Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 36-40.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180301506

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design principle and method of texture effect in jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure

ZHANG Aidan(), ZHOU Jiu   

  1. Silk Institute, College of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2018-03-05 Revised:2019-02-01 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21

RichHTML

5

PDF (PC)

92

Abstract:

In order to endue the jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure with outstand texture effect, two types of combination weaves including honeycomb and mock leno were employed as basic weaves to create series of derivative weaves by increasing the repeat number in three different directions, and thus fabric samples were produced under the condition of high density. By means of the comparative analysis on fabric texture effect, it is shown that the increasing of the weave repeat number can strengthen the emboss texture effect of fabric samples using honeycomb weaves and visual texture effect of mock leno. Application design case further evidences that the proposed design method solves the problem of interwoven balance between the full-color compound structure and the texture weaves, and creates different gradient levels of fabric texture weaves for the jacquard fabric, and it provides inspiring references for the creative design of jacquard fabrics based on full-color compound structure with abundant fabric texture effect.

Key words: jacquard fabric, full-color compound structure, texture weave, texture effect

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Three design directions of increasing repeat number. (a) Basic weave; (b) Weft direction; (c) Warp direction;(d) Double direction"

Fig.2

Three texture weaves with increasing repeat number in weft direction(Rj=6)"

Fig.3

Three texture weaves with increasing repeat number in warp direction(Rw=6)"

Fig.4

Texture weaves with increasing repeat number in two directions"

Fig.5

Five basic texture weaves"

Tab.1

Incremental design of weave repeat number in weft direction"

基础
组织编号		 不同递增倍数下组织循环数(经向×纬向)
0 2 3 4 8
F1 6×6 12×6 — 24×6 —
F2 12×12 24×12 32×12 48×12 —
F3 16×16 32×16 48×16 — —
T1 6×8 12×8 — 24×8 48×8
T2 16×16 32×16 48×16 — —

Fig.6

Fabric samples of honeycomb weaves"

Fig.7

Fabric samples of mock leno weaves"

Fig.8

Design flow diagram"

Fig.9

Three mock leno weaves with different increasing repeat numbers in weft direction"

Fig.10

Jacquard fabric effect. (a) Final fabric in part;(b) Fabric effect in detail"

[1] NG Frankie, ZHOU Jiu. Innovative layered-combination mode for digital jacquard fabric design[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2009,79(8):737-743.
[2] 周赳, 屠永坚. 有彩数码提花织物结构设计的实践与分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2008,29(4):54-57.
ZHOU Jiu, TU Yongjian. Practice and analysis of structural design for colorful digital jacquard fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2008,29(4):54-57.
[3] 荆妙蕾. 凹凸组织织物的花型设计及应用[J]. 毛纺科技, 2005,33(7):32-34.
JING Miaolei. Pattern design and application of cloky weave fabric[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2005,33(7):32-34.
[4] 曲微微. 论提花面料的触觉肌理设计[J]. 山东纺织科技, 2010,51(4):30-32.
QU Weiwei. Discussing texture effect design in jacquard fabrics[J]. Shandong Textile Science and Technology, 2010,51(4):31-32.
[5] HALACELI Havva. Relief effects of woven elastic fabrics in view of crafted surfaces[J]. Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences, 2012,51:348-352.
[6] 苑国祥, 姜绶祥, 纽德华, 等. 激光处理在服装设计中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2011,32(10):98-103.
YUAN Guoxiang, JIANG Shouxiang, NEWTON Edward, et al. Laser surface treatment for fashion design[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2011,32(10):98-103.
[7] 顾平. 织物的凹凸浮雕效应及其组织设计[J]. 四川丝绸, 2008 (1):13-15.
GU Ping. Embossing effect of fabric based on weave structure design[J]. Sichuan Silk, 2008 (1):13-15.
[8] 许雅婷. 基于组合全显色结构的纹理效果数码提花织物设计研究与实践[D]. 杭州: 浙江理工大学, 2014: 19-29.
XU Yating. Design research and practice on texture effect digital jacquard fabric based on compound full-color struc-ture [D]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, 2014: 19-29.
[9] 罗秉芬. 基于提花纹理的织印一体面料设计研究与实践[D]. 杭州:浙江理工大学, 2017: 25.
LUO Bingfen. Design research and practice on integration fabric of jacquard and printing based on jacquard texture [D]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, 2017: 25.
[10] 许雅婷, 周赳. 基于全显色结构的提花纹理设计研究与实践[J]. 丝绸, 2014,35(5):49-53.
XU Yating, ZHOU Jiu. Design study and practice of jacquard fabric texture based on full-coloring struc-ture[J]. Journal of Silk, 2014,35(5):49-53.
[11] 彭稀, 周赳. 基于蜂巢和全显色组织的肌理效果提花织物设计[J]. 丝绸, 2018 (5):73-77.
PENG Xi, ZHOU Jiu. Jacquard fabric design with texture effect based on honeycomb and full coloring weaves[J]. Journal of Silk, 2018 (5):73-77.
[12] ZHANG Aidan, ZHOU Jiu. Color rendering in single-layer jacquard fabrics using sateen shaded weave databases based on three transition directions[J]. Text Res J, 2018,88(11):1290-1298.
[1] PENG Xi, ZHOU Jiu. Characteristics and evolution of backed weave structure of brocade in ancient China [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(09): 67-75.
[2] ZHANG Aidan, ZHOU Jiu. Grayscale simulation characteristics of jacquard fabric with cluster-dotted structure [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(03): 62-67.
[3] ZHOU Jiu, LU Shuangyi. Design principal and practice of layered-combination mode for digital jacquard fabric [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(02): 58-63.
[4] LIANG Jialu, CONG Honglian, ZHANG Aijun. Technical design model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(01): 69-74.
[5] . Design research and practice on gradient weft-full-backed structure [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2018, 39(01): 32-38.
[6] . Design of high pattern jacquard fabric based on shaded weaves [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(05): 49-52.
[7] . Deformation simulation of double jacquard fabric with mass-spring model [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(01): 146-151.
[8] . Defect detection for mini-jacquard fabric based on visual saliency [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(12): 38-42.
[9] . Computer simulation of warp knitted dodge lap jacquard fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(12): 134-139.
[10] . Simulation design of digital jacquard fabric based on separated color gamut of Red-Green-Blue [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(07): 61-65.
[11] . Computer simulation and system realization of 3-D weft knitted jacquard fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(07): 155-161.
[12] . Design principle and method of color gradient expression on double-warp double-weft jacquard fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(06): 36-41.
[13] . Structural analysis and technical design of warp knitted broché fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2016, 37(01): 52-56.
[14] . Design of double-face jacquard fabric based on full-color structure [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2015, 36(05): 39-43.
[15] . Grey simulative design of digital jacquard fabric based on colorful image [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(2): 69-72.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd