Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (04): 103-110.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180502508

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Generation of personalized garment pattern based on AutoCAD parameterization

YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng()   

  1. College of Light Industry, Textile and Food Engineering, Sichuan University, Chengdu, Sichuan 610065, China
  • Received:2018-05-10 Revised:2019-01-09 Online:2019-04-15 Published:2019-04-16
  • Contact: ZHANG Gaopeng E-mail:zgp@scu.edu.cn

Abstract:

In order to solve low production efficiency of garment pattern, repetitive work of pattern modification, and incapability of adapting well to personalized needs in the field of garment making, a new method for rapid creation of personalized garment patterns based on parametric plate making was proposed. Firstly, the double arc was used to fit the garment pattern contour curve, and combined with the parameterization function of AutoCAD, the parameterized curve constraint model was constructed. Based on this, a parameterized garment pattern was established. The results show that the double arc can accurately fit the clothing contour curve. The parametric curve restraining methods are versatile and flexible, and can adapt to all garment pattern contour curves. The parameterized garment pattern established by this method has good stability, and any parameter thereof can be modified, and pattern modification is highly efficient, intuitive and convenient, which greatly improves the efficiency of personalized garment pattern generation.

Key words: garment plate making, AutoCAD parameterization, garment pattern, new culture grament prototype, double arc parameterization constraint

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Fig.1

AutoCAD parameterization. (a) Parametric toolbar;(b) Geometric constraints toolbar; (c) Dimensional constraints toolbar"

Fig.2

Constraint settings"

Fig.3

Parameters manager"

Fig.4

Apparel pattern curves. (a) C-curve;(b) S-curve"

Fig.5

Sketch of double arc. (a) Double arc common tangent point trajectory; (b) Double arc"

Fig.6

Sketch of double arc drawing method. (a) Double arc common tangent point P; (b) Double arc"

Fig.7

Calculation model of double arc radius and length. (a)∠AOB is an obtuse angle; (b) ∠AOB is a right angle"

Fig.8

Sketch of angle constraint. (a)Angle constraint principle; (b) Sketch of geometric constraints"

Tab.1

Angle constraint data"

项目 名称 表达式 数值 类型
标注约
束参数
BOP 45° 45° 角度
前领深 前领宽+5 74 mm 竖直
前领宽 B/24+34 69 mm 水平
用户参数 B 840 840 mm 实时

Fig.9

Sketch of radius constraint. (a) Double arc radius; (b) Sketch of geometric constraints"

Tab.2

Radius constraint data"

项目 名称 表达式 数值 类型
标注约
束参数
前领宽 B/24+34 69 mm 水平
前领深
半径R
前领宽+5
半径大
74 mm
77.85 mm
竖直
半径
半径r 半径小 65.75 mm 半径
用户
参数
α arctan(前领深/前领宽) 47.00° 实时
半径大 前领深/(1-sinα+
cosα)
77.85 mm 实时
半径小 前领宽/(1+sinα-
cosα)
65.75 mm 实时
B 840 840 mm 实时

Tab.3

New cultural body prototype constraints data"

项目 约束对象 参数 表达式
标注
约束
参数
B1B2 背横线 80
B1B3 袖窿深线 B/12+137
B1B4 背长 背长
B3B6 背宽 B/8+74
F1F2 前侧缝线 背长-袖窿深线
F7F3 胸宽 B/8+62
F5F7 袖窿宽线定点 B/32
F6F7 前袖窿弧下切线定点 18
F1F5 前侧缝点 ((B+胸围放松量)/2-背宽-胸宽-袖窿宽线定点)/2
B6B7 后侧缝点 前侧缝点
F3F10 前中 B/5+83
F9F13 前领宽 B/24+34
F11F13 前领深 前领宽+5
F12F11F15 前肩斜线角度 22
F14F15 前肩斜线突出量 18
F3F8 胸省省尖点定点X 胸宽/2+7
F4F8 胸省省尖点定点Y 背长-袖窿深线
F16F17 胸省省量 B/12-32
B1B9 后领宽 前领宽+2
B10B9 后领深 后领宽/3
B1B8 后领窝弧线切点 后领宽/3
B2B12 肩胛省省尖点定点X 背宽/2+10
B1B12 肩胛省省尖点定点Y 80
B11 B10 B13 后肩斜线角度 18
B6B14 后袖窿弧切点 袖窿深线-背横线+5
F5F16 袖窿宽线 (袖窿深线-背横线)-5
B15B16 肩胛省省道边定点 15
B16B17 肩胛省省量 B/32-8
B10B13 后肩斜线长 前肩斜线长+肩胛省省量
B13 B10B18 后领窝控制角 90+前肩斜线角度
B10B13 B19 后袖窿弧上控制角 90
F11F15 F18 前袖窿弧上控制角1 90
F8F17 F18 前袖窿弧上控制角2 180-切线约束角度1
用户
参数
F11F15 前肩斜线长 (胸宽-前领宽)/cos(前肩斜线角度)+前肩斜线突出量
F8F16 省道边长 sqrt((胸宽-胸省省尖点定点X+袖窿宽线定点)2+(袖窿宽线)2)
F8F16F6 切线约束角度1 arctan(袖窿宽线/(袖窿宽线定点-前袖窿弧下切线定点))-arcsin(袖窿宽线/省道边长)

Fig.10

Rear and front piece of new culture body prototype constraint marker"

Fig.11

Rear and front piece of new culture body prototype geometric constraints"

Tab.4

Key parameters of new culture body prototype"

关键参数 表达式
B 840
背长 380
胸围放松量 120
胸宽 B/8+62
背宽 B/8+74
前领宽 B/24+34
前领深 前领宽+5
后领宽 前领宽+2
后领深 后领宽/3
前肩斜线角度 22
后肩斜线角度 18
胸省省量 B/12-32
胸省省尖点定点X 胸宽/2+7
胸省省尖点定点Y 背长-袖窿深线
肩胛省省量 B/32-8
肩胛省省尖点定点X 背宽/2+10
肩胛省省尖点定点Y 80

Fig.12

Comparison sketch of bust and back length adjustment"

Tab.5

Bust and back length adjustment datamm"

样版 B 背长
原始版 840 380
修改1 790 370
修改2 890 390

Fig.13

Comparison sketch of front and rear collar adjustment"

Tab.6

Front and rear collar adjustment data mm"

样版 前领宽 前领深 后领宽 后领深
原始版 69 74 71 71/3
修改1 64 69 66 66/3
修改2 74 79 76 76/3

Fig.14

Comparison sketch of front and rear shoulderslant angle adjustment"

Tab.7

Front and rear shoulder slant angle adjustment data"

样版 前肩斜线角度/(°) 后肩斜线角度/(°)
原始版 22 18
修改1 20 20
修改2 24 16

Fig.15

Comparison sketch of bust dart and shoulder dart adjustment"

Tab.8

Bust dart and shoulder dart adjustment data"

样版 胸省/mm 肩胛省/mm
定点
X
定点
Y
省量 定点
X
定点
Y
省量
原始版
修改1
修改2
90.5
85.5
95..5
173
173
173
38
33
43
99.5
104.5
94.5
80
75
85
18.25
15.25
21.25
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