Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 41-46.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180600706

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Principle and application of partial knitting on fully formed sweater

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-06-01 Revised:2018-10-29 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21
  • Contact: WU Zhiming E-mail:wxwuzm@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to better realize the partial three-dimensional forming of fully formed sweater, the application of the partial knitting principle on fully formed sweater based on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3 was researched emphatically. The partial knitting process was divided into normal partial knitting and partial knitting in proportion according to the knitting methods. The application of partial knitting in shoulder slope, neck, lower hem, hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top was discussed. The results show that the normal partial knitting can be applied to form the oblique line shape with smooth and smooth outer edge, front and back neck drop curve, irregular lower hem. The partial knitting in proportion is the unique knitting method of fully formed sweater. It is mainly applied in the process of hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top. It is applied to maintain a tubular balance and realize the connection of sleeves and body and a tube fabric with a certain height difference is formed at last. The adoption of partial knitting technology can improve the comfort and beauty of fully formed sweater, and also provide ideas for the design development of sweater, so as to meet the personalized needs of contemporary consumers.

Key words: fully formed sweater, partial knitting, structural application, four-bed computerized flat knitting machine

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.64

Fig.1

Partial knitting"

Fig.2

Unilateral suspension and unilateral knitting"

Fig.3

Both sides suspension and middle knitting"

Fig.4

Middle suspension and both sides knitting"

Fig.5

Moving trajectory of spun at ratio of 2∶4∶3"

Fig.6

Knitting process of flat shoulder type 1"

Fig.7

Knitting process of flat shoulder type 2"

Fig.8

Knitting process of dropped shoulder"

Fig.9

Application of partial knitting on collar. (a) Knitting process of collar;(b) Knitting appearance of collar"

Fig.10

Application of partial knitting on lower hem. (a) Knitting process of slant hem; (b) Knitting appearance of slant hem; (c) Knitting process of round hem;(d) Knitting appearance of round hem"

Fig.11

Application of partial knitting on shouder. (a) Knitting ratio of 2∶4∶3; (b) Partial knitting process in proportion"

Fig.12

Application of partial knitting on flat sleeve top. (a) Parts of flat sleevetop; (b) Knitting appearance of flat sleeve top"

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[1] WANG Pan, WU Zhiming. Transverse knitting method and forming process of fully formed sweater [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(10): 73-78.
[2] . Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2017, 38(04): 61-67.
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