Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (01): 26-31.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20171105306

• Fiber Materials • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Evaluation on comprehesive physical properties of special animal fibers based on gray clustering

XING Lijuan1, LIU Xinjin1(), SU Xuzhong1, CAO Xiuming2   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Jiangsu Sunshine Group Co., Ltd., Jiangyin, Jiangsu 214426, China
  • Received:2017-11-28 Revised:2018-09-14 Online:2019-01-15 Published:2019-01-18
  • Contact: LIU Xinjin E-mail:liuxinjin2006@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to explore the comprehensive physical properties of special animal fibers, the length, fineness, strength, curl and friction of nine kinds of animal fibers were tested in the same environment with the camel hair, the cashmere and the yakwool as the research objects. The gray clustering analysis method was used to evaluate the comprehensive physical properties of special animal fibers. The white cashmere, yellow camel hair and black yakwool were selected, and the properties of 14.29 tex and 20.83 tex yarns were spun by four-rollers compact spinning with lattice apron and comparative analysis. The results showed that white cashmere and camel hair have the best physical properties. The physical properties of white cashmere are the second; and the purple cashmere, blue yakwool, black yakwool, blue cashmere and bleached yakwool are the worst. In the different thickness of yarns spun by four-rollers compact spinning, the overall performance of white cashmere yarns is the best, the yellow camel hair is the second, and the black yakwool are the worst. The results are consistent with the comprehensive physical properties of the fibers evaluated by gray clustering analysis.

Key words: camel hair, cashmere, yakwool, physical property, gray clustering analysis

CLC Number: 

  • TS102.3

Tab.1

Fiber physical performance indicators"

品种 纤维编号 平均长度/mm 长度不匀率/% 15 mm以下短绒率/% 线密度/dtex 线密度不匀率/% 强力/cN 卷曲数/(个·(25 mm)-1) 卷曲率/% 卷曲回复率/% 静摩擦因数 动摩擦因数
u1 u2 u'1 u'2
黑牦牛绒 1# 26.6 39.1 29.8 3.60 25.05 9.29 5.3 12.06 10.97 0.239 0 0.286 5 0.320 0 0.382 5
青牦牛绒 2# 25.9 38.9 27.7 3.49 24.53 7.57 6.1 8.38 7.80 0.230 8 0.291 7 0.321 2 0.390 4
脱色牦牛绒 3# 25.7 39.7 21.8 3.44 25.72 4.89 8.5 12.11 10.99 0.231 2 0.283 7 0.312 1 0.401 7
白山羊绒 4# 35.5 37.5 22.9 2.47 20.12 6.52 6.6 10.06 9.37 0.236 3 0.298 7 0.345 3 0.399 3
紫山羊绒 5# 30.9 37.2 29.0 2.74 22.54 5.94 4.4 4.26 3.74 0.239 0 0.302 2 0.333 8 0.411 6
青山羊绒 6# 33.6 38.0 28.3 2.81 21.79 5.61 5.3 3.59 3.40 0.230 1 0.301 8 0.336 0 0.415 6
白羊羔绒 7# 30.5 35.7 30.5 2.96 25.57 5.62 5.7 5.45 5.12 0.236 6 0.332 6 0.342 2 0.412 8
白骆驼绒 8# 36.3 42.9 19.9 3.04 29.20 6.21 8.3 9.11 7.90 0.238 6 0.299 6 0.347 7 0.410 2
黄骆驼绒 9# 41.5 40.5 14.0 2.87 27.74 6.47 7.6 6.54 5.34 0.239 9 0.299 0 0.343 1 0.408 6

Tab.2

Interval of whiting of grey number"

聚类指标 k1(好) k2(中) k3(差)
平均长度 [1.083,1.304] [0.917,1.083] [0.807,0.917]
长度不匀率 [1.030,1.084] [0.970,1.030] [0.902,0.970]
15 mm以下短绒率 [1.151,1.675] [0.849,1.151] [0.770,0.849]
线密度 [1.064,1.218] [0.936,1.064] [0.836,0.936]
离散率 [1.063,1.213] [0.937,1.063] [0.834,0.937]
强力 [1.114,1.439] [0.886,1.114] [0.757,0.886]
卷曲数 [1.106,1.324] [0.894,1.106] [0.685,0.894]
卷曲率 [1.179,1.523] [0.821,1.179] [0.452,0.821]
卷曲回复率 [1.176,1.530] [0.824,1.176] [0.473,0.824]
静摩擦(顺)因数 [1.007,1.018] [0.993,1.007] [0.976,0.993]
静摩擦(逆)因数 [1.027,1.110] [0.973,1.027] [0.947,0.973]
动摩擦(顺)因数 [1.018,1.046] [0.982,1.018] [0.939,0.982]
动摩擦(逆)因数 [1.014,1.032] [0.986,1.014] [0.950,0.986]

Fig.1

Four-roller lattice apron compact spinning system"

Tab.3

Spinning process design"

品种 线密度/tex 粗纱定量/(g·m-1) 捻度/(捻·m-1) 总牵伸倍数 钢丝圈号 隔距大小/mm 锭子速度/(r·min-1)
白山羊绒 14.29 0.3 851 43.5 6903 9/0 3.0 7 000
20.83 0.4 753 39.9 6903 6/0 4.0 9 000
黄骆驼绒 14.29 0.3 824 43.8 6903 9/0 3.0 8 000
20.83 0.4 725 40.2 6903 6/0 4.0 9 000
黑牦牛绒 14.29 0.3 1 035 43.9 6903 9/0 3.0 5 000
20.83 0.4 776 40.3 6903 6/0 4.0 7 000

Tab.4

Evenness and tensile performances of yarn"

品种 线密度/
tex		 强力/
cN		 伸长率/
%		 CV值/
%		 纱疵/(个·km-1)
细节(-50%) 粗节(+50%) 毛粒(+200%)
白山羊绒 14.29 92.5 17.7 16.9 287 100 24
20.83 153.6 17.1 12.7 11 13 10
黄驼绒 14.29 89.2 9.8 17.3 310 130 35
20.83 146.9 11.9 14.6 65 63 3
黑牦牛绒 14.29 80.5 4.7 18.5 425 235 155
20.83 97.6 9.1 15.9 115 61 26
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