Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (03): 59-64.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180405206

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper

ZHANG Qi1,2(), WEI Li1, XIA Fenglin1   

  1. 1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Hubei Provincial Key Laboratory of Digital Textile Equipment, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430077, China
  • Received:2018-04-23 Revised:2018-11-22 Online:2019-03-15 Published:2019-03-15

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Abstract:

Aiming to the difficult production of the warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper in one-time for the ordinary double-needle bed jacquard warp knitting machine, a comparative analysis was made on the weaving institutions of double needle bed one/double-jacquard warp knitting machine and two-color sesame point effect and the pure two-color jacquard effect, and a new comb configuration method and jacquard control system and new jacquard method were proposed. According to the new comb configuration method, the double needle bed seamless warp knitting machine was modified, and the interval comb was installed. The new jacquard control scheme was adopted to control the Pre-Jaka comb to weave in front needle bed selectively. In combination with a new color block jacquard process that overcomes the drawbacks of the existing two-color process due to excessive dots or slices connections hard to line the spacer filaments, a two-color stereo jacquard shoe with a spacer layer was successfully woven on the upgraded RDJ6/2 warp knitting machine finally. The results show that the key for development of warp-knitted three-layer and double color stereo jacquard shoe-upper is the assembly optimization of knitting structure, control system and jacquard process.

Key words: spacer, double color effect, 3-D jacquard, warp-knitting shoe-upper, double needle bed and double jacquard

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.3

Fig.1

Jacquard-bar configuration of warp knitting machine. (a) Single-knit with one jacquard bar; (b) Hollow-knit with double jacquard bars; (c) 3-D jacquard of double-knit with double jacquard bars"

Tab.1

Configuration of combs"

机器类型 梳栉编织位置
前针床 后针床 前后针床
双针床单贾卡经编机
(图1(a)RDPJ7/1)		 GB1、GB2 JB5、GB6、GB7 GB3、GB4形成间隔层
双针床双贾卡经编机
(图1(b)RDPJ4/2)		 GB1 GB4 JB2、JB3根据需要在前后针床选择性地
编织,并将前后片紧密地连接起来
新型双针床双贾卡立体
提花经编机(图1(c)
改造后的RDJ6/2)		 GB1、GB2 JB5、GB6 GB3形成间隔层,JB4根据需要选择性
地在前后针床进行编织,结合新工艺不
会将前后片紧密连接

Fig.2

Structure of 3-D jacquard control for double jacquard"

Tab.2

Jacquard principle of sesame dot"

提花效应 垫纱数码 偏移信号 组织颜色 绘图色号
厚组织 1-0-1-1/2-3-1-1// HHHHTTHH 红色 1号色
薄组织 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1// HHHHHHHH 绿色 4号色
薄组织 1-0-0-0/1-2-0-0// TTHHTTHH 蓝色 8号色
网孔组织 1-0-0-0/0-1-0-0// TTHHHHHH 白色 12号色
薄组织连接组织 1-0-1-2/1-2-1-1// TTHTHHHH 黄色 2号色
网孔组织连接组织 1-0-0-1/0-1-0-0// HHHTHHHH 浅绿色 18号色
厚组织连接组织 1-0-1-2/2-3-1-1// HHHTTTHH 浅粉色 23号色

Tab.3

Jacquard principle of pure color"

色纱 组织 垫纱数码 偏移信息
JB2
A色		 薄组织 1-0-2-2/1-2-1-1// HHHTHHHT
网孔组织 2-1-2-2/1-2-1-1// TTHTHHHT
厚组织 1-0-2-2/2-3-1-1// HHHTTTHT
JB2
B色		 薄组织 1-1-1-2/2-2-1-0// HTHHTHHH
网孔组织 1-1-1-2/2-2-1-0// HTHHTHHH
厚组织 1-1-1-2/2-2-1-0// HTHHTHHH
JB3
A色		 薄组织 0-0-1-2/1-1-1-0// THHHHTHH
网孔组织 0-0-1-2/1-1-1-0// THHHHTHH
厚组织 0-0-1-2/1-1-1-0// THHHHTHH
JB3
B色		 薄组织 1-0-1-1/1-2-0-0// HHHTHHTH
网孔组织 2-1-1-1/1-2-0-0// TTHTHHTH
厚组织 1-0-1-1/2-3-0-0// HHHTTTTH

Fig.3

Comparison of sesame dot and pure color. (a) Sesame dot; (b) Pure color"

Fig.4

Samples with color blocks"

Tab.4

Jacquard principle of color blocks"

提花效应 JB4 JB5
垫纱数码 偏移信息 垫纱数码 偏移信息
A色 1-1-2-1/2-2-1-2// HTTHTHHT 1-1-2-3/1-1-2-1// HHTTHHTT
B色 1-0-2-2/2-3-1-1// HHTTTTHH 1-1-2-3/1-1-3-2// HHHHHHTT

Fig.5

Jacquard drafted pattern and sample. (a) Front pattern;(b)Behind pattern;(c) Sample"

Tab.5

Machine parameters"

梳栉 垫纱数码 原料规格 穿经 送经量/
(mm·腊克-1)
GB1 0-1-1-1/
1-0-0-0//		 166.7 dtex
阳离子涤纶		 满穿 1 690
GB2 2-3-1-1/
1-0-1-1//		 166.7 dtex
阳离子涤纶		 满穿 2 500
GB3 1-0-2-1/
2-3-1-2//		 33.3 dtex
涤纶单丝		 满穿 7 600
JB4 1-0-1-1/
1-2-1-1//		 166.7 dtex
阳离子涤纶		 满穿 2 600
JB5 1-1-1-2/
1-1-1-0//		 222.2 dtex
涤纶		 满穿 2 550
GB6 0-0-0-1/
1-1-1-0//		 222.2 dtex
涤纶		 满穿 1 690
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