Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (04): 55-59.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180200605

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design and properties of functional weft-knitted twill denim fabric

WAN Ailan1,2(), MIAO Xuhong1,2, MA Pibo1,2, CHEN Qing1,2, CHEN Fangfang1,2   

  1. 1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education,Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-02-01 Revised:2019-01-16 Online:2019-04-15 Published:2019-04-16

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Abstract:

Weft-knitted twill denim fabrics were designed using polyester filament by a needle loop and two floats composite structure with six cam systems. The thermal property and moisture absorption were achieved using the special-shaped hollow warm polyester and Coolmax® fiber, without depending on the thickness and the density of the fabric to increase the warmth retention property, and improve the moisture absorption of denim fabrics and wearing comfort. By comparison with common polyester fiber, fracture strength, wear resistance, drapability and air permeability of weft-knitted twill denim fabrics were characterized. The results show that the heat preservation ratio increases by 23.4% using warm polyester, and the wicking height of horizontal direction is highly improved 4-10 times within 1-10 min with Coolmax® fiber.

Key words: weft-knitted twill denim fabric, special-shaped hollow polyester, Coolmax® fiber, warmth retention, moisture absorption

CLC Number: 

  • TS184

Tab.1

Yarns specifications of weft-knitted twill denim fabrics"

纱线种类 线密度/tex 编号
靛蓝棉纱 29.15 A
Coolmax??纤维 8.30 B1
中空异形聚酯纤维 16.60 B2
普通聚酯纤维 8.30
16.60		 C1
C2
氨纶 4.40
7.80		 OP1
OP2

Fig.1

Knitting diagram of twill structure with six cam systems for weft-knitted denim fabric"

Tab.2

Materials and gray fabric specifications of weft-knitted denim fabrics"

试样
编号		 机号 各原料的线圈长度/mm 面密度/
(g·m-2)
1# E28 A: 3.105;C2: 1.50;OP1: 1.15 265
2# E28 A: 3.25;B2: 1.45;OP1: 1.15 270
3# E24 A: 1.45;C1: 2.80;OP2: 1.00 320
4# E24 A: 1.45;B1: 2.70;OP2: 1.00 310

Tab.3

Finished fabrics parameters of weft-knitted denim fabrics"

试样
编号		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 横密/
(纵行数·
(5 cm)-1)		 纵密/
(横列数·
(5 cm)-1)		 各原料
所占比例/%
1# 271 74 92 A: 76; C2: 20; OP1: 4
2# 275 74 92 A: 63; B2: 33; OP1: 4
3# 322 90 138 A: 58; C1: 32; OP2: 10
4# 315 80 170 A: 58; B1: 30; OP2: 12

Tab.4

Heat retention of weft-knitted denim fabrics with special-shaped hollow polyester"

试样编号 保温率/% 导热系数/(W·(m·℃)-1) 克罗值
1# 14.02 94.26 0.07
2# 17.31 73.27 0.09

Tab.5

Tensile breaking strength of weft-knitted twill denim fabrics with special-shaped hollow polyester"

试样
编号		 断裂强力 伸长率
平均值/N CV值/% 平均值/% CV值/%
纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向
1# 303 515 2.39 2.92 136 126 2.90 3.19
2# 290 538 7.19 19.50 136 109 4.23 2.97

Tab.6

Wearability of weft-knitted twill denim fabrics with special-shaped hollow polyester"

试样编号 耐磨次数 静态悬垂系数/% 透气率/(mm·s-1)
1# 41 73.5 183.5
2# 59 72.5 158.5

Fig.2

Vertical core suction height contrast"

Tab.7

Tensile breaking strength of weft-knitted twill denim fabrics with Coolmax?? fibers"

试样
编号		 断裂强力 伸长率
平均值/N CV值/% 平均值/% CV值/%
纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向 纵向 横向
3# 282 566 5.06 9.80 335 140 0.71 4.74
4# 352 598 4.38 1.43 341 192 2.46 4.22

Tab.8

Wearability of weft-knitted twill denim fabrics with Coolmax?? fibers"

试样编号 耐磨次数 静态悬垂系数/% 透气率/(mm·s-1)
3# 82 75.0 116.5
4# 69 73.0 90.0
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