Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 36-40.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180301506

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design principle and method of texture effect in jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure

ZHANG Aidan(), ZHOU Jiu   

  1. Silk Institute, College of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2018-03-05 Revised:2019-02-01 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21

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Abstract:

In order to endue the jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure with outstand texture effect, two types of combination weaves including honeycomb and mock leno were employed as basic weaves to create series of derivative weaves by increasing the repeat number in three different directions, and thus fabric samples were produced under the condition of high density. By means of the comparative analysis on fabric texture effect, it is shown that the increasing of the weave repeat number can strengthen the emboss texture effect of fabric samples using honeycomb weaves and visual texture effect of mock leno. Application design case further evidences that the proposed design method solves the problem of interwoven balance between the full-color compound structure and the texture weaves, and creates different gradient levels of fabric texture weaves for the jacquard fabric, and it provides inspiring references for the creative design of jacquard fabrics based on full-color compound structure with abundant fabric texture effect.

Key words: jacquard fabric, full-color compound structure, texture weave, texture effect

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Three design directions of increasing repeat number. (a) Basic weave; (b) Weft direction; (c) Warp direction;(d) Double direction"

Fig.2

Three texture weaves with increasing repeat number in weft direction(Rj=6)"

Fig.3

Three texture weaves with increasing repeat number in warp direction(Rw=6)"

Fig.4

Texture weaves with increasing repeat number in two directions"

Fig.5

Five basic texture weaves"

Tab.1

Incremental design of weave repeat number in weft direction"

基础
组织编号		 不同递增倍数下组织循环数(经向×纬向)
0 2 3 4 8
F1 6×6 12×6 — 24×6 —
F2 12×12 24×12 32×12 48×12 —
F3 16×16 32×16 48×16 — —
T1 6×8 12×8 — 24×8 48×8
T2 16×16 32×16 48×16 — —

Fig.6

Fabric samples of honeycomb weaves"

Fig.7

Fabric samples of mock leno weaves"

Fig.8

Design flow diagram"

Fig.9

Three mock leno weaves with different increasing repeat numbers in weft direction"

Fig.10

Jacquard fabric effect. (a) Final fabric in part;(b) Fabric effect in detail"

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