with an evaporation rate of 1.80 kg/(m2·h) at a light intensity of 1 kW/m2, and an evaporation efficiency of 95.73%. The SWF was tested for cyclic stability in a 3.5% sodium chloride solution, and the test results showed that SWF has good cyclic stability, with no significant difference in evaporation rate after 10 uses, and an evaporation efficiency was 1.51 kg/(m2·h) even in a 15% sodium chloride solution. The evaporation performance of dye solutions containing methylene blue solution and methyl orange solution was tested, and there was a clear color change in the methylene blue solution, methyl orange solution, and the steam water collected during evaporation. The color of the steam water collected was almost transparent.

      Conclusion Using the 3-D knitting technology, a solar steam generator SWF made from self-floating weft knitted special-shaped spacer fabric interface was prepared. The test results show that the special-shaped solar evaporator has highly efficient light absorption performance, self-floating performance, high efficiency water supply performance, and can achieve highly efficient solar photothermal conversion, which is applicable to seawater desalination, wastewater treatment and other areas. The novelty of this study lies in the new preparation idea and development of fabric-based solar evaporators.

      Dyeing and Finishing Engineering
      Dyeing of bio-based polyamide 56 with weak acidic dyes for green vegetation imitation
      LUO Qiaoling, FU Shaohai, WANG Dong, WANG Meihui, GUO Yafei, HAO Xinmin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  130-137.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240903801
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      Objective Imitating the color and spectral reflection characteristics of green vegetation contributes to the military camouflage. Bio-based polyamide 56 has many merits such as high strength, wear resistance, good chromaticity, lightweight and softness. In this research, a bio-based polyamide 56 fabric was dyed in green color to simulate spectral characteristics of vegetation by using acid dyes.

      Method In this work, weak acid dye compounds were used to dye the bio-based polyamide 56 fabric to simulate the color and spectral reflection of green vegetation by adjusting the ratio of C.I.Acid Yellow 199, C.I. Acid Blue 324 and C.I.Acid Blue 185. The influence of dyeing, dyes dosage, and blending on spectral reflectance curve from 400 to 1200 nm of dyed fabric were studied. The spectral distance, angle and correlation of the spectral reflectance curves of dyed fabrics were calculated against the standard curves of green vegetation. The fabric color difference and fastness were also measured.

      Results When adopting the room temperature dyeing-controlled heating method dying process, C.I. Acid yellow 199, C.I. Acid Blue 324 and C.I. Acid Blue 185 demonstrated a high dyeing rate and yield, and poor compatibility. When adopting the homo-thermal constant temperature dyeing method with 60 ℃ temperature, the compatibility of the dyes was improved. It was revealed that the higher was the dye concentration, the greater was the redshift of the spectral reflection curve. C.I. Acid Yellow 199 has a low reflectivity between 380 and 450 nm, which could be used to simulate the absorption of ultraviolet and visible light by green vegetation, and form a "green peak" at 550 nm during mixed dyeing. The "red edge" of C.I. Acid Blue 324 is at 630 nm, which shows bule shift 50 nm from the green vegetation. C.I.Acid Blue 185 has a strong absorption peak near 680 nm, and the weak absorption peaks around 880 nm and 960 nm without overlapping with water peaks of green vegetation. Therefore, C.I.Acid Blue 185 was used to simulate the "red edge" of green vegetation. The mixture of any two dyes failed to fully simulate the spectral reflectance curve of green vegetation, but that of three dyes was proved successful in simulating the green color with the reflective characteristics. In the spectral reflectance curves of three-dye mixture, a reflection peak was identified at 530 nm, and the "red edge" started from 675 nm. Moreover, the impurity peak at 630 nm was found absorbed by C.I. Acidic Blue 324 with a maximum absorption wavelength of 630 nm. The obtained spectral reflectance curve was relatively similar to that of green vegetation. By further adjusting the dye ratio, the spectral reflectance curve was found closer to that of green leaves. The spectral distance of the dyed fabric and the standard green leaf curve was less than 1.3, the spectral angle was less than 0.1 rad, and the spectral correlation coefficient was close to 1. In the visible/near-infrared range of 400-1 200 nm, the spectral characteristics of green vegetation were accurately simulated, meeting the requirements of GJB 1411—2015. The color of the dyed fabric was simulated against the color of GBJ 1082A—2021 chromatogram DG0850, MG1048 and YG1550 to meet the requirement of color difference less than 3. The color fastness of the stained samples was found satisfactory.

      Conclusion The dyeing process affects the dyeing rate and compatibility. When the dyeing process starts at 60 ℃, and holds at 60 ℃ for 40 min, the dyeing rate and compatibility are good. Yellow dyes affect the "green peak", and blue dyes affect the "red edge". C.I. Acid Blue 185 has an absorption peak of 675 nm, which can simulate the "red edge". As the dye concentration increases, the reflectance value decreases, and the spectral value shows a red shift. Dye compounding produces the deep color effect, reduces the reflection value and dye dosage. The dyed fabric meets the requirements of GJB 1411—2015 and GBJ 1082A—2021, which can be applied to military combat uniforms or camouflage nets.

      Urea-free printing on viscose fabrics using Reactive Red 24 by foam fed alkali
      CUI Fang, ZHANG Xinqing, YIN Fei, LI Dawei, LEI Miaomiao, XIE Zhiyong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  138-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240906501
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      Objective Fabrics made of viscose fibers are very popular because of their good hygroscopicity and breathability, as well as wearing comfort. However, the conventional printing on viscose fabrics with reactive dyes is both water and energy intensive. In addition, huge amount of urea is consumed to absorb moisture from the steam, assisting the dissolution of dyes and swelling of fibers, which is not environmentally friendly. In order to reduce the water, energy and urea consumptions in printing viscose fabrics with reactive dyes, a urea-free printing process based on the foam-assisted alkali feeding and wet steaming procedures is proposed.

      Method In this study, the alkali agent was applied onto a viscose fabric printed with reactive dyes by pre-wetting with foam, and the moisture absorption function of urea was replaced by utilizing the steam condensation to produce water on the viscose fabric with low wet pick-up during steaming. The alkali-resistant stability of foam prepared by using sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) as the foaming agent and sodium alginate (SA) as the foam stabilizer was investigated. The influence of different factors on the color strength of viscose fabric printed with Reactive Red 24 was studied, and the comprehensive printing effects were also analyzed.

      Results The drop emergence time (DET, t0) and half-life period of decay (HPD, t1/2) of the foam prepared with 4 g/L of SDS and 12 g/L of SA can reach 14.30 min and 80.67 min respectively, even when the mass concentration of sodium carbonate in the foaming stock solution was 90 g/L with a pH value of 11.51, indicating a good alkali-resistant stability. When the viscose fabrics printed with 3% (mass fraction) of Reactive Red 24 were screen printed with foam prepared with the foaming stock solution containing 4 g/L of SDS, 12 g/L of SA and 30 g/L of sodium carbonate, and then directly steamed at different temperatures for certain time without intermediate drying, the prints can obtain highest K/S value when steamed at 115 ℃ for 13 min. For the viscose fabrics printed with 3% (mass fraction) of Reactive Red 24, screen printed with foam prepared with foaming stock solution containing 4 g/L of SDS, 12 g/L of SA and 10-70 g/L of sodium carbonate, and then steamed at 115 ℃ for 13 min, the K/S value of the prints reached the highest when the concentration of sodium carbonate was 30 g/L. For the registration pattern on viscose fabrics printed with both 3% (mass fraction) of Reactive Blue 19 and Reactive Red 24 in sequence, followed by screen printing with foam prepared with foaming stock solution containing 4 g/L of SDS, 12 g/L of SA and 30 g/L of sodium carbonate, and then steamed at 115 ℃ for 13 min, the outline of the pattern was found clear and smooth, and no obvious bleeding was observed, indicating acceptable pattern sharpness. For the viscose fabrics printed with 1%, 3% and 5% (mass fraction) of Reactive Red 24 using the proposed foam-assisted alkali feeding-wet steaming procedure and the conventional all-in method, the color build-up property was good for both of them, the color levelness of the prints obtained from the proposed printing process was a bit poorer than that from the all-in method, the color fastness to dry rubbing of the prints both reached grade 4-5 or above, and the wet rubbing fastness of the prints obtained from the proposed process was a bit better than that from the all-in method, with a grade of 4 or above for the former.

      Conclusion The foaming stock solution formulated with SDS as foaming agent and SA as foam stabilizer has good alkali-resistant stability, with DET and HPD of 14.30 min and 80.67 min, respectively, even when the mass concentration of sodium carbonate was 90 g/L and the pH of 11.51, with 4 g/L of SDS and 12 g/L of SA in the solution. The appropriate conditions for printing viscose fabric with 3% (mass fraction) of Reactive Red 24 using the foam-assisted alkali feeding-wet steaming process are 30 g/L of sodium carbonate, steaming at 115 ℃ for 13 min. The printed viscose fabrics using the developed process have acceptable pattern sharpness with no obvious bleeding, good color build-up property, the color fastness to dry and wet rubbing can respectively reach up to grade 4-5 or above as well as grade 4 or above. In general, although attempts are needed to improve the color levelness, the proposed printing process has the potential to reduce the water, energy and urea consumption in printing of viscose fabric with reactive dyes.

      Reaction mechanism between α-trifluoromethyl phenyl diazo ester dye and synthetic fiber
      XIE Xiaokang, JIANG Hua, WANG Ye, SHI Lulu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  145-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240907601
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      Objective The carbene-type dye that emerged in recent years could achieve strong covalent bonding between dyes and fibers, which is expected to solve the thermal migration problem of conventional disperse dyes. To date, the carbene dyes are still not widely available, and the reaction mechanism between dyes and fibers is yet to be fully understood. This research developed a novel carbene-type dye based on the structure of α-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl diazo ester, which was used for dyeing and fixing various synthetic fibers. This paper article aims to reveal the reaction mechanism between dyes and fibers by further simulation experiments and theoretical calculations.

      Method Dye D1 was synthesized through a two-step post-modification of an azo dye containing one hydroxyl group. The absorption and thermal properties of dye D1 were studied. Then, dye D1 was applied to dyeing polyester, polypropylene, polyurethane and polyamide fibers. The color firmness was confirmed by testing fixation, dye migration and fastness properties. Simulation reactions between D1 and small molecule analogues, such as benzene, dioxane, cyclohexane, and piperidine, were used to clarify the reaction site on fibers. Theoretical calculations of reactions between 4-(trifluoromethyl)phenyldiazoacetic acid methyl ester and methane or methylamine were performed. Based on the above, the reaction mechanism between the dye and fiber was speculated.

      Results Dye D1 with an overall yield of 79% was obtained through the two-step post-modification of azo dye. The color of dye D1 was red and its maximum absorption wavelength in UV-vis absorption spectrum located at 492 nm, with a molar extinction coefficient of 35 300 L/(mol·cm). The thermogravimetric curve of dye D1 showed a weight loss of 5.6% at 100-200 ℃, with a quickest weight loss temperature of 152 ℃. The weight loss at this stage was related to the dissociation of the diazo group by releasing nitrogen gas. The DSC curve indicated one endothermic peak with the temperature of 141 ℃, and one exothermic peak corresponding to a temperature of 160 ℃. During the heating process, dye D1 converted into carbene intermediates, accompanied with the removal of nitrogen gas. Highly active carbenes would undergo insertion reactions with C—H or N—H bonds on fibers. Four types of synthetic fibers dyed with dye D1 showed good fixation values of 73% for polyester, 48% for polypropylene, 85% for polyurethane and 53% for polyamide. Dye migrations of dyed fibers were only 12%-14%, and the color fastnesses to soaping, rubbing and sublimation reached level 4 or above. Simulation reaction results demonstrated that dye D1 and benzene underwent an additional reaction with an optimal yield of 54% at the temperature of 140 ℃. Dye D1 and dioxane underwent ring expansion reaction, and the optimal yield is 62% when the reaction temperature was 110 ℃. A C—H bond insertion reaction between D1 and cyclohexane occurred at an optimal reaction temperature of 150 ℃ in a 78% yield, and an N—H bond insertion reaction between D1 and pyridine took place at an optimal reaction temperature of 130 ℃ in a 50% yield. The reaction of dyes in a mixed solvent of benzene and dioxane produced cycloaddition product with a yield of 12% and ring expansion reaction product with a yield of 51%. The reaction of dyes in a mixed solvent of cyclohexane and piperidine produced cyclohexane C—H insertion product with a yield of only 6%, and piperidine N—H insertion product with a yield of 35%. Theoretical calculations showed a potential barrier of 31.3 kJ/mol for the conversion of 4-(trifluoromethyl)phenyldiazoacetic acid methyl ester to carbenes. N—H bond insertion reactions was mainly dominated by singlet—state carbenes. C—H bond insertion reactions was initiated from triplet carbenes with a potential barrier of 65 kJ/mol.

      Conclusion The carbene-type dye based on α-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl diazo ester structure could react with synthetic fibers. The dyed synthetic fibers exhibited remarkable color firmness with the fixation values between 48%-85%, good resistance to dye migration and excellent color fastnesses to soaping, rubbing and sublimation. For polyester fiber, ethylene glycol ester units could react with carbene intermediates through C—H bond insertion reaction, and benzene ring could react with carbene intermediates through addition reaction. For polypropylene fiber, C—H bond insertion reaction was the main reaction type between dyes and fibers. For polyurethane and polyamide fibers, the insertion reaction between carbene intermediates and N—H bonds on fiber macromolecules was the main reaction type.

      Vision-near-infrared light stealth nylon fabric based on liquid phase stripping graphene
      ZHAO Deng, ZHANG Yi, ZHENG Mengjie, BI Shuguang, RAN Jianhua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  153-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240906101
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      Objective The requirements for infrared camouflage in modern warfare are becoming increasingly complex and challenging. In order to provide effective camouflage in the visible and infrared spectral ranges, it is necessary to develop suitable infrared camouflage equipment, of which the most effective method is to develop infrared camouflage materials. Near-infrared camouflage textile materials are usually combined with visible light camouflage in the form of camou-flage fabrics.

      Method In this research, acid dyes and cellulose nanowhisker liquid-phase stripped graphene were used to syn-ergistically top-dye nylon fabrics to achieve the stealth effect of the fabrics in the visible/near-infrared light bands, aiming to effectively reduces the risk of being detected by the reconnaissance system, and to significantly improve the covertness and survivability of military equipment.

      Results A stable graphene aqueous dispersion (SDBS-CeNW-Graphene, abbreviated as SCG) was prepared by liquid-phase exfoliation of graphene with CeNW as the dispersant with the assistance of the small-molecule surfactant SDBS, which showed remarkable dispersion stability in aqueous solution, and there was no obvious precipitation within three months of standing. When the concentration of SDBS reached 0.5 mg/mL, the surface tension of SCG dispersion did not decrease significantly, and the concentration of SCG was close to the critical micelle concentration CMC, when the surface tension reached the minimum. The dispersion effect of SCG dispersions was best when the ratio of graphene to CeNW was 1∶2. Using SCG dispersion to synergize with acid dyes for dyeing nylon fabrics showed high K/S values in the visible light range, which proved the excellent dyeing effect; while in the near-infrared light range, the reflectivity decreased from 33% to 29%, successfully achieving the near-infrared light stealth function of nylon fabrics.

      Conclusion In this study, the feasibility of near-infrared light stealth nylon fabrics prepared by liquid-phase exfoliation of graphene from cellulose nano whiskers was experimentally evaluated, and the SCG dispersion obtained by liquid-phase exfoliation of graphene from cellulose nanowhisker was used to synergise with acid-dyeing to dye nylon fabrics that can modulate the reflectivity, which is expected to be in line with the surrounding environment to achieve the light stealth function. The breathability of non-spectral fabrics is better than that of spectral fabrics, but the subsequent fabric materials need to be developed in the direction of ready-to-wear clothing, and their taking performance needs to be considered, and it is necessary to think about how to improve their breathability. Attempts could be made to optimise the preparation of cellulose nanowhisker for liquid phase exfoliation of graphene to obtain a higher purity and dispersion of the material. This will help to improve the uniformity and adhesion of the coating on the fabric, thus improving the stealth effect.

      Simultaneous in-situ dyeing and flame retardant functionalization of wool fabrics based on laccase catalysis
      GUO Qing, MAO Yangshun, REN Yajie, LIU Jimin, WANG Huaifang, ZHU Ping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  161-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240905201
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      Objective Wool fabrics is widely used in apparel, upholstery and industrial applications due to properties such as comfort, biocompatibility, breathability, and hygroscopicity. Conventional dyeing methods for wool products require boiling at high temperatures, consuming large amounts of energy and chemicals, and exerting a detrimental effect on the fabric's inherent properties. In addition, durable flame retardancy for wool fabrics are generally produced by baking phosphorus-containing compounds, usually in the presence of cross-linking agents, at high temperature, or by treating wool fabrics with metal complexes, such as potassium hexafluorotitanic, which lead to yellowing of the fabrics, damage to strength, and heavy metal problems. Consequently, the development of facile and eco-friendly dyeing and flame retardant methods for wool fabrics is essential.

      Method A laccase-catalyzed one-step process using gallic acid (GA) and 9,10-dihydro-9-oxa-10-phosphaphenanthrene 10-oxide (DOPO)as substrates was used to achieve simultaneous dyeing and flame retardant functionalization of wool fabrics. The reaction mechanism of GA and DOPO was analyzed with help of UV-visible spectrometer. The morphology, chemical composition, color and the flame retardancy of the treated fabrics were tested and characterized by means of scanning electron microscope, EDS, infrared spectrometer, colorimeter and oxygen index meter.

      Results The results demonstrated that the use of laccase as a catalyst enabled the grafting, cross-linking and absorption of GA and DOPO with wool, facilitating the in-situ dyeing and fire retardant modification of wool. The ultraviolet spectroscopy analysis and the color of the samples indicated that the copolymerization of DOPO and GA hinders the polymerization of GA, resulting in a weakened copolymerization and a lower K/S value for GA-DOPO-Wool in comparison to GA-Wool. The limit oxygen index and vertical burning tests demonstrated the effective flame retardant properties of the GA-DOPO-Wool. This phenomenon may be attributed to the reaction between DOPO and GA or GA polymers, which acted as a bridge between the wool and DOPO, thereby increasing the amount of DOPO grafted and adsorbed onto the wool fibers. The results of the EDS and FT-IR tests provided further validation of the interfacial reaction between the substrate and the wool. The thermal gravimetric analysis demonstrated that GA treated wool has an enhanced heat stability, possibly due to the cross-linking reaction between GA and the side chains of the wool. Furthermore, the decomposition of DOPO produced phosphoric and phosphoric acids upon heating and facilitated the dehydration and combustion of wool, forming a barrier that delays the degradation of wool fibers. The color fastness and flame retardancy of GA-DOPO-Wool were found to be excellent, even after 30 times home laundering cycle. Furthermore, the intermolecular bonding between the substrate and the wool fibers resulted in an approximate 46% increase in tensile strength of the treated wool following coloration and chemical modification, accompanied by a slight increase in elongation. Additionally, the data on the tactile properties of the treated wool indicated that the wool retained its inherent excellent tactile quality despite a slight decrease in surface smoothness.

      Conclusion The copolymerization of GA with DOPO is catalyzed by laccase and the resulted polymer is grafted and crosslinked to the wool. The yielded compound is shown to adhere to the surface of the wool, imparting a dark brown color and flame retardant properties to the wool. The K/S value of the treated wool is 4.98, and the ultimate oxygen index is 27.5%. Furthermore, the treated fabrics exhibits excellent water resistance. After the treatment, the mechanical properties of wool fabrics are enhanced possibly due to the cross-linking with the wool. It is worth noting that the process presented in this paper does not affect the fabric hand, which is a merit of the treated fabrics for applications in daily life and industry.

      Preparation of covalent organic framework/viscose spunlaced nonwoven fabrics and adsorption properties for dyestuff
      LI Fengchun, SUN Hui, YU Bin, XIE Youxiu, ZHANG Dewei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  170-179.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240805101
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      Objective Viscose spunlaced nonwoven fabrics (VSN) are a kind of nonwoven material prepared by spunlacing regenerated cellulose fibers and have the advantages of high strength and abrasion resistance, good air permeability and water wettability, and environmental friendliness and recyclability. Due to a large specific surface area and abundant reactive groups on the macromolecular chain, VSN has the potential to be used in the wastewater treatment field. However, in the face of complex water pollution system, VSN itself is difficult to achieve the efficient adsorption of organic dyes in water. It is necessary for VSN to be functionally modified for high adsorption of organic dyestuffs. Covalent organic frameworks (COFs) possess the advantages of high porosity, low density, customizable structural design, precise pore size, ease of functionalization, and excellent chemical stability, and have great potential as adsorbents for pollutant removal in water. Therefore, the functional modification of VSN using COFs is expected not only to enhance the organic dyestuffs adsorption efficiency of VSN, but also realize the effective recovery and recycling of COFs.

      Method VSN was first pretreated with dilute hydrochloric acid. Pyridine-COF was then synthesized on the surface of VSN by in-situ solvothermal method using 1, 3, 5-tris(4-aminophenyl)benzene (TAP) and 2, 6-pyridinedicarboxaldehyde (DFP) as raw materials, and acetic acid as catalyst, obtaining Pyridine-COF/VSN. The morphology and structure of Pyridine-COF/VSN were studied, and the adsorption properties of organic dyestuffs were analyzed. Furthermore, the adsorption mechanism was explored by the adsorption kinetics and thermodynamics.

      Results After in-situ solvothermal synthesis, Pyridine-COF uniformly covered the surface of the viscose fibers, showing a complete and regular spherical structure with a particle size of about 400 nm. In the FT-IR spectra of Pyridine-COF/VSN, the characteristic peaks of C=N of COF appeared besides the characteristic peaks attributed to VSN. The XPS spectra of Pyridine-COF/VSN showed that three peaks attributed to C, O, and N elements. The nuclear energy level N1s of Pyridine-COF/VSN were fitted, two peaks at 399.15 eV and 399.6 eV attributed to pyridine N (Pyridine-N) and —C—N=C. These phenomena verified that Pyridine-COF has been fixed on the surface of VSN. Compared with VSN, Pyridine-COF/ VSN showed a significant improvement in the adsorption efficiency of RhB in water. Pyridine-COF/VSN had adsorption capacity for both cationic organic dyestuffs including methylene blue (MB) and rhodamine (RhB) and anionic organic dyestuffs including congo red (CR) and methyl orange (MO). When the adsorption temperature was 25 ℃ and the pH of adsorption solution was 7, the adsorption efficiency of Pyridine-COF/VSN for RhB reached maximum, and was 98.06%, and the adsorption equilibrium time was 120 min. Compared with the quasi-primary kinetic model, the quasi-secondary kinetic model could better fit the adsorption process of Pyridine-COF/VSN for RhB, indicating that the whole adsorption process was mainly controlled by the chemical adsorption mechanism. The result from adsorption thermodynamics indicated that the adsorption process of Pyridine-COF/VSN for RhB was endothermic and spontaneous process. After six cycles, the adsorption efficiency of Pyridine-COF/VSN for RhB was still 64.60%. Compared with VSN, the tensile strength of the fabricated Pyridine-COF/VSN decreased, but the elongation at break increased.

      Conclusion Compared with VSN, Pyridine-COF has outstanding adsorption for organic dyestuffs in water, and good reusable performance. When the adsorption temperature was 25 ℃ and the pH of adsorption solution was 7, the adsorption efficiency of Pyridine-COF/VSN for RhB was 98.06%. After six cycles, the adsorption efficiency of Pyridine-COF/VSN for RhB still kept 64.60%. It is hoped that our studies can expand the application of VSN on water treatment, and may provide some theoretical references for the preparation of nonwoven materials with high adsorption property.

      Modification of cotton fabric by in-situ deposition of phosphorus/nitrogen flame retardants for durable flame retardancy
      ZHANG Jie, GUO Xinyuan, GUAN Jinping, CHENG Xianwei, CHEN Guoqiang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  180-187.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240902401
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      Objective Cotton fabrics are known for their softness, wearing comfort, moisture absorption and breathability, and are widely used in clothing, decoration, construction and other fields. However, cotton fabrics would burn rapidly and the burning is accompanied by obvious phenomena of secondary ignition and shadow ignition, which needs improving for the fire safety of cotton fabrics. Proban technology is known to offer flame retardant durability, low cost and minimal impact on mechanical properties to cotton fabrics, but it is limited by the complex ammonia fumigation process, which largely restricts its application.

      Method Different concentrations of tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium sulfate (THPS), dicyandiamide (DCD), and cyclic phosphate ester flame-retardant FRC-1 were used to prepare the solution at 80 ℃ oscillation for 10 min. The cotton fabrics were immersed in the solution for impregnation for 10 min, followed by two further immersion and two rolling processes. The rolling rate was 100%, and the fabric was then dried at 80 ℃ for 3 min, then baked at 150 ℃ for 3 min. THPS was used to form amine macromolecules with anionic FRC-1 electrostatic interaction, aiming to form more complex condensation products within the fibers. The complex condensation products were formed within the fiber to enable the cotton fabrics with efficient and durable flame-retardant properties.

      Results Experiment showed that the cotton fabric burned fiercely with obvious continuation of combustion and the phenomenon of negative combustion. The length of damage was 30 cm, and the LOI value was only 18.6%. After the flame-retardant finishing, the flame retardancy of the modified cotton fabric was improved, and the flame was self-extinguished within 6 s, and the length of damage was reduced to 7.5 cm, and the LOI reached 29.7%, when the concentration of FRC-1 was 80 g/L and the concentration of THPS was 100 g/L. The modified cotton fabric exhibited good self-extinguishing performance after 50 times of home washing, when the destruction length was 11.0 cm, and the LOI was 26.4%. These still satisfy the performance requirements for grade B1 according to GB/T 17591—2006 Flame-retardant Fabrics. The heat release rate and total heat release of the modified cotton fabrics were greatly reduced, indicating that the flame-retardant coating obviously inhibited the heat release performance of cotton fabrics, and the fire hazard of modified cotton fabrics was reduced. The early decomposition of phosphorus-containing compound in the heating process promoted dehydration and charring of cotton fabrics. The modified fabrics showed high thermal stability with the formation of more residual carbon under high-temperature conditions, leaving a char layer with high degree of graphitization, effectively isolating oxygen and heat. In the combustion process, a large number of non-combustible volatile substances were produced, diluting the concentration of flammable gases, and the quenching effect of the phosphorus radical was also beneficial for improving flame retardancy. It is evident that the phosphorus-containing flame-retardant groups in the polycondensation products played a flame-retardant role in the solid phase and gas phase. The physical properties of the modified cotton fabrics did not change significantly and did not affect their subsequent use.

      Conclusion The condensation product of tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphine sulphate, dicyandiamide and the cyclic phosphate ester FRC-1 shows a high level of flame retardancy on cotton fabrics. Even after 50 home washing cycles, the modified cotton fabrics were able to pass the vertical flame test and meet the requirements of Class B1. Thermal analysis, thermogravimetric infrared analysis, cone calorimetry, carbon residue analysis and physical property analysis showed that the phosphorus-containing polycondensates effectively improved the flame retardancy of the modified cotton fabrics through the mechanism of solid-phase and gas-phase flame retardancy. In conclusion, phosphorus-containing polycondensates have a great potential to be used as a sustainable and effective flame-retardant method for modified cotton fabrics.

      Preparation and performance of flame-retardant viscose fabrics with both mechanical and efficient flame-retardant properties
      SONG Wanmeng, WANG Baohong, SUN Yu, YANG Jiaxiang, LIU Yun, WANG Yuzhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  188-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240904001
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      Objective Viscose fabrics, known for their breathability, dyeability, and comfort as renewable cellulose-based textiles, have found widespread use in daily life. However, viscose fabrics retain the flammable nature of cellulose-based materials, with a limiting oxygen index (LOI) of only about 18.5%. As their usage grows, so does the potential fire hazard they pose. Therefore, the flame-retardant finishing of viscose fabrics is crucial to safeguard human lives and property. Furthermore, viscose fabrics often have lower tensile strength, and most flame retardants are acidic, potentially compromising the fabric's strength during finishing. Hence, achieving flame retardancy while maintaining mechanical properties is a highly significant challenge.

      Method Phytic acid (PA) and maltitol were mixed in a three-necked flask with specific molar ratios i.e., 1∶1, 1∶2, 1∶3, 1∶4, and 1∶5, and reacted under magnetic stirring at 130 ℃ for 3 h to produce the flame retardant, named PAMAab (ab presents the molar ratio of PA to maltitol). PAMA was dissolved in water to prepare aqueous solutions of 100 g/L and 200 g/L, respectively. Then, viscose fabrics were soaked in the flame-retardant solution with a bath ratio of 1∶20, and 5% sodium hypophosphite was added as a stabilizer. The flame retardant was applied to viscose fabrics using a pad-dry-curing method, in which the viscose fabrics were immersed into the solution at 70 ℃ for 20 min, then pre-dried at 80 ℃ for 3 min, followed by curing at 170 ℃ for 3 min to obtain the flame retardant treated viscose fabrics.

      Results To prepare the flame-retardant treated viscose fabrics with better flame retardancy and mechanical properties, the effect of different molar ratios of PA to maltitol on the flame retardancy and mechanical properties of treated viscose fabrics was investigated in detail. The results indicated that the flame-retardant treated viscose fabrics achieved an improved balanced combination of the flame retardancy and mechanical properties when the molar ratio of PA to maltitol was 1∶3. Scanning electron microscope results showed that the flame retardant and PAMA successfully covered the surface of the fibers without noticeably blocking the orifices between them. With a flame-retardant concentration of 100 g/L, LOI value of the PAMA13-100 treated viscose fabric increased from 18.5% to 30.1%, enabling self-extinguishing with no after-flame or after-glow time. Thermal stability analysis revealed that PAMA13-100 exhibited reduced thermal stability in the low-temperature range but improved thermal stability in higher temperature zones, with a significant increase in char residues at 700 ℃. The peak heat release rate and total heat release of PAMA13-100 were decreased by 83% and 51%, respectively, and total smoke production was decreased from 3.3 m2 to 0.2 m2. PAMA13-100 demonstrated denser and more stable residual chars after cone calorimeter test, effectively preventing further flame spread and greatly enhancing the fire safety of finished viscose fabrics. Additionally, it is noteworthy that the tensile strength retention in warp direction of PAMA13-100 approached 100%, nearly 400% higher compared with that of fabrics treated with pure PA, and the tensile strength in weft direction arrived at 114%, ensuring the secured subsequent processing and use of finished viscose fabrics. This system enabled the finished viscose fabrics to achieve a UPF value of over 40, meeting the requirements for ultraviolet protection textiles and demonstrating potential as a multifunctional product.

      Conclusion In conclusion, the flame retardant, PAMA, enhanced the flame retardancy and tensile strength retention of viscose fabrics treated with PA-based flame retardants through the pad-dry-curing finishing process. This system exhibited self-extinguishing properties without after-glow or after-flame time when the weight gain was 10.1%, and it effectively reduced smoke release. It can be applied to carpets, curtains, and other textiles. In subsequent research, efforts will focus on optimizing and improving its washing durability to achieve higher practical value.

      Modification of cotton fabrics by behenic acid and ZIF-8 for superhydrophobic and anti-icing performance
      YUAN Huabin, WANG Yifeng, WANG Jiapeng, XIANG Yongxuan, CHEN Guoqiang, XING Tieling
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  197-206.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240905101
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      Objective The post-freezing stiffness of cotton fabrics not only impairs user mobility but also enhances the risk of hypothermia by exacerbating heat loss, posing potential harm to wearer. The hydrophobic modification of cotton fabrics has been identified as an effective strategy to impart anti-icing capabilities. This study employs biomass materials such as behenic acid and zeolitic imidazolate frameworks (ZIF-8) to modify the cotton fabrics, producing superhydrophobic textiles with enhanced anti-icing properties.

      Method Behenic acid was utilized to induce morphological changes in ZIF-8 on the cotton fabric surface to reduce surface energy, resulting in the creation of superhydrophobic and anti-icing fabrics. The study comprehensively analyzed the surface morphology and chemical composition of the fabric through scanning electron microscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy. In addition, the stability, wettability, and anti-icing performance of the modified cotton fabric were also studied.

      Results The concentration of behenic acid and treatment duration were found to influence significantly the nanoflower structure and superhydrophobic properties of the modified cotton fabric. The optimal conditions were identified which is a behenic acid concentration of 6 g/L and a treatment duration of 120 min. Under these conditions, a dense nanoflower morphology was achieved, with a contact angle of 160.6° and a sliding angle of only 2°. The formation of the nanoflower structure was primarily attributed to the self-assembly between ZIF-8 and behenic acid. Specifically, the Zn2+ in ZIF-8 bound with the carboxyl groups at the ends of behenic acid chains and the hydrophobic interactions between the long chains of behenic acid promoted growth in specific directions, ultimately forming the nanoflower morphology. Infrared spectroscopy revealed new peaks at 419 cm-1 (Zn—N), 991 cm-1 (C—N), 1 581 cm-1 (C—N), 2 846 cm-1 (—CH2), and 2 916 cm-1 (—CH3), confirming the effective modification of cotton fabric by behenic acid and ZIF-8. Even when immersed in a high-concentration methylene blue solution, the surface of the modified cotton fabric showed no signs of contamination. Furthermore, dust on the surface of the modified cotton fabric could be easily removed with water flow, demonstrating excellent self-cleaning and anti-fouling properties. Due to the structural stability of ZIF-8 and the ZnO layer formed at high temperatures, the modified cotton fabric exhibited exceptional thermal stability, maintaining a high residual mass even at 700 ℃. Following modification with behenic acid and ZIF-8, the tensile strength of the modified cotton fabric was significantly enhanced, while its air permeability remained comparable to that of the original cotton fabric. The significant contact angle (160.6°) indicated a high energy barrier for ice formation, with freezing times delayed to 713.2 s at -15 ℃ and 351.6 s at -20 ℃. The modified cotton fabric also demonstrated excellent physical and chemical stability. After 20 cycles of abrasion with 1 000-grit sandpaper and treatment at -20 ℃ and 100 ℃ for 10 h, the contact angle remained above 150°, and the sliding angle was less than 10°. Even after 600 min of continuous washing, the hydrophobic properties were retained. Additionally, the superhydrophobic performance remained stable after 24 h of immersion in strong acid (pH=1), strong base (pH=13), and various organic solvents such as tetrahydrofuran, cyclohexane, methanol, carbon tetrachloride, and ethanol.

      Conclusion The combination of behenic acid and ZIF-8 effectively creates a superhydrophobic material that possesses self-cleaning, anti-fouling, and anti-icing capabilities. The presence of nanoflower structures and superhydrophobic properties relies on the concentration of behenic acid and treatment duration, with optimal conditions at 6 g/L and 120 min. The formation of nanoflowers on the surface of the modified cotton fabric is primarily attributed to the self-assembly of ZIF-8 and behenic acid. The modified fabric exhibits outstanding physical and chemical stability, providing a new approach for developing anti-icing textiles, with freezing delay times in -15 ℃ and -20 ℃ environments recorded at 713.2 s and 351.6 s, respectively.

      Efficient and economical preparation of patterned durable waterborne polyurethane/carbon nanotube multifunctional antistatic composite fabrics
      ZHANG Zhe, WANG Rui, CAI Tao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  207-217.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240906401
      Abstract ( 22 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (30150KB) ( 9 )   Save
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      Objective Synthetic fiber fabrics such as polyester and nylon are prone to severe static electricity issues. A comprehensive review of the current literature on fabric antistatic research and an understanding of commercially available antistatic materials reveals that the most effective method to combat static electricity is to enhance the electrical conductivity of the fibers or fabrics using materials with excellent conductive properties, thereby rapidly eliminating static electricity through leakage. The mainstream preparation techniques involve applying conductive materials to the fiber or fabric surface through methods such as padding, coating, and sputtering. However, these methods are associated with complex operations, high costs, and low material utilization rates. Therefore, this study aims to explore an efficient and cost-effective preparation process for antistatic composite fabrics.

      Method The preparation process of antistatic composite fabrics in this research was divided into two parts. In the first part, commercially available carbon nanotubes (CNTs) dispersion and waterborne polyurethane (WPU) were used to prepare antistatic paste through simple stirring and thickening. The process parameters of the paste were then optimized using the response surface methodology. Subsequently, precision screen printing meshes with various mesh structures were designed using AutoCAD software and applied to the fabric surface via simple screen printing, resulting in mesh-printed printed coated fabrics.

      Results The optimization of the paste making process using the response surface methodology took into consideration of the amounts of thickener (PTF), slow dryer (TPM), and carbon nanotubes (CNTs) as influencing factors, with the goal of minimizing the resistance of the coated fabric. The optimal preparation condition for the paste was determined to be PTF (0.63%), TPM (2.5%), and CNTs (1.35%). The surface resistivity of the coated fabric prepared with these parameters was as low as 4.5×104 Ω, close to the theoretical value, indicating the practical application value of the response surface methodology. The study designed and prepared square, circular, and triangular mesh-print coated fabrics and evaluated their antistatic performance. The surface resistances of the square, circular, and triangular mesh-print coated fabrics were 2.12×105 Ω, 2.87×105 Ω, and 3.12×105 Ω, respectively. The test results also showed that the electric charge density fell within the range of 2.5-2.8 μC/cm2, and the static half period test was between 3.5-4.2. Comparison with the antistatic test results of the overall coated fabric revealed that the mesh coated fabrics were able to achieve a very similar antistatic level, and the area of the mesh-print coating was only 50% of the entire fabric. The mesh-print coated fabric was subjected to wear performance tests, including simulating 25 home washes, sandpaper abrasion, and immersion in acidic and alkaline solutions with pH value ranged from 1 to 14, and the mesh-print coated fabric demonstrated excellent stability in antistatic performance. The mesh-print coated fabrics were also evaluated for photothermal response. Under the irradiation of a xenon lamp simulating sunlight, the coated surface temperature reached up to 72.5 ℃, showing excellent stability.

      Conclusion The antistatic performance of the mesh-print coated fabrics designed and prepared in this study was comparable to that of the commerically coated fabrics, with a 50% reduction in the amount of coating paste used, which reduces production costs and improves material utilization. However, a comprehensive understanding of the mesh-print coated fabrics requires a systematic study to investigate the impact of parameters such as mesh shape design, mesh printing area, and mesh width on antistatic performance to design the optimal mesh coating scheme.

      Self-assembly and sensing applications of patterned conductive fabric matrix
      CHEN Qi, WU Qi, XU Jinlin, JIA Hao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  218-226.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240908001
      Abstract ( 29 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (14099KB) ( 7 )   Save
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      Objective Flexible sensor devices based on fabrics have shown wide application prospects in fields such as healthcare and human-computer interaction in recent years due to their excellent bendability, good flexibility, and breathability. However, the roughness of the fabric surface makes it difficult to construct high-precision electrode patterns and structures on its surface. Therefore, using low-pressure ultraviolet light and chemical surface treatment methods, a high-precision and high-sensitivity patterned conductive matrix was constructed on the surface of the fabric.

      Method By combining nano silver composite conductive dispersion with fabric substrate and using low-pressure ultraviolet light irradiation and chemical treatment methods, the surface energy differentiation of specific parts of the fabric surface is achieved, resulting in differences in hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity. This leads to the positioning, attachment, and spreading of the conductive dispersion on the fabric surface. The positioning, adhesion, and spreading of conductive dispersion on the substrate surface were regulated through microstructure morphology construction and surface chemical structure, thereby achieving specific conductive circuit patterns on non-planar substrates.

      Results To improve the sensitivity and stability of conductive dispersion in sensing applications, silver nanowires were prepared using the polyol method, and carbon nanofibers were introduced to prepare a highly sensitive sensing nano silver composite conductive dispersion. Preparation of high aspect ratio silver nanowires by adjusting silver ion concentration and high-temperature reaction time. Through the synergistic effect between silver nanowires and carbon nanofibers, high aspect ratio silver nanowires were used as the conductive skeleton, and brittle carbon nanofibers are introduced as the "weak link". When the base fabric was stretched, the brittle carbon nanofibers would be shifted first, causing a change in resistance and improving the sensitivity of the conductive network. In order to obtain a sensing fabric substrate with higher fineness and adhesion, the mass ratio of long-chain silane to TiO2 was used to regulate the substrate roughness. It was found that when the mass ratio of long-chain silane to TiO2 was 1∶3, the surface roughness of the hydrophobic fabric became higher, which is conducive to the adhesion of the conductive dispersion and reduces the time cost. As the proportion of long-chain silane increases, the depth of the fabric surface increases, resulting in a higher surface roughness of hydrophobic fabrics. Due to the mechanical anchoring effect, increasing surface roughness can enhance the adhesion between the deposited metal pattern and the substrate. Finally, the UV illumination time was set to 30 minutes. UV irradiation was found to be able to break anaerobic bonds, induce substrate oxidation, cause changes in surface structure, and increase surface energy and adhesion. Using a nano silver composite conductive dispersion with a volume ratio of 20% ethylene glycol, it showed good stability and self-assembled circuits with a small fineness of up to 100 μm. After adjusting the solvent composition, the nano silver composite conductive dispersion quickly and accurately adhered to the hydrophilic region of the self-assembled patterned fabrics with good resolution. The conductive matrix prepared by this method achieved stable cyclic performance at strains of 1%, 5%, 10%, and 15%, and sensitively captured signals of small vibrations such as elastic ruler vibration, Adam's apple vibration, blinking, and finger bending. The resistance remained stable after 200 bending, twisting, and friction cycles.

      Conclusion This strain sensor has high sensitivity in capturing signals of small vibrations and can monitor and record different degrees of limb movements. As the degree of limb bending increases, it displays varying degrees of changes in electrical resistivity. These results demonstrate the potential of the sensor in monitoring human motion. With the rapid development of artificial intelligence and IoT technology, smart wearable electronic products have attracted more attention. The method used in this research is simple to operate, cost-effective, and can be integrated into various complex patterned conductive lines. In addition to strain sensors, it can also be applied in fields such as fabric thermal management and health textiles, and its application can be expanded to achieve multifunctional development of products.

      Preparation and properties of bismuth oxide-silicone rubber-based X-ray protective fabrics
      LI Xin, YE Peipei, ZHAO Xiaoman, WANG Hongbo, YANG Guorong, HONG Jianhan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  227-235.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240908401
      Abstract ( 29 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (8600KB) ( 9 )   Save
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      Objective X-ray, as a short-wave ionizing radiation source, is widely used in the fields of national defense, industrial flaw detection, medical diagnosis and treatment, archaeology and other fields. However, the overdose of X-ray radiation may cause serious harm to the human body and the environment. Most of the common radiation shielding materials contain lead. The lead and its compounds have high density and strong cumulative toxicity, and the prepared protective materials are bulky and with poor elasticity, which limit in the application of radiation protection. Therefore, it is necessary to develop lead-free, lightweight, and non-toxic flexible X-ray radiation protective materials.

      Method A bismuth oxide-silicone rubber-based X-ray flexible protective fabric was prepared through surface coating process. Micro-nanoscale bismuth oxide was selected as the protective filler, silicone rubber as the coating carrier. The microscopy morphology, physical and mechanical properties and X-ray radiation protection properties of coated samples were characterized and analyzed. The influence of bismuth oxide content on the physical and mechanical properties of X-ray protective materials and their X-ray protective properties were studied.

      Results The areal density of PET substrate fabric increased with the increasing content of bismuth oxide when the bismuth oxide content per 100 g of silicone rubber was lower than 360 g.The maximum areal density was 474 g/m2. When 100 g of silicone rubber contains more than 360 g of the bismuth oxide, the areal density of the coated material showed slight decrease and gradually reached a static level. The increase in bismuth oxide content made the thickness of PET fabric increase and then followed by a decrease. When the content of bismuth oxide reached 240 g per 100 g of silicone rubber, the PET fabric was with the maximum thickness of 0.39 mm. The density of flexible protective materials with different bismuth oxide contents was in the range of 0.8 to 1.6 g/cm3, compared to 3.79 g/cm3of the commercial lead-containing protective materials. It is evident that the density of the prepared coated fabric was significantly lower than that of conventional lead-containing protective materials.

      The coated fabrics exhibited poor bending performance comparing with the pristine fabric. The bending elastic modulus tended to increase first and then decrease with the increase of bismuth oxide content. The SEM and EDS images showed that the bismuth oxide powder was dispersed evenly in the silicone rubber when the bismuth oxide content per 100 g of silicone rubber was less than 240 g. When the bismuth oxide content per 100 g of silicone rubber exceeded 240 g, the bismuth oxide powder gradually formed some self-aggregated particles, resulting in poor dispersion in the silicone rubber. When the bismuth oxide content per 100 g of silicone rubber reached 240 g, the bismuth element was evenly and densely distributed on the fabric surface. There was no powder dropping on the surface of the fabric sample, which was conducive to X-ray protection and practical application. The coating of bismuth oxide-silicone rubber enhanced the breaking strength of PET fabrics. The breaking elongation of coated fabrics was lower than the pristine sample except for the fabrics with bismuth oxide contents of 180 to 240 g per 100 g of silicone rubber. The highest X-ray protection ratio of PET fabrics was 28.81% when the bismuth oxide content reached 360 g per 100 g of silicone rubber. However, when the bismuth oxide content per 100 g of silicone rubber was 240 g, the highest X-ray protection ratio per unit density of PET fabric reached 29.73%.

      Conclusion The maximum thickness of coated PET fabric was 0.39 mm when the content of bismuth oxide reached 240 g per 100 g of silicone rubber. The density of flexible protective materials with different bismuth oxide contents was in the range of 0.8 to 1.6 g/cm3, which was significantly lower than that of conventional lead-containing protective materials. The maximum load of bismuth oxide was 360 g per 100 g of silicone rubber. Bwteen bismuth oxide content 0 and 360 g per 100 g of silicone rubber, 240 g was found the the optimal for lightweight and softness. For practical application of flexible X-ray protective materials, dispersion uniformity of bismuth oxide in silicone rubber and drop of particles from the fabric surface are two important considerations. The bismuth oxide content of less than 240 g per 100 g of silicone rubber should be selected, considering the parameters of X-ray protection performance, softness and mechanical properties of the coated PET fabrics, the optimal filling amount of bismuth oxide per 100 g of silicone rubber was 240 g. The X-ray protection ratio per unit density of PET fabric was 29.73%. The X-ray protection ratio was approximated to be 31.9% for the nanocomposite materials prepared with polymethyl methylmethacrylate (PMMA) as the polymer matrix and bismuth oxide nanoparticles as the filler. In addition, the thermal stability and the breaking strength of PET fabrics after coating was improved.

      Apparel Engineering
      Automatic generation of high-precision garment patterns based on improved deep learning model
      HUANG Xiaoyuan, HOU Jue, YANG Yang, LIU Zheng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  236-243.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240906201
      Abstract ( 38 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3397KB) ( 31 )   Save
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      Objective The generation of garment patterns has long been an important research focus in the field of garment product development and garment CAD. Addressing the issue of poor pattern accuracy due to the lack of consideration of garment-specific knowledge during the conversion of 3-D garments into 2-D patterns, which results in patterns that cannot be directly applied, this paper proposes an automatic method for high-precision 3-D garment pattern generation based on the combination of deep learning and expert knowledge.

      Method This paper adopted a deep learning-based approach, improving the model by integrating garment pattern requirements and expert knowledge into the NeuralTailor hybrid framework. As the first step, cubic and quartic Bezier curves, as well as right-angle constraints, were added to enhance the garment pattern dataset generator, producing a professional high-precision pattern and 3-D garment model dataset, solving the previous issue of accurately representing complex curves in garment patterns. Then, an edge length loss function was introduced in the training loss of the NeuralTailor framework. Combined with expert knowledge of garment structural design, a fuzzy mathematical model was used to assess garment fit, adjusting the corresponding pattern arcs and optimizing edge details of the generated patterns. This made the improved model capable of automatically generating more precise patterns that better met industrial application requirements. Finally, physical simulations and real-world scanned 3-D garment models were used for case validation.

      Results The improved model was evaluated through comparative experiments. Quantitative analysis of the evaluation metrics for different models showed that the pattern shape error of this model was reduced by 0.69 cm compared to the pre-improvement model, with the pattern shape error being less than 2 cm, which falls within the acceptable bust tolerance range for garment production. Translation and rotation errors were also reduced, and the accuracy of the number of pattern edges increased to 100%, indicating improvements in pattern similarity and the prediction of pattern position information. Validation was performed using the 3-D garments from the dataset, 3-D models simulated with other software, and 3-D models from the real-world scanned public dataset MGN. The experimental results indicate that there were significant discrepancies between the patterns generated by the original NeuralTailor model and the actual garment patterns, such as the neckline and sleeve shapes highlighted by black boxes, large differences in seam length, missing pattern pieces, and the inability to segment the placket for closed garments. The method proposed in this paper was shown to be able to accurately predict the pattern shapes of the 3-D garments in the dataset. Although errors might occur around the placket and the accuracy of dart prediction needs improvement for physically simulated and real scanned garments, the garment patterns exhibited good accuracy, capable of predicting higher-precision patterns with pattern curves.

      Conclusion The research reported in this paper improves the deep learning model by incorporating garment drafting standards and expert knowledge, using the enhanced NeuralTailor framework to generate garment patterns, followed by professional optimization based on expert knowledge of garment structure. Experimental results from physical simulations and actual 3-D garment scans demonstrate that this method can predict standardized garment patterns. The improved model provides a new professional pattern generation method for virtual try-on and garment design and manufacturing. In the future, robustness studies should be conducted on fabric properties, body shapes, or posture changes, and more extensive garment structure expert knowledge can be integrated for the generation of specialized patterns.

      Structural modeling and process implementation of fully formed protective hat based on characteristic region of head
      LUO Xuan, ZHOU Yi, LI Duan, LIU Bo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(02):  244-250.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240302001
      Abstract ( 32 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (4809KB) ( 18 )   Save
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      Objective The existing protective hats primarily rely on cutting and sewing methods to accommodate the protection of the human head and face. It is important to make the protective hats better fit the contour curves of the human head, face and neck, to improve wearing comfort, and to combine functional yarns in order to enhance the added value of the protective hats and expand its application areas. This research is carried out to explore the three-dimensional structure of the protective hat based on the use of full-forming knitting technology.

      Method The research took the human head-and-neck model as the starting point, aiming to determine the relevant feature size parameters. The protective hat was divided into five main characteristic areas according to the functional requirements. Based on the full-forming knitting process, the structural model of the front and side knit protective hat was constructed, and the process model of the knit requirements was achieved through two-dimensional template conversion.

      Results Three types of protective hats were made through trial knitting on a four-needle-bed computerized flatbed knitting machine. This state-of-the-art equipment allows precise control of the knitting parameters and ensures high-quality knitting results. Front knitting made use of a partial knitting technique, whereby knitting was done selectively on certain needles to create a specific pattern or opening. This technique was used to manufacture the eye openings to ensure functionality and ergonomics for the wearer. In addition, the neck had a cylindrical structure which was optimized to enhance the fit of the neck, ensuring that the hat is comfortable and secure to wear so as to provide better protection without compromising on comfort. The side knitting was carried out based on the same partial knit technique to achieve a single longitudinal knit from the top of the head to the back of the neck. This design approach ensures that the hat would fit more naturally to the contours of the head, providing a seamless fit with improved comfort and protection. In general, the use of needle shifting technology played a vital role in the overall design. This technique enabled intricate designs and better fit. Combined with multi-size process calculations, this method ensured that the connection between the hat rim and the body of the hat is precise and tight. This meticulous approach made it certain that the face-wrapping area would fit closely to the contours of the face, providing superior protection and a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. By utilizing advanced seamless knitting technology, the front and side knitting process not only improved the performance of the protective hat but also met the specific needs of various protection scenarios.

      Conclusion The structural design and knitting of the three-dimensional fully formed protective hat were investigated based on a four-needle bed computer flat knitting machine, and the application of front and side knitting technology in three-dimensional structure shaping of protective hat was deeply analyzed. Through the integrated forming technology, the knitted hat was made to fit the human head and face curves, which not only solves the problem of reduced comfort due to excessive sewing and splicing of the traditional hat, but also optimizes the adaptability of the hat body to the head features, which significantly improves the wearing experience and protection effectiveness. The added value of the protective hat can be added by introducing functional yarns and designing fabric structures for specific areas. The knitting material can be adjusted according to different use scenarios to meet the functional and safety requirements of the protective hat.